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Quick help with trailer hub!!!

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Old 07-12-2018, 02:55 AM
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So I'm not anal redoing my bearings yearly maxing out capacity on 3500lb axle! Yeah!
I feel better now! I go through many seals though, I don't mind knocking out races everything now and then!

Do I have to constantly repack bearings for you when I get old! When I become your relief driver All the best caij!
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Old 07-12-2018, 03:12 AM
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The grease manufactures want you to believe that their grease has better water resistance than their competitor. While some grease manufactures do have slightly better anti corrosive packages in their grease, ultimately, the oil viscosity degrades quickly in the presents of water.

So either keep the water out of your boat trailer bearings with good seals, Speedie Sleeves, Bearing Bras, etc, or frequently changing the grease, are your two options for long bearing life.

Last edited by Bamaskeetshooter; 07-12-2018 at 04:29 PM.
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Old 07-12-2018, 04:29 AM
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Originally Posted by bluewaterposer View Post
So I'm not anal redoing my bearings yearly maxing out capacity on 3500lb axle! Yeah!
I feel better now! I go through many seals though, I don't mind knocking out races everything now and then!

Do I have to constantly repack bearings for you when I get old! When I become your relief driver All the best caij!
BWP
There are two types of people: those who do bearing maintenance and those that do bearing repair. I prefer adding grease over changing bearings.
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Old 07-14-2018, 06:03 PM
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Originally Posted by cajflynn View Post


There are two types of people: those who do bearing maintenance and those that do bearing repair. I prefer adding grease over changing bearings.
always easier to purge old grease in the driveway, than rebuild on the side of the highway
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Old 07-15-2018, 05:43 AM
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Originally Posted by berrie View Post
I pushed all the old grease out with new grease, then drove 70 miles to the nearest shop.
They did a quick inspection of all 6 hubs, and i put grease in 2 more. Put 3 new rubber caps on, bought 3 more for spares, and started moving the last 400 miles.

The hub in question ran consistently 5 - 7F hotter than the others but was stable.
We just made it home without a hitch.
Thank you all so much for your quick responses and advice, they really took a lot of the stress out of it.
If I had to guess it would be a worn bearing. When is the last time the bearings and races were replaced?
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Old 07-15-2018, 05:58 AM
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Originally Posted by mikefloyd View Post
If I had to guess it would be a worn bearing. When is the last time the bearings and races were replaced?
They’ve never been changed but the trailer is only 2 years old with not all that much use. Only 3 saltwater splashes and maybe 20 freshwater.
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Old 07-15-2018, 07:46 AM
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What color was the old grease you pushed out?
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Old 07-15-2018, 08:12 AM
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Originally Posted by berrie View Post

They’ve never been changed but the trailer is only 2 years old with not all that much use. Only 3 saltwater splashes and maybe 20 freshwater.
When you changed out the old grease was there any water?

Since you didn’t report any water, or observe milky grease, or notice grease leaking then bad seals and water intrusion is not the problem. Nor would maintenance have avoided your problem. Consequently, there are 3 possible causes: the nut inside was over tightened; a brake was dragging; or a bearing is defective.

It would be a good idea to replace your hub, bearing, and seals set with a low, or no maintenance system. Any system that warrants annual repacking is a bad system and should be avoided. There is no reason to put up with it.

Bearings can outlast the life of the trailer, so absent water intrusion, if a bearing is bad during the first 2 years it is a manufacturing defect.
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Old 07-15-2018, 09:52 AM
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Originally Posted by cajflynn View Post
What color was the old grease you pushed out?
On all bearings the grease was clear red, one had a small milky spot, and on the one bearing in question the grease was nasty brown, but it had about twice as much grease as the other ones.
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Old 07-15-2018, 02:34 PM
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Nasty brown could be a sign of rust or substantial bearing wear. The color change from hub to hub makes it obvious that there is an issue there. I would replace that one before I went on another long trip.
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Old 07-17-2018, 08:17 PM
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So would you go with. ~ $75 galvanized hub or a ~ $175 stainless hub?
Trailer has stainless Kodiak brakes but galvanized hubs.
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Old 07-18-2018, 04:57 AM
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keep the hubs matching the others
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Old 07-18-2018, 05:21 AM
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Originally Posted by berrie View Post
So would you go with. ~ $75 galvanized hub or a ~ $175 stainless hub?
Trailer has stainless Kodiak brakes but galvanized hubs.
Why not remove the questionable one first and if there's no damage to the hub (which there shouldn't be), install new bearings and races and off you go. If you don't want to mess w/bearings, buy the galvy hub, then replace the bearings/races in the original hub and carry it as a spare.
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