Trailer hub/ bearing help
#21

Honestly for how little a 3500lb axle costs and considering the condition of your old hubs it's just more economical and a safer bet to just buy a whole new loaded axle ready to bolt on. Make sure your leaf springs are rusted or broken too you might as well replace them if they're bad. I also like the idea suggested above of putting fresh bearings in one of the old hubs you take off. That way you have a whole spare. You found out first hand how much of a pain trailer problems are. You aren't getting home on your own power without a spare hub if you really blow one up. Even then it's no guarantee it doesn't damage your axle so the best case scenario is to keep your hubs well maintained from the start AND carry a spare in your box of tools in the truck.
#23
Admirals Club 


Having a similar issue with a dual axle trailer - hubs/bearings are in similar condition and in need of replacing. Considering an axle swap as well, but won't do it until the spring when the boat goes back off the trailer. How was your experience replacing the axles? Pretty straightforward?
#24
Admirals Club 

Thread Starter

My axle came with spindle and hubs. I also changed springs etc. The hardest part is just holding it up while you put all the parts on the trailer. Also making sure you have every U-bolt, nut, fitting ETC. My project was slightly delayed from having to order more parts. Also make a mark, or note where the springs were in relation to the trailer. You want to put them back in the same spot. I used a galvinazed spray paint to cover the nicks from the saw. But then i couldnt see exactly where to attach the springs and axle.
#25
Admirals Club 



Current situation. Made it home on Sat and hub was smoking. Will remove it and inspect spindle as the forum suggest. I do have extra hubs if spindle is in good shape and I will check the other 3 hubs as well. Trailer is a 2012 Loadrite tandem with disk brakes.
scout11, where did you order your axle?
#27
Senior Member

#28
Admirals Club 


So it gets worst. I removed the wheel and the rotor and caliper are loose as a goose. Rotor is also rusty which leads me to believe that the brakes has not been working in a while. The opposite side rotors looks the same. Ordered 2 new Tiedown rotor hub kit and spindles.
thanks scout11, I got ur PM

Right

Left - rotor wobbles so I’m sure the bearings are busted and spindle possibly scored.
thanks scout11, I got ur PM

Right

Left - rotor wobbles so I’m sure the bearings are busted and spindle possibly scored.
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#30

Can you get an axle with spindles that have the grease passages in them?
Mine have a zerk grease gun fitting on the end of the spindles.
When you pump in the new grease the old grease comes through the hub and out around the nut.
When only new grease comes out you're done.
Having a stainless wear sleeve for the seal to mate with is much better than just having axle metal there.
In my experience, pitting of the wear surface where the seal runs is where the mayhem begins.
Mine have a zerk grease gun fitting on the end of the spindles.
When you pump in the new grease the old grease comes through the hub and out around the nut.
When only new grease comes out you're done.
Having a stainless wear sleeve for the seal to mate with is much better than just having axle metal there.
In my experience, pitting of the wear surface where the seal runs is where the mayhem begins.
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#31
Senior Member


Can you get an axle with spindles that have the grease passages in them?
Mine have a zerk grease gun fitting on the end of the spindles.
When you pump in the new grease the old grease comes through the hub and out around the nut.
When only new grease comes out you're done.
Having a stainless wear sleeve for the seal to mate with is much better than just having axle metal there.
In my experience, pitting of the wear surface where the seal runs is where the mayhem begins.
Mine have a zerk grease gun fitting on the end of the spindles.
When you pump in the new grease the old grease comes through the hub and out around the nut.
When only new grease comes out you're done.
Having a stainless wear sleeve for the seal to mate with is much better than just having axle metal there.
In my experience, pitting of the wear surface where the seal runs is where the mayhem begins.
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#32
Admirals Club 


So, with that said, New Tie Down 9.6' rotor hub kits, and 2 spindles have been ordered. (I"m pretty sure with the bearing disintegrated, the spindle is damaged) I have 2 new hubs for the other 2 wheels as well. Will replace them all in the next 2 weeks and report back. Also tires are 8 going onto 9 years old, even though there is no cracking and have good amount of thread lots have said to change them due to age. B.O.A.T but for the trailer.

Last edited by limshady88; 11-24-2020 at 06:32 AM.
#33
Senior Member


You hit the nail on the head with the hammer. Truth is apart from removing the rubber from the dust cap checking for grease, and checking to see if the brake pads take the rust off the rotor, I have NOT done a good job inspecting the trailer yearly even though I have taken it to the dealer for a NYS inspection every year except this. Lesson learned on what could have been a serious situation if only I did a better job maintaining/inspecting the trailer especially the hubs and the wheels. I have never noticed the ZERK fitting if it is one at the end of the spindle. I have just been packing grease in the grease dust cap which have fallen off. Upon removing the rotor this morning, only 2 metal bands remained in the hub, the bearings have disintegrated.
So, with that said, New Tie Down 9.6' rotor hub kits, and 2 spindles have been ordered. (I"m pretty sure with the bearing disintegrated, the spindle is damaged) I have 2 new hubs for the other 2 wheels as well. Will replace them all in the next 2 weeks and report back. Also tires are 8 going onto 9 years old, even though there is no cracking and have good amount of thread lots have said to change them due to age. B.O.A.T but for the trailer.

So, with that said, New Tie Down 9.6' rotor hub kits, and 2 spindles have been ordered. (I"m pretty sure with the bearing disintegrated, the spindle is damaged) I have 2 new hubs for the other 2 wheels as well. Will replace them all in the next 2 weeks and report back. Also tires are 8 going onto 9 years old, even though there is no cracking and have good amount of thread lots have said to change them due to age. B.O.A.T but for the trailer.

just packing grease under the rubber cap wont accomplish much, as you have discovered! i highly encourage everyone to visit a couple of YouTube videos on sure lube axels!
its easy to forget, after a long day you get the boat loaded, get home washed, put away, hopefully a couple hours of fish cleaning, and your just exhausted! you forget a simple 10-15min task of hitting each bearing with a couple pumps of grease. it happens to the best of the best. once you have to deal with that on the side of the road a couple times, you will learn real quick not to skip easy maintenance such as a grease gun!
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#34
Senior Member


may not be the same brand but the function is essentially the same!
#35
Admirals Club 


Great video Roland. At this point, I will just remove and replace all the hubs and follow up with a yearly maintenance. Just to clarify, the zerk nipple is in the spindle so grease is pumped through the spindle to he back which then pushes out the old grease out the front? Is that 1. zerk standard on all spindle? Does the Bearing buddy does the same thing or that is just to fill grease in the cap?
#36

The bearing buddy only presents grease to the outer end of the spindle and is not very effective in keeping the bearings greased.
Consider that the new grease, pumped in to a bearing buddy and then held under pressure by a spring, can only move inward as far as the existing grease will allow.
The existing grease is held in place by the seal at the back of the hub.
The zerk fitting on the end of the spindle allows the new grease to enter the rear of the hub and force the old grease outward.
Not all axles will have a zerk fitting on the spindle.
With axles that have no zerk and thus no passage to the rear of the hub, there are hubs available that have a zerk in the rear which is almost as good.
Consider that the new grease, pumped in to a bearing buddy and then held under pressure by a spring, can only move inward as far as the existing grease will allow.
The existing grease is held in place by the seal at the back of the hub.
The zerk fitting on the end of the spindle allows the new grease to enter the rear of the hub and force the old grease outward.
Not all axles will have a zerk fitting on the spindle.
With axles that have no zerk and thus no passage to the rear of the hub, there are hubs available that have a zerk in the rear which is almost as good.
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#38
Senior Member

#39
Admirals Club 

#40
Senior Member


his first pic with a very obvious blown out hub and grease that looks like mud coming out, that spindle has a zyrk fitting on it. just the same as yours has one very clear in the pic with the blown out hub!
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