CaptDan911

My Titan 2 EOH Severe duty has started to give me trouble but not in the usual way.
The pump is working but when i release the brakes it doesn't stop its cycle right away. Sometimes the pump stops and subsequently releases my brakes up to 10 seconds later.
As you can imagine this causes a ton of extra wear on my pads and rotors and with just a few mile trip to the ramp simple taps on the brakes are causing my to stop in the middle of road.

What I've done so far
-Fluids topped off, level was a bit low.
-Changed pads,
-Verified the brake-away does activate the pump
-Replaced 12V brake-away battery.
-Adjusted gain on the in cab controller to various levels to no avail. 2015 Ford F350 w/ in OEM controller.
-Tried setting the in cab controller to Electric mode instead of EOH mode.

I purchased the trailer used and it came with what appears to be a controller adapter connected via a white and blue wire in the appropriate place but it does not act any differently when the adapter is disconnected. (what do I need this black box for??)

So,

• What is this black box? do I need it even though everything was working great for years with it installed?
• Why is the pump continuing to pressure up the system after I've come off the brakes??

I've used this trailer for years without issue and this will be my first time diving into the EOH system.
Any assistance from the THT crowd/MOB will be greatly appreciated.

CaptDan911

I just found this in the google machine https://www.etrailer.com/question-104617.html .. the black box seems to be the older style ford/chevy adaptor which was discontinued by the manufacturer.. Am i correct to assume that i dont need it in the system as my truck is a 2015.


Help still needed on the delayed shutoff. Could it be air in the lines from an undetected leak not causing the pressure sensor to shut off ??

The Peddler

You should be able to remove the black box, your 2015 should recognize EOH without it.

The Peddler

Regarding the delayed shut-off, I’d suspect it’s got something to do on the truck side. Something is feeding power to the pump even after you let your foot off the truck brake. It might be a result of that black box failing? Either way, remove the black box.

When disconnected from the truck, and you activate the pump by pulling the break-away pin, does the pump shut-of right-away when you replace the pin? If-so, this would isolate the problem to the truck side. If not, the problem is on the trailer side.

What happens if you disconnect the break-away battery, and activate the brakes with the truck. Does the pump stop right away when you release truck brakes?

Keep in mind, when you remove the black box, the pump won’t activate unless the wheels of the truck are rolling. When the truck comes to a stop, electrical current to the pump should stop. (This is how it works on my 2015 Chevy anyway. Same EOH system as you have.) At a stop, you should be able to activate the pump with the manual activation lever.

The Peddler

I just read your original post again... is the pump stopping right-away, but the pressure is not releasing, or is the pump continuing to run after you release the truck brakes?

If the pump stops, but the pressure doesn't release, you may have a pinched/kinked brake line some where, or the valve/s in the pump are gummed-up? I'd try to thoroughly flush/bleed the lines.

cajflynn

You have a Brakerite 2. The diagram you posted is of a Brakerite ehb.

The little box is the adapter. It is on the ground wire and isn’t likely your issue.

cajflynn

A short to the breakaway wire might be your issue.

cajflynn

Or the smaller white box went bad.

capt_matt

The black box is a resistor that will allow the system to work with brake controllers in older Ford and Chevy trucks. Leave it in place in case the trailer is ever towed by a truck that needs the resistor. Otherwise no brakes!

It sounds to me like your brake controller might be the issue - it is what sends power to the brake pump. If the pump is running it is because the controller is sending power.

Checking the break away switch for a short is a good suggestion. And it is always possible that water or corrosion have caused a short or poor connection.

EpicWakeJump

Hmm, I'm sitting here thinking about sticking pads or calipers.

Def pulling the break away pin while not electronically connected to the truck seems like a good first step too.