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3/4 Ton or 1 ton for a 14,000 lb Boat?

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3/4 Ton or 1 ton for a 14,000 lb Boat?

Old 07-23-2020, 10:41 PM
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Default 3/4 Ton or 1 ton for a 14,000 lb Boat?

Iím looking for guidance and apologize if this has already been covered

I currently have a 5/8 ton (Nissan Titan XD) that will tow my 10,000 lbs boat/trailer with no problem. Iím considering stepping up for a bigger boat: dry weight is 10,000 and with twin DF350 Suzukis and a triple axle trailer, Iím guessing this package will weigh in at 14,000 ó- 15,000 lbs so Iíll have to step up for a bigger truck to tow it.

Meanwhile, I want to also be able to fit a cab-over camper on the truck and would prefer to stick with a 3/4 ton short-box as itís easier to find campers to fit that bed profile.

First question: are there 3/4 ton trucks out there that properly set up, could safely tow a 15,000 lb boat/trailer combo and if so, what specific truck should I be homing in on (and what questions should I be asking about tow options besides the obvious ones like whether it has a Class V hitch and air bags)

...Iíd prefer to buy used , maybe a 2016/2017 with maybe 40 - 50K miles on it, and figure Iíll have to stick with diesel.

Thanks for any other comments, Gents.



Old 07-24-2020, 03:28 AM
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2016 2500 Duramax 6.6L Turbo-Diesel V8
Max Towing 15,400 pounds
Max GVWR 10,000 pounds
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Old 07-24-2020, 06:12 AM
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Sure. Pretty much all of them are now rated for 15k or so with a diesel and I'd guess its been that way for the last 4-5 years.

Go to this link and you can find specs on anything you look at. You may have to register, but they have great info. Be sure to understand the specific configuration you're looking at, from transmission to fwd vs rwd to rear axle, etc.

www.trailerlife.com

Old 07-24-2020, 06:20 AM
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What ever your do make sure you have the right hitch. You would be surprised how many people have a truck rated at 15k and the hitch is rated at 6,500.

Honestly if it were me I would be in the 1T camp. Itís not about the engine at that point itís about the suspension
Old 07-24-2020, 06:45 AM
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Originally Posted by Lorne Greene View Post
What ever your do make sure you have the right hitch. You would be surprised how many people have a truck rated at 15k and the hitch is rated at 6,500.

Honestly if it were me I would be in the 1T camp. Itís not about the engine at that point itís about the suspension
Agreed. I was about to suggest a 1 ton SRW. I'd also suggest getting a GenY, B&W, Bulletproof hitch for example. I've seen some guys at boat ramps trailering big boats with 6,000 pound trailer/600 pounds tongue weight max hitches. That's sketchy.
Old 07-24-2020, 06:45 AM
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Good point on the hitch. For a while there you could buy a 1 ton truck rated for 12k that came with a 6500lb hitch.

I went from a 1 ton to a 3/4 ton for my 12k load because RAM rated it to handle the load. The 3/4 ton has a better ride, in part because the suspension is softer. If the manufacturer stands by the rating that's good enough for me. My RAM handles the weight way better and ride was better than the F350 I had (2008 vs 2018), because it comes with coil springs and airbag vs leaf springs on the F350.
Old 07-24-2020, 06:48 AM
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Originally Posted by Lorne Greene View Post
Itís not about the engine at that point itís about the suspension
What he said. All these modern day trucks have plenty of power and braking capability. suspension is the weak link, followed by gear ratios and tires.

3/4 ton will take care of business. 1 ton offers a little more reassurance.
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Old 07-24-2020, 06:50 AM
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Originally Posted by Supergumby5000 View Post
What he said. All these modern day trucks have plenty of power and braking capability. suspension is the weak link, followed by gear ratios and tires.

3/4 ton will take care of business. 1 ton offers a little more reassurance.
Pretty much sums it up.
Old 07-24-2020, 06:57 AM
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I have a '17 F250 with the towing and camper package, and I used to put my 3300lb camper in the bed and tow my 20ft flats boat. I added airbags to help with the side to side swaying of the camper. It drove/towed fine like that. I never tried to hook up the big boat since we were just doing weekend keys trips, but I think it would have been fine also. Ford says that my truck will do 18k from the hitch, but I think I was pretty close on payload with the camper on the back. My family grew, and so did my camper. Now we take 2 vehicles when we go camping, one towing the 37ft camper and the other pulling the boat or ATV trailer. I don't think that there is much difference between the 3/4 and 1 tons. If I had to do it again, I'd probably get the 1 ton if I could find the package that I wanted. No other reason than to just have it.
Old 07-24-2020, 07:51 AM
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Originally Posted by Supergumby5000 View Post
What he said. All these modern day trucks have plenty of power and braking capability. suspension is the weak link, followed by gear ratios and tires.

3/4 ton will take care of business. 1 ton offers a little more reassurance.
Good advice

Pick whichever brand appeals...All 3 have good options available..
Old 07-24-2020, 08:19 AM
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Originally Posted by Supergumby5000 View Post
What he said. All these modern day trucks have plenty of power and braking capability. suspension is the weak link, followed by gear ratios and tires.

3/4 ton will take care of business. 1 ton offers a little more reassurance.
Agree 100% Very little difference between the two.

Ignore opinions that push agendas. Any of the ďBig 3Ē offer good options.


Old 07-24-2020, 08:21 AM
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The way I understand it, unless a private boat is considered a recreational vehicle, there are some situations where a 3/4 ton truck could legally tow more than a 1 ton without requiring a CDL. For example, a 2500 with a GVWR of 10000lb could tow a 16000lb GVWR trailer without a CDL, but a 3500 with a 14000lb GVWR could only tow a 12000lb GVWR trailer.
Originally Posted by marketic View Post
Meanwhile, I want to also be able to fit a cab-over camper on the truck and would prefer to stick with a 3/4 ton short-box as it’s easier to find campers to fit that bed profile.
Why wouldn't you want a 1 ton short box for a slide-in camper?
Old 07-24-2020, 08:29 AM
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I appreciate the guidance. The Trailerlife site covers a lot of towing territory ...thanks for the referral on that.

It sounds like I should probably stick with a 1 ton for the bigger boat, especially with the mountain pass driving I’m stuck with once I get the boat into Canada. Meanwhile I found a guy with a Ford F350 who wants to down-size and might be interested in barter trade for my Titan XD. From what I’ve been reading, the newer truck brands all are pretty reliable these days. Going to have to do some schooling on diesel ownership in the meantime.

Regarding slide-in campers, I stick with one brand of camper and they seem to be easier to find for a short-box non-dually truck/bed configuration but yes, not much difference between 3/4 and 1 ton —-just depends on whether it’s crew cab or not for the size of the camper on the bed:
Old 07-24-2020, 08:37 AM
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Originally Posted by marketic View Post
I appreciate the guidance. The Trailerlife site covers a lot of towing territory ...thanks for the referral on that.

It sounds like I should probably stick with a 1 ton for the bigger boat, especially with the mountain pass driving Iím stuck with once I get the boat into Canada. Meanwhile I found a guy with a Ford F350 who wants to down-size and might be interested in barter trade for my Titan XD. From what Iíve been reading, the newer truck brands all are pretty reliable these days. Going to have to do some schooling on diesel ownership in the meantime.

Regarding slide-in campers, I stick with one brand of camper and they seem to be easier to find for a short-box non-dually truck/bed configuration but yes, not much difference between 3/4 and 1 ton ó-just depends on whether itís crew cab or not for the size of the camper on the bed:
Yep; itís typically only the heavier rear suspension...sometimes just an additional leaf spring...that separates a 3/4 from a 1 ton and gets you the extra rated capacity.
Old 07-24-2020, 08:53 AM
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from personal experience you should strongly consider a DRW. I went from SRW 3/4 to SRW 1 ton to DRW 450. The 450 might be overkill for you but the difference in towing 16k with DRW is night and day. I would never think about having a bed camper + 16k bumper pull on a SRW unless you like keeping your hands at 10 and 12 on the highway.

When it comes to towing there are acceptable solutions and correct solutions. My 6" lifted 3/4 ton Denali "could" have towed my boat but it shouldn't... dont rely on paper specs. I can get on the highway, set the cruise at 75 and relax... and we go through the scales at 26k all in.
Old 07-24-2020, 09:08 AM
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Originally Posted by saltydog235 View Post
Nope, this one is all new, seems I'm not the only one with a problem with this pile of shit.
8.0.3

Please kindly send over any articles on that. I am genuinely curious since I haven't heard about it. You're not the only one with a problem but there are many many many more that haven't had problems.
Old 07-24-2020, 09:37 AM
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If you are staying SRW, then there are a few considerations depending on your location.

For Ford, difference between 250 and 350 is a block in the rear and maybe a helper spring, along with a higher GVW.
Chevy I think is similar, Dodge was that way until recently I've heard the 2500 is coil in the rear also.

Does a vehicle over 10,000lbs fall under a much more expensive registration in your state, or classify as truck for the purposes of road limitations? If not then 1 ton may be the way to go.

If you look at the payload capacity of a 3/4 ton it sucks vs 1ton because it's limited to the 9,998 gvw. So you have to figure out if you're more worried about having an overloaded pickup truck with trailer tongue weight and cargo, or being pushed over the cdl territory with a GVW over 26,000 lbs.

The one question I haven't seen a definitive answer to is if a trailer over 10klbs puts you in cdl territory regardless of tow vehicle GVW.

Old 07-24-2020, 09:49 AM
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Originally Posted by kernmw10 View Post
8.0.3

Please kindly send over any articles on that. I am genuinely curious since I haven't heard about it. You're not the only one with a problem but there are many many many more that haven't had problems.
You'd have to get that information from my attorney, he's the one that brought it to my attention. I have declined to be part of it as my case is clear cut, without fault from me and I only want to be made whole on the truck and be done with all of this mess.
Old 07-24-2020, 10:02 AM
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Originally Posted by K-dawg View Post
The way I understand it, unless a private boat is considered a recreational vehicle, there are some situations where a 3/4 ton truck could legally tow more than a 1 ton without requiring a CDL. For example, a 2500 with a GVWR of 10000lb could tow a 16000lb GVWR trailer without a CDL, but a 3500 with a 14000lb GVWR could only tow a 12000lb GVWR trailer.
This is sort of correct but not totally. 26k is the max combined gross vehicle weight one could two without a cdl. But, 10k is the max one can drive a truck with without a cdl.

Youíll see lots of duallies with 10k ratings because of that. Iíve heard of lots of people getting pulled over and ticketed for driving 450ís without cdlís but never 3,500ís.

Old 07-24-2020, 10:07 AM
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Originally Posted by IcutMetl View Post
We get it. Youíre salty.

Spoiler alert- all brands have issues. Sooner or later, everyone draws the short straw.

How are your feelings answering the OPís question?
In regards to the OP's question, with an in bed Camper and towing a boat, I'd opt for a 1 ton dually diesel. The high center of gravity and weight of the camper coupled with a boat behind it would make a SRW application a challenge. Not that it wouldn't do it 99% of the time, it's that 1% that would get you and when you're talking about the kind of money these trucks cost these days, the difference in configuration is negligible. As to brand, were I to go with a diesel, RAM would be my first choice. They are cheaper and you really cannot go wrong with the Cummins though I never had a single mechanical/powertrain issue with my '17 F250. The 2020 PSD is strong as goat piss and has been a proven engine over the last 3-4 years especially but I'm leery of a fuel system pushing 36,000psi on the rails for the long term coupled with the complex turbo and emission systems. Truth be told, I'm over the diesel thing these days, way too complex, way too expensive on initial costs, fuel, maintenance and out of warranty repairs. There are some out there that run forever without an issue but you hear a lot of horror stories of a $6, 7, 8,000.00+ repair bill for emissions, turbo, fuel systems etc. Add that to the initial cost and you could drive it forever and still not recoup the investment but you get that cool turbo whine so it makes up for it. Guys like CajFlynn and other hot shot companies that tow heavy and often see a benefit, 95% of the rest do not.

Now, if a diesel was still a $3-4,000.00 upgrade and fuel was still $0.50/gal cheaper, I wouldn't bat an eye at buying another one provided they were reliable.
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