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Best trailer actuator for backing a heavy boat up a steep incline.

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Best trailer actuator for backing a heavy boat up a steep incline.

Old 05-21-2020, 07:04 PM
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Default Best trailer actuator for backing a heavy boat up a steep incline.

I have a loadmaster trailer with a titan model 10 actuator for surge breaks. No solenoid could handle the pressure of backing my 8,000 lb boat up my steep driveway. I ended up drilling and tapping my fluid reservoir and installing a bypass solenoid. Works great until boat sits all winter. Every spring it's shot and brakes lock up again. I have had enough and would like to buy a new actuator. Can anyone recommend the best one made that can hold up to this situation? One with a manual lockout would be a bonus because the titan model 10 does not even have that.
Old 05-21-2020, 07:30 PM
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The model 10 is a good actuator.

You should have a reverse solenoid already in there. You can override the brakes and activate it at any time by reversing the five wire flat plug into your 7 round, and turning on the headlights. When you turn on the headlights, the pin that activates is the one that lines up with the blue reverse wire. (You will hear the solenoid click).

I’ve used this trick to back up the hill on my driveway for years. Works perfectly.
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Old 05-22-2020, 02:11 AM
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I am aware of this. The solinoid that comes with the model 10 fails instantly. I have replaced it twice with same results. It's got to be to much pressure. Once replaced with the bypass solinoid it works correctly. However only seems to last one season. I am in New England and bot sits for 5 months over the winter. Every spring first attempt to back up the driveway it fails. I have power on the blue wire in reverse.
Old 05-22-2020, 02:33 AM
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A manual lockout of some sort would be a nice touch as well. That case when I do have a solinoid failure I don't have to block the trailer, stretch actuator out, zip tie a block to prevent actuator from being compressed.
Old 05-22-2020, 04:08 AM
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Go electric over hydraulic.
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Old 05-22-2020, 04:09 AM
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I like this one:

https://www.etrailer.com/Brake-Actua...tar/HBA16.html
Old 05-22-2020, 04:26 AM
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This. I am 9.6k loaded with a Model 10. No issues in 10 years.




Old 05-22-2020, 04:39 AM
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So you get out and close ball valve before you back up the hill every time?
Old 05-22-2020, 04:40 AM
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Thanks for all the intel
Old 05-22-2020, 05:26 AM
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Dexter has a couple in the same weight range that have a hole to put the pin in. That would work too.

Maybe consider changing brands?

I wonder if something is up with your actuator? It shouldn’t be blowing out the solenoid instantly.
Old 05-22-2020, 06:19 AM
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I use a block of wood when all else fails
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Old 05-22-2020, 08:08 AM
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Originally Posted by cajflynn View Post
Go electric over hydraulic.

This is the only way to go. With electric over hydraulic you even have brakes backing down a grade.
Old 05-22-2020, 10:11 AM
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I too vote for EOH. Makes heavy-towing much more pleasant.
Old 05-22-2020, 10:21 AM
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I used a block of aluminum. rigged away to secure it in place.
Old 05-22-2020, 10:52 AM
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I'm still kicking myself for not specifying this system when I had my trailer built.

Old 05-22-2020, 11:34 AM
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If you are changing actuators, I would only consider electric over hydraulic.
Old 05-22-2020, 04:43 PM
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Originally Posted by dbabini View Post
So you get out and close ball valve before you back up the hill every time?
Not only every hill, but every time you back up. A few things to think thru here. I am tall(13’2”), long (32’ coupler to prop), and heavy(9600 #’s). I go forward 97% of the time. I tow 342 miles twice a year. I need to know that I am locked out. If I break down, any truck can pull my boat and have brakes with lock out ability irregardless of their wiring harness. I can isolate the coupler from the brakes if needed. I can divorce the brake line from the coupler and bleed the brakes without compromising the coupler prime. The bad news is never leave the valve closed towing or not. Brake drag makes heat, fluid needs to push back into the master. If the valve is closed the heat applies more brake which makes more heat and well, it ends poorly.
Old 05-22-2020, 08:18 PM
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Can you drill the brake actuator in a spot where you can insert a push/pull pin (side to side hole in front of actuator slide). This would prevent the forward/inner part of the slide mechanism from sliding into the outer portion preventing the actuator from working......shouldn't cost more than a few bucks.

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