colemast

I've been having bearing problems since I had this trailer - help needed before I just buy (2) new axles.

I have 2420 Blazer Bay on Starline trailer with torsion axles and front brakes. When I bought the trailer I had a local company replace all tires/hubs/bearings/seals/races/etc.
On a 4 hour drive I lost a wheel and also notice that the other 3 were not tighten and had 1/4" to 3/8" play. I replaced bad hub and tightened and re-greased others. One year later I just lost another hub (different spindle).

SO here's my question:
I have the 1 3/8" x 1 1/16" 5 Lug 3500# hubs and the spindle lube with fitting at end of the spindle. I pressing on the pre-greased hub kits and placing washer (D-shaped) then the tang washer and then nut. When I start cranking down on nut I can tighten until gorilla tight and the hub still has about 1/16" or slightly less of on-off play - If I add an additional washer I can tighten til hub becomes tight - I then loosen 1/4 turn and everything feels right. I'm I using the wrong hub?

Here's what I'm using


Thanks braintrust

Fatherof4

I have just replaced both hubs for a boat I recently bought. I am by no means a hub expert. I got mine from a commercial trailer place, gave them my old hub, and they gave me 2 new ones, prepacked.

Now, in regard to the "play" I don't think it should have any. I would go the route of adding a washer, so the hub doesn't have play but can turn smooth. Then, keep an eye on it. Make sure you aren't slinging grease out, get you a infrared temp gun, and in my experience, you should be good to go. I would think the hub temp should be within 20 degrees or so of the ambient air temp. I also feel mine. Warm is fine. You will know when its too hot.

Best of luck.

billinstuart

Constant tightening means either the bearings are wearing, or the lip that holds the outer bearing race is failing.

R Days

I thought you snugged it down while spinning the tire hub assembly then loosened the castle nut until it made the next hole then put cotter pin in and left it. 1/4 turn is too loose

colemast

My spindle has no cotter pin (only the Tang washer to grab the castle nut). The only was I can tighten it all the way down is by adding an extra D-washer - it feels as though I have bottom out on the threads.

Scupperz

The axle spindle is too long for the hub. A rather common issue when mixing and matching axles and hubs. Had this issue with an old Ebko double axle trailer. I used a large, fat washer followed by a lock washer, both of which fit over the spindle. This shimed the gap between the end of the spindle threads and the outer bearing seal so the castle nut was snug to the seal.

Also, the cotter pin hole is in the axle spindle, not the hub. It's probably covered over by grease, rust or a broken cotter pin. Find it and use it to keep the castle nut from backing off. Without the cotter pin more wheels will fall off, more hubs needing replacement and the spindle will eventually be damaged requiring replacement of the axle.

colemast

Should I use (1) extra D-washers as a spacer?

Correct me if wrong - but I should have the none spinning D-Washer next to the out bearing (which would not spin)

Scupperz

Yes. Just use more washers then. You gotta shim the gap. Look for the cotter pin hole. The only reason to use a castlenut is for a cotter pin. Otherwise the nut is just going to back out and another wheel is lost.

colemast

This is what I have -(I'll just pick up more D-Washers) and hopefully eliminate problem of eating bearings.
Thanks

jwmac52

I'm not an expert but could the races possibly not be seated properly in the hub? Or the wrong bearings?

colemast

I wish I knew.
There are no marking on STarline trailer or axles. I've been told mostly standard.

as far as the races being seated - I've seated my on and use pre-lubed kits - same result. just about 1/16 - 1/32" play in in-out movement.

slickster

Setting preload is important for sure....last thing I do when repacking....if your setting is changing, something isn't set up right....

cajflynn

Sounds to me like the bearings in that hub are bad. I'd taller that hub apart and look at each bearing and race.

Milehog

I'd check everything for fit. Measure everything, take nothing for granted.
For instance, E-Z Loader put the wrong bearing in a new trailer just to get it out the door. I had a heck of a time with bearing adjustment 'till I figured it out. Another time the wrong seals came with a hub kit. You get the picture.

jeffnick

I have 2 washers on mine to get them right...

billinstuart

I've never seen one need 2 washers.

diver dave

The industry needs to pay for a German engineer to get this right. It is ridiculous to expect a zero play, zero preload to magically occur when tightening a coarse thread system when aiming for a cotter pin hole. People have even had to shave the flat washer down to make this work.

billinstuart

Mercedes used a neat clamping nut to get the preload just right. Trailers with the bendable tab, you can get pretty close.

cajflynn

These bearings need some preload.

jeffnick

Trailer is a 1972 model. Axles are original.