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Trailer Maintenance Question

Old 05-10-2019, 06:41 PM
  #21  
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No need to change the bearings , with the system you have , just pump it with grease while spinning the wheel till good looking grease comes out and done. Two year old trailer, you could just pump it clean and go. Rolling the wheel is just for good measure.
Roll on.
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Old 05-10-2019, 06:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Dacman View Post
No need to change the bearings , with the system you have , just pump it with grease while spinning the wheel till good looking grease comes out and done. Two year old trailer, you could just pump it clean and go. Rolling the wheel is just for good measure.
Roll on.
i like that option much better. The trailer itself probably hasnít seen 200 road miles in its life so hopefully the bearings are in good shape
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Old 05-10-2019, 08:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Yetiman1969 View Post


i like that option much better. The trailer itself probably hasnít seen 200 road miles in its life so hopefully the bearings are in good shape
Go to Northern Tool and buy an extra hub, they come pre-greased.
This should guarantee that it won't be needed!
And you can return it for a full refund later.
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Old 05-11-2019, 04:42 AM
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Originally Posted by plug tackle View Post
Go to Northern Tool and buy an extra hub, they come pre-greased.
This should guarantee that it won't be needed!
And you can return it for a full refund later.
Thatís a great idea. I will do that.
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Old 05-11-2019, 05:26 AM
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There are multiple issues with bearings that should be verified. Just adding grease to the hub doesn't fix everything. Jack the wheels off the ground and check for slack in the bearings, adjust when needed. If grease is milky in color,the seal has failed, you need to clean all parts and install new seal. It's a good idea to inspect the bearing for wear, if they have scaring replace them. When a bearing fails while going 60 mph, do you notice the problem before destroying the spindle, in this scenario a extra hub in no help. When I plan a trip with my friends, I leave nothing to chance. We all want to have a great time, treat your guests like they matter.
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Old 05-11-2019, 10:28 AM
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Originally Posted by plug tackle View Post
Go to Northern Tool and buy an extra hub, they come pre-greased.
This should guarantee that it won't be needed!
And you can return it for a full refund later.
But which one?

https://www.northerntool.com/shop/to...s+trailer-hubs
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Old 05-12-2019, 05:50 AM
  #27  
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Well yesterday I went down to the boat and pumped new grease into the zerk fitting. The grease that came out of the first one wasnít bad but just looked like a dirtier version of what I was putting in. The grease from the 2nd fitting had a different color. It was lighter in color and looked almost like a light graphite. There was also a little water in there but Iím not sure if thatís normal. I wish I would have thought to take a picture at the moment to post it here. I finished regreasing and looked into it after I got home. I found a description that said if the grease is a milky color it probably indicates a bad seal. I wouldnít really describe it as milky but it was a different color than the first one. Like I said more metallic looking. Bottom line is I think Iím going to just replace the bearings and seals. I just wanted to post a follow up in case this thread can help a nube like me in the future. I just wish I had a pic so you guys could weigh in as to whether or not there was actually something wrong.
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Old 05-12-2019, 09:59 AM
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if the rear seal is bad you'll see grease leaking out of the seal behind the wheel more than likely is the little round bung in the front that leaks change the grease and get a couple of bearing buddy bras over the cap that will go a long way to keep the water out
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Old 05-12-2019, 10:13 AM
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I would get a new hub for the funky grease side , and keep the old as a spare.
The hub kit will have seals , bearings and races ready to go after greasing or PACKING the bearings.
The bearings need to be packed with grease before installing. I’ll post a video.
The reason i say a new hub is,
1— you need a spare hub anyway, take it off and stick the whole thing in a zip lock bag in truck. It will pull off complete , no disassembling. Pop on the new one.
2 — water has been siting on the bearings and races for awhile ,corrosion on them and possible pitting. If you buy the rebuild parts separately, you’ll need to press in new races , not beginner easy.

If you go in the hub, resist the urge to wipe grease out of it with finger, the race edge can be razor sharp if worn. Ouch, I know this from experience. You get a nice clean cut now full of grease.

Just trying to help. I wouldn’t replace the one that grease looked good . But you can.
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Old 05-12-2019, 10:15 AM
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Old 05-12-2019, 10:24 AM
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I've found that the average Joe will meticulously maintain the boat and the trailer is usually forgotten about until they are doing 80mph on I-95 and have an issue... You're going about it right...better to be safe than sorry... When you get up here(I live 20 mins from HHI) if you have any issues pm me and I'll gladly point you in the right direction for help/assistance..
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Old 05-12-2019, 11:54 AM
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Originally Posted by Yetiman1969 View Post


If you actually read my question you’ll see that the main point of it is if it is really needed. I never said it couldn’t be done. You may have missed that part or most likely, chose to ignore it in your rush to be the first to respond with a smart-ass remark. Congratulations. You win.
the problem is no one can see inside your hub, to tell you if you have water in the grease. If you have Super Lube or Spindle Lube hubs with the rubber caps it is easy, just remove the cap and look if the grease looks milky then you have your answer (need to take it apart and inspect the bearings and races) if not then jack it up, grease the zerk fitting while spinning the wheel, if the grease comes out looking the same as new, no worries. When you spin the wheel, the bearings should feel really smooth, no roughness or noise should be felt/heard. When you try to rock the wheel, there should be either no, or just the tiniest bit of play.
For a tutorial on how to adjust bearings take a look at
www.championtrailers.com
look in the tech section,

I have the Spindle Lube hubs on my trailer (installed as part of a new axle way back in 2004) and I have not had to change the bearings yet. I replaced the inner seal a few times but that's all that was needed. A spare hub and the tools needed to change it is an excellent idea. If you have everything you need its an easy although messy (bring latex gloves & shop towels) job.

Last edited by LouC; 05-12-2019 at 12:01 PM.
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Old 05-14-2019, 04:46 AM
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Originally Posted by LouC View Post
the problem is no one can see inside your hub, to tell you if you have water in the grease. If you have Super Lube or Spindle Lube hubs with the rubber caps it is easy, just remove the cap and look if the grease looks milky then you have your answer (need to take it apart and inspect the bearings and races) if not then jack it up, grease the zerk fitting while spinning the wheel, if the grease comes out looking the same as new, no worries. When you spin the wheel, the bearings should feel really smooth, no roughness or noise should be felt/heard. When you try to rock the wheel, there should be either no, or just the tiniest bit of play.
For a tutorial on how to adjust bearings take a look at
www.championtrailers.com
look in the tech section,

I have the Spindle Lube hubs on my trailer (installed as part of a new axle way back in 2004) and I have not had to change the bearings yet. I replaced the inner seal a few times but that's all that was needed. A spare hub and the tools needed to change it is an excellent idea. If you have everything you need its an easy although messy (bring latex gloves & shop towels) job.
Yeah that’s my quandary. I jacked it up and pushed new grease through the zerk fitting. The wheel was tight and spun smoothly but the grease was a light grey color. Not like the other side I did first. I may just replace the whole hub. They aren’t that expensive and I don’t want to be doing it on the side of the road.
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Old 05-14-2019, 04:52 AM
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Originally Posted by MaddMac View Post
I've found that the average Joe will meticulously maintain the boat and the trailer is usually forgotten about until they are doing 80mph on I-95 and have an issue... You're going about it right...better to be safe than sorry... When you get up here(I live 20 mins from HHI) if you have any issues pm me and I'll gladly point you in the right direction for help/assistance..
Yup. I would be your average Joe. The boat is fun but the trailer is boring right? Youíre right that I donít want any issues on the highway so I will be better safe than sorry. I will keep your contact information handy though and appreciate your offer to help if needed. On another note if you have any fishing tips for that area I am all ears. I will be keeping the boat at Shelter Cove Marina for the week
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Old 05-14-2019, 04:53 AM
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Originally Posted by Dacman View Post
Thanks Dacman
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Old 05-14-2019, 04:55 AM
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Originally Posted by Dacman View Post
I would get a new hub for the funky grease side , and keep the old as a spare.
The hub kit will have seals , bearings and races ready to go after greasing or PACKING the bearings.
The bearings need to be packed with grease before installing. Iíll post a video.
The reason i say a new hub is,
1ó you need a spare hub anyway, take it off and stick the whole thing in a zip lock bag in truck. It will pull off complete , no disassembling. Pop on the new one.
2 ó water has been siting on the bearings and races for awhile ,corrosion on them and possible pitting. If you buy the rebuild parts separately, youíll need to press in new races , not beginner easy.

If you go in the hub, resist the urge to wipe grease out of it with finger, the race edge can be razor sharp if worn. Ouch, I know this from experience. You get a nice clean cut now full of grease.

Just trying to help. I wouldnít replace the one that grease looked good . But you can.
That sounds like a good plan. Better safe than sorry and it wonít hurt to have a spare. Thank you.
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Old 05-14-2019, 04:57 AM
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Originally Posted by vonshep View Post
if the rear seal is bad you'll see grease leaking out of the seal behind the wheel more than likely is the little round bung in the front that leaks change the grease and get a couple of bearing buddy bras over the cap that will go a long way to keep the water out
i suspect it could be it that the rubber seal is leaking. I may just replace the hub and keep a better eye on it now that I know what Iím looking for. Thanks for the advice
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Old 05-14-2019, 09:20 AM
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Change the grease and drive it 10 miles at 60 MPH then check the temperature of the hubs with your hand. If a hub is scorching hot you have problems. If it is not scorching hot then you should be good but check the temperature every 100 miles or so and add grease if hubs start to heat up. Like these guys are saying don't over pump and blow the rear seal.
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Old 05-14-2019, 01:56 PM
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if you decide to change the hub if your trailer uses a L pin instead of a cotter pin make sure you replace it with a L pin
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Old 05-14-2019, 03:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Yetiman1969 View Post


Yup. I would be your average Joe. The boat is fun but the trailer is boring right? Youíre right that I donít want any issues on the highway so I will be better safe than sorry. I will keep your contact information handy though and appreciate your offer to help if needed. On another note if you have any fishing tips for that area I am all ears. I will be keeping the boat at Shelter Cove Marina for the week
Pm me... Boat type, setup.and gear you're bringing I can give you plenty of tips just need to know what your targeting
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