Go Back  The Hull Truth - Boating and Fishing Forum > BOATING FORUMS > Trucks & Trailers
Reload this Page >

how to remove old axle bearing grease inside the bearings

Notices
Like Tree9Likes

how to remove old axle bearing grease inside the bearings

Old 04-25-2019, 06:22 AM
  #21  
Admirals Club Admiral's Club Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Tarpon Springs, FL
Posts: 7,413
Default

Not one to waste money but I would just replace both the bearings and races with a good quality set.
mikefloyd is offline  
Old 04-25-2019, 06:54 AM
  #22  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Sunny florida
Posts: 23,034
Default

Originally Posted by Bamaman View Post
Mineral spirits/paint thinner is what I've always seen used. And blow the bearing off with compressed air.
Do not spin the bearing on yer finger with compressed air..If the bearing seizes, it will hurt your finger! Blow the air thru the bearing.
billinstuart is offline  
Old 04-25-2019, 07:23 AM
  #23  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Atlanta,GA FT.Walton Bch,FL
Posts: 775
Default

Update on bearing repack.

1.the outer bearing on both hub 1 &2 look new however the inner on hub1 is discolored to black, still spins freely and there aren’t any flat spots on any of the needles.



2.inner bearing is much larger than outer the folks at trailer super store sent the wronge inners & seals the outers appear kindof the same as the old bearings see image.



3.question on tire preasure for a 2300LB vessel plus 550LB trailer plus 500LBs of other stuff for tandom trailer basically under 3500LB total

Tire size is ST185/80R13 LRD 8 PR RN Radial Trailer Tire on 13" 5 Lug Galvanized Wheel. Wheel 1 tire is 65PSI cold wheel 2 is 60 PSI cold.

Three years ago when I started w/ the new vessel I started w/ 40PSI

I could feel the load.



Second year went to 45PSI not much of an improvement then mid season stepped up to 50PSI fealt an improvement.



So should I step up to 60PSI?



4. the new spindle 1 doesn’t have a hole for a cotter pin it has a bend over the nut tab, this tab is split in the middle I only bent ˝ of the tab last year, should I have bent over the whole tab? And doe’s this locking tab need replacing ˝ is still intact?



observation on hub 1 cheap Chinese blue grease was used it’s not burnt

But greyish beige however the brake hub I used my friends GM red grease and it’s still red so I’m planning to repump can I mix my cheap chinese grease in w/ the good GM red grease.woops let me edit this the new brake hub came already packed w/ grease.



Observation 2 there seams to be a tiny nipple sticking out of spindle 1 which is a spindle w/ it’s own zerk fitting is this where the grease exits the center of spindle while pumping?

Thanks for advice STB



Last edited by Stevethebrain; 04-25-2019 at 07:47 AM.
Stevethebrain is offline  
Old 04-25-2019, 09:11 AM
  #24  
Admirals Club Admiral's Club Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Palm Beach County
Posts: 9,246
Default

Buy better grease
WPBTH is offline  
Old 04-25-2019, 07:44 PM
  #25  
Admirals Club Admiral's Club Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Arcata Ca
Posts: 806
Default

Buy quaility bearings -quility grease and no do not mix cheap grease with good grease. Since you took it apart spend the little extra on new parts and new good grease. Its a pretty ceap job all thge way around.Web search quaility bearings-buy neww races they tap right out. Put a double seal inner grease on the inside bearing once you tap in tnew races and new bearing.
this job has been written up all over the web .
Throw the old stuff away.2 pages on saving 10$???
fill your tires to rated pressure if the boat is a heavy one.
onokai is offline  
Old 04-25-2019, 07:53 PM
  #26  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Hooksett, NH
Posts: 1,624
Default

S-Can any discolored bearings and races, I’d even go with change them all
WillyC27 is offline  
Old 04-26-2019, 05:19 AM
  #27  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Sunny florida
Posts: 23,034
Default

Originally Posted by onokai View Post
Buy quaility bearings -quility grease and no do not mix cheap grease with good grease. Since you took it apart spend the little extra on new parts and new good grease. Its a pretty ceap job all thge way around.Web search quaility bearings-buy neww races they tap right out. Put a double seal inner grease on the inside bearing once you tap in tnew races and new bearing.
this job has been written up all over the web .
Throw the old stuff away.2 pages on saving 10$???
fill your tires to rated pressure if the boat is a heavy one.
I don't thinkthere are ANY "quality bearings" anymore..they are all Chinese now. I figure any bearing which hasn't failed is a good bearing, and I just inspect them and reuse them.
Stevethebrain likes this.
billinstuart is offline  
Old 04-26-2019, 05:56 AM
  #28  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2017
Posts: 1,835
Default

Originally Posted by billinstuart View Post
I don't think there are ANY "quality bearings" anymore..they are all Chinese now. I figure any bearing which hasn't failed is a good bearing, and I just inspect them and reuse them.
A lot of truth to this. As long as the bearing hasn't been damaged (rust, chips, etc) or has signs of abuse (bluing from extreme temperatures), it has "proven" itself in service and has already been de-stressed to some degree. Just replacing it with some unknown part starts you at "square 1" in reliability. There have been many reliability studies going all the way back to WWII that show that just replacing parts with "something new" does NOT improve reliability.
Stevethebrain likes this.
km1125 is offline  
Old 04-26-2019, 06:00 AM
  #29  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Deltona FL
Posts: 2,012
Default

Originally Posted by billinstuart View Post
I don't thinkthere are ANY "quality bearings" anymore..they are all Chinese now. I figure any bearing which hasn't failed is a good bearing, and I just inspect them and reuse them.
Problem is you can't see the inside race without tearing them apart.
Replace them.

Doug
rdmallory is offline  
Old 04-26-2019, 06:27 AM
  #30  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 706
Default

Originally Posted by billinstuart View Post
I don't thinkthere are ANY "quality bearings" anymore..they are all Chinese now. I figure any bearing which hasn't failed is a good bearing, and I just inspect them and reuse them.
about 5 years ago I got tired of having to replace bearings every year so I went to the local industrial bearing supply house and got a set of timken bearings and put on airtight hubs. Now all I have to do is pump a little new grease in every year and not worry about them. Oh and make sure you balance your tires if you want your bearings to last.
D_Westie is offline  
Old 04-26-2019, 06:36 AM
  #31  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Sunny florida
Posts: 23,034
Default

Originally Posted by rdmallory View Post
Problem is you can't see the inside race without tearing them apart.
Replace them.

Doug
usually, if the inner race is compromised, the rollers or outer race will show issues. I inspect them closely. I also stake the spindle so the inner race doesn't spin.
billinstuart is offline  
Old 04-26-2019, 07:46 AM
  #32  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Atlanta,GA FT.Walton Bch,FL
Posts: 775
Default

so when the inner is disscolored blackish the needles seam fine it's still toast?

willy you say S can is that throwing in the trash or throwing into a just incase spare can?

recent observation on the hub1 outer bearing there was slite discolorasion on 1/4 of the needles proballey the water (which I think is condensation) slite rust but needles appear intact just stained a little.

the received wrong bearing pn L44643 appears to have the same inside diameter as the correct size which is L44649 however L44643 it's squared off you can see the difference in image are these two bearing the same inside diameter and can I at least use the outers?

so whats the preferred grease? anyone here using white lithium. I would prefer the small tubes for my mini grease gun.

still waiting for advice on the tab washer (tang washer) the new spindle 1 doesn’t have a hole for a cotter pin it has a bend over the nut tab, this tab is split in the middle I only bent ˝ of the tab last year, should I have bent over the whole tab?

edit: I've never had these 13.5" wheels balanced excellent suggestion because one tire has serious cupping marks will post a image of tread later. finding a place that's willing to even install tires on these small rims is a PITA last time I beat the dam thing on w/ a rubber BFH was very hard even for me.
last couple times I thought it easier to just buy the tire and wheel even though I just need the tire.
also finding a serious price increase in the 80 series compared to the 70 was concidering slowly switching to 70.

like can I have 2 70s on one side and 2 80s on other?



Thanks Guys for advice STB

Last edited by Stevethebrain; 04-26-2019 at 08:01 AM.
Stevethebrain is offline  
Old 04-26-2019, 08:00 AM
  #33  
Admirals Club Admiral's Club Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Ohio (Lake Erie)
Posts: 2,334
Default

Originally Posted by Stevethebrain View Post
so when the inner is disscolored blackish the needles seam fine it's still toast?

willy you say S can is that throwing in the trash or throwing into a just incase spare can?

recent observation on the hub1 outer bearing there was slite discolorasion on 1/4 of the needles proballey the water (which I think is condensation) slite rust but needles appear intact just stained a little.

the received wrong bearing pn L44643 appears to have the same inside diameter as the correct size which is L44649 however L44643 it's squared off you can see the difference in image are these two bearing the same inside diameter and can I at least use the outers?

so whats the preferred grease? anyone here using white lithium. I would prefer the small tubes for my mini grease gun.

still waiting for advice on the tab washer (tang washer) the new spindle 1 doesn’t have a hole for a cotter pin it has a bend over the nut tab, this tab is split in the middle I only bent ˝ of the tab last year, should I have bent over the whole tab?

Thanks Guys for advice STB
The L44643 and L44649 use the same outer ring or cup. That p/n is the L44610.

Grease - Lithium based grease is the most popular. You can mix brands but you cannot mix the bases (i.e. litium base with poly urea).

Discoloration - if the color is bluish it may only be stain from the lube. A trained eye can tell. If i were you replace the cup and cone and NEVER mix the manufacturers brands (i.e. Timken and SKF)

Brands - yes there are lots of Chinese bearings out there. You best bet to find a quality bearing is through an Industrial Distributor such as Applied Industrial Technologies or Motion Industries (2 of the largest). I won't suggest a brand but anything made in the US (which are a little hard to find sometimes), Japan, or Western Europe.
Walleye Guy is offline  
Old 04-26-2019, 05:48 PM
  #34  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Hooksett, NH
Posts: 1,624
Default

Originally Posted by Stevethebrain View Post
so when the inner is disscolored blackish the needles seam fine it's still toast?

willy you say S can is that throwing in the trash or throwing into a just incase spare can
S-Can=.Shit Can.........chuckem in the trash. All bearings and races should look sparkling new after clean up or toss em.


WillyC27 is offline  
Old 04-26-2019, 11:28 PM
  #35  
Admirals Club Admiral's Club Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Arcata Ca
Posts: 806
Default

Timken bearings are quality bearings-run them down and buy them.
WillyC27 likes this.
onokai is offline  
Old 04-28-2019, 07:09 PM
  #36  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Atlanta,GA FT.Walton Bch,FL
Posts: 775
Default

Decided to get the best grease they had stepped up to the synthetic green grease.

https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/green-grease-synthetic-waterproof-high-temperature-grease-101/7070077-p?c3ch=PLA&c3nid=7070077-P&adtype=pla_with_promotion&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI4NHx 7pX04QIVCYbICh3MIguVEAQYASABEgLdHPD_BwE&gclsrc=aw. ds Thought I wanted white litium but it’s unavailable at advance auto.

In addition to greasing bearings Will it be OK to grease the following w/ GG

Hydrolic steering ram

Propshaft

Gear select linkage ect.

Or do you Guy’s use a triple type grease.



Hub 1,3 & 4 will receive the new synthetic green grease which is more white than green.



Hub 2 the hub w/ disc. Rotor builtin it’s inner will remain so will inner seal I’m forced to mix the cheap crape in w/ the red stuff this brake hub came packed in or is this red grease a high temp rated for disc brake?

Kindof reluctant to mixing the cheap crap w/ an unknown red grease I could find out from the brake Mfg. what the red stuff is.



Plan on hub1 to replace the tarnished bearing and sand down the bearings race smooth remember the slite rust spots, then reuse existing outer bearing and smooth it’s race. incorrect willl tap out race an replace



Anyway this new GG is claiming 8 times stronger they also say it’s the greatest grease you can buy it’s printed on the tube. Plus indorsed by excellent 2 Guy’s.



Thanks Guy’s for advice.STB

above I'll be on the look out for timkic meanwhile e=trailer is sending the chinese crape.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Omni-Lubr...iABEgJGafD_BwE

edit2: I hope the disc brake doesn't get over 500*heres the brake https://www.easternmarine.com/TIEDOW...es-Disc-Parts/

last line says "Always use High-Temp. Marine Bearing Grease with disc brakes due to the higher operating temperatures as compared to drum brakes"

Last edited by Stevethebrain; 04-28-2019 at 08:12 PM.
Stevethebrain is offline  
Old 04-28-2019, 07:19 PM
  #37  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Central Florida
Posts: 310
Default

Holy misspelled words
Joe Lane is offline  
Old 04-28-2019, 08:46 PM
  #38  
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2017
Posts: 23
Default

Well Steve i pulled my hub and wheel bearings yesterday and proceeded to use every rag in house and a roll of paper towels but still managed to get more grease on the driveway and myself than i should have. I sat next to the fish pond and used gasoline to clean the pieces. I also beat up one of the races and the seal was shot and the lug nuts were little balls of rust. The solution... i went to the parts store and bought an complete pre-greased unit for $55.00 bucks with lug nuts and I was finished.
Considering how much it cost to buy anything in a marine store it was money well spent. $12.50 a foot for fuel line taught me well.
HardaGround is offline  
Old 04-29-2019, 03:25 AM
  #39  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Atlanta,GA FT.Walton Bch,FL
Posts: 775
Default

you have to use a coast guard approved type fuel line it is more durable compared to automotive fuel line.last thing a boater wants is small rubber particles clogging up the fuel sys when way out to sea you want clean fuel.
so expect to pay more $. 12.50 sounds exsesively greedy on the marine guy who got you.
lesson #1 avoid any store w/ marine in it's title because they multiply the $X4.

I usalley keep a spare completely packed spare just in case hub along w/ a spare tire.now since I have purchased set of brakes I have two extra ideler hubs. so I have the option to rotate and substitute. always have a spare on the shelf I like having redundancy.

these hubs are decent marine rated hubs however why use steel studs, I'm wanting to try aluminum studs to prevent rust.

2 years ago my lugs on the used trailer where rusted on and where extremely difficult to remove that's even after spraying w/ wd40 * soak for several days it was like they where welded together.
hub 1 &2 where rusted and I was dreading seized lugs this is why I purchased the impact and the adaptor for sockets (which the size I want 1/4" is somewhat missed placed. used my 4way and it wasn't bad these are 2 year old hubs.
I use a antisieze paste on my spark plugs should I be covering the steel wheel studs w/ this currently just spray a lite layer of the cheap imitation wd40

congrates on getting greasei. on nasty grease removal now use the lava soap and rip the skin off you'r hands. buying a new perpacked hub takes all the fun out of what I refer to as the nastiest part of trailering I think it's put's things in perspective like you gotta walk though $hit to get to desirable places. I was actually thinking of getting gloves but decided there for wuss's
who all here is using the automatic greaser
STB

Last edited by Stevethebrain; 04-29-2019 at 04:02 AM.
Stevethebrain is offline  
Old 04-29-2019, 06:28 AM
  #40  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Sunny florida
Posts: 23,034
Default

Balance is easy. Forget all the spin balance stuff..jack up the wheel, make sure it spins free, spin it a couple times and see where it stops. That's the heavy spot. Tack a weight on the top and spin it again. When it stops at random, it's close enough.
billinstuart is offline  

Thread Tools
Search this Thread