Braid Questions

Old 07-06-2014, 07:01 AM
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Default Braid Questions

Wanting to switch over to braid for a few reels/applications, one being jigging.

How much leader or top shot if jigging in 100' +- of water. Seems like 4-5' of leader would be fine to still get the benefits of the braid.

Same question if switching to braid for a spinning reel and casting, bait fishing, or live bait fishing.

Seems you are eliminating the benefits of braid if using so much top shot that you never get to the braid when fishing.

School me on some braid use and applications.
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Old 07-06-2014, 08:05 AM
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Curious as well.
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Old 07-07-2014, 04:49 AM
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Old 07-07-2014, 07:39 AM
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If you use fluoro for your top shot there will still be no stretch, but I don't really get running a hundred feet of mono for a topshot. I guess it depends on the application. It would seem to me that the best reason to use braid is a lack of stretch when jigging or trying to yank an angry grouper out of some rocks.
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Old 07-07-2014, 08:20 AM
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Yes for jigging all you want is enough to get like 3 wraps of mono around the spool plus a rod length. This allows a margin of safety with the fish boat side so you can grab the line without cutting yourself, and also adds abrasion resistance to the last few feet. No need for more than that. I would think similar or even less when casting to avoid having the knot go through the guides, although a proper streamlined connection should have no problem with it. (Surf casters and distance casters commonly have a Bimini to Bristol connection traveling through guides with no problem).
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Old 07-07-2014, 09:23 AM
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The re are many applications that involve jigging and different types of structure encountered.

For general ground fishing with modest structure, like broken bottom or sudden depth changes, I like a short leader of 5 maybe 10 feet. This would include bouncing for cod, sea bass, fluke, pogies, etc. rarely need to consider a lot of leadering.

For live bait drifting, I prefer a longer mono topshot and a heavier flourocarbon leader. Up here Striper is common inshore with live bait.

For heavy structure you really need to gauge the leader to the structure for abrasion resistance. Of I am jigging a wreck a usually have at least 20' of leader. If needing flourocarbon, I will topshot with mono and use a shorter flourocarbon leader because I am cheap and flourocarbon is not.

For spin casting much is personal preference. I have some setups with braid as backing and topshot of 12# mono. Braid is only off the spool for a running fish. Some setups are braid to a short flourocarbon topshot of maybe 10' to allow for multiple lure changes without having to change my leader for that outing. For my 9 yo I use 12# mono. The mono is much more forgiving for him.

I rarely use any type of swivels inshore. Exception is when using rigs for live lining, chunking or Eeling and even for cod when using stinger rigs. I usually go to the rig with a snap swivel. The rig is essentially the leader. I always will have a section of mono or flourocarbon between the leader and the braid as I will at times be using the same reel for a different application where there is no separate rig.

While there are exceptions, the whole concern of "stretch" is often internet lore. If fishing for soft mouthed species use a softer rod and be cautious with drag. If your out after marlin, whites, sails , etc then that is a different ball game all together. I am concerned about stretch for fast running and / or areal fish as the stretch helps the angler always keep the line under tension and provides some stock absorption for lightning type strikes.

If you have other specific questions about fishing certain types of structure or species ask. There are some on this board that are accomplished for that type of species or structure. And while you wil get different opinions at times, you can usually weed through it and find the best advice.
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Old 07-07-2014, 11:08 AM
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Old 07-07-2014, 12:19 PM
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4-6 ft of mono leader. Just don't go too heavy or you lose the benefit. I use the mono mainly to save my hands when bringing fish in. You don't want to grab braid with any size fish on the business end.
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Old 07-07-2014, 05:49 PM
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Thx. Keep them coming.
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Old 07-07-2014, 07:31 PM
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Our jigging setup for jigging in 100-400 foot of water is JB 100# hollow core braid. I splice a loop into the end of the braid, I build a wind on leader of 100# fluro or 130# fluro and start with about 24 feet of Fluro. I attach the wind on leader by loop to loop to the JB 100# braid. This gives us the opportunity to keep trimming the fluro back as it gets chafed on fish. We catch big amberjacks, sharks, grouper, blackfin tuna, snapper, black sea bass and even mahi on this setup. We jig a lot at the break in 250 - 400 foot of water and there are very large fish down there that require some serious drag to turn. I have used 80# soild braid and tie a bimini twist loop in the end and then use the wind on leader. I do prefer the JB hollow core 100# braid more than other lines as I like to splice an end loop and it's the same diameter or smaller than most other 80 pound solid braids. For example we first spooled a Fin Nor Lethal 100 spinning reel with 300 yards of 80# solid braid and replaced the 80# solid braid with 310 yards of JB 100# hollow braid. That still allows enough room on the spool for the wind on leader of 24' of 100# Fluro.

On my conventional 2 speed jigging setup I am now using 100# JB hollow braid with a 24' wind on leader of 200# Fluro.

Well, that's how we do it and hope the info helps.

Big Foul HookedShark On 200# Fluro Leader - Was A Beast To Get In, Like Pulling A Door Through The Water
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Spinning Jigging Setup Hooked Up On An Amberjack
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The Little Man With His Amberjack. We drop the Jig with the 200# Fluro Wind On, Hook Up, Put The Rod In The Rod Holder And The Little Man Brings In The Fish. At 6 He Just Isn't Strong Enough To Fight An Amberjack Holding The Rod.
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Last edited by gsrsol84mm; 07-08-2014 at 09:07 AM.
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Old 07-20-2014, 06:47 PM
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I use mostly 50lb powerpro braid on all my midrange setups. Anything lighter than 50 you will run into major issues with tangling, much over 50 its like you're fishing with rope.

Increased sensitivity
Increased line capacity
Less drag in the water requiring less weight to reach depth when bottom fishing.
Less weight per yard when kite fishing therefore less wind required to keep your kite up and more lifelike action from your bait
More solid hooksets due to no stretch

Tangles lead to cutting out many yards often
Not skin friendly, like a razor blade when you have a fish smokin line out.

Must dos:
Add extra wraps to any conventional knots you would use with mono
Every 6 or 8 trips check condition of top layer may need to be removed
If tangle, do not try to pull tight on both ends, this is a recipe for disaster. try to pull the loops apart and alot of times it will untangle for you.
If a wind knot occurs in the spool pull line off and remove promptly as this will lead to much worse problems if not addressed.
Always add some length of shock leader even if it is 4 or 5 feet.

I switched to braid about 10 years ago and it is now on every setup I own. I think of braid as the four stroke of the fishing world. The technology is so much further advanced than mono is definately will make you a better angler if used properly. Exercise patience when getting started because it can be a bit frustrating until it is mastered.
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Old 07-22-2014, 06:36 PM
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Thx everyone.
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Old 07-23-2014, 01:17 PM
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When people talk about putting 100 ft or so of mono on top of their braid, they are using that reel for trolling, not bottom fishing, and they want the longer mono topshot for its stretch factor when targeting pelagic species.
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