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Anchoring Question??

Old 06-29-2014, 04:42 PM
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Default Anchoring Question??

I need some opinions. I don't anchor very often. I have a windlass on the boat. If I am fishing offshore wrecks in current and wind, is it best to use windlass if I am going to anchor in 70-100 foot if I am just checking spots especially when I don't have anyone else on board that can run the boat. Or would It be easier to get another anchor and just chunk over the bow and drift back to the structure. I just don't know if the windlass is good for continuous use as Im sure its hard on motor and batteries.
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Old 06-29-2014, 06:09 PM
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Get a wreck anchor, poly ball retrieval setup. You really don't want to risk your primary anchor hooking up near wrecks, very easy to lose it.
We fish a lot of wrecks here, and found it to be the best for us.
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Old 06-29-2014, 06:55 PM
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Originally Posted by sharktripper View Post
Get a wreck anchor, poly ball retrieval setup. You really don't want to risk your primary anchor hooking up near wrecks, very easy to lose it.
We fish a lot of wrecks here, and found it to be the best for us.
Thanks
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Old 06-30-2014, 08:05 AM
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Just checking, you aren't using the windlass to pull the boat to the anchor are you? You should drive slowly towards the anchor and use the windlass to pull the slack until you break loose.

I might be concerned about hooking the wreck and losing my primary anchor.
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Old 06-30-2014, 08:29 AM
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When I fish wrecks, I anchor up current from the wreck. When I find the wreck, I drop a marker on the up current side (I use a yellow detergent jug wrapped with line attached to a small dive weight). Then anchor and back down to the marker. I use whichever anchor the bottom requires. When I dive wrecks, I use a breakaway rigged grapple (grapnel) to hook the wreck.
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Old 06-30-2014, 10:57 AM
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Sharktripper & Keyshunter are right on point.


Get a couple of anchors to go offshore with.

One to use if you are going to set it on the wreck and one to use for all other bottoms.
You can change out the rode by using a shackle.
Here is a great article on how to set up your anchor to trip so you will never lose it.






How To Trip An Anchor


By Captain Dave Tilley


As Appeared in The Fisherman's Post



Bottom fishing can be an expensive venture if you are not careful with your ground tackle. Here is a great way to keep from losing all that expensive hardware. It is called Tripping your anchor. Let me say this first, this method of anchoring is for fishing only. This is NOT for anchoring in emergency situations.
When you are out fishing and your anchor gets Hung about the only thing you can do is pull around it and hope you get it back. This is because the anchor is being pulled by the shank. You can easily bend, break or lose your ground tackle in this situation. In order to keep from losing it, you should set it up so when the anchor gets hung you can pull it by the crown instead. How? By Tripping it.
First drill a hole in the crown of your anchor. Then take your chain (You are using chain right? ) and use a shackle to attach it to the hole you made in the crown. Now take the chain and run it up the length of the shank. Leave enough loose chain so the flukes can move freely throughout their entire range but not enough that it can tangle or get in the way of the anchor setting. Now take a stiff wire coat hanger and attach the chain to the top of the shank. Here is where you will have to experiment a little. Try to use just enough wraps to hold you anytime that the anchor is not Hung. You want the clothes hanger connection to be the weak link in the setup.

For example I use 3 wraps on my 25 Aquasport, 6 wraps on the 54 foot Gypsy and 10 wraps on the 65 foot headboat Captain Hook.
Here is how it works. Your anchor has slid all the way into the ledge you were trying to fish on. You go to pull it up but the anchor is Hung. Well it is real easy to get it back. You pull forward on the rode, just like you were using an anchor ball, in an arch. Once you are in front of the anchor, line the boat up straight on the rode and slowly apply engine pressure. The clothes hanger wraps break and now you are pulling the anchor from the bottom by the crown and out it comes. It takes about 5 minutes to put a few new wraps on and away you go to catch that next grouper. Thanks to your Tripped Anchor you still have all that expensive ground tackle and rode.
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Old 07-02-2014, 08:06 AM
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Originally Posted by jbeyo View Post
Sharktripper & Keyshunter are right on point.



Get a couple of anchors to go offshore with.


First drill a hole in the crown of your anchor. Then take your chain (You are using chain right? ) and use a shackle to attach it to the hole you made in the crown. Now take the chain and run it up the length of the shank. Leave enough loose chain so the flukes can move freely throughout their entire range but not enough that it can tangle or get in the way of the anchor setting. Now take a stiff wire coat hanger and attach the chain to the top of the shank. Here is where you will have to experiment a little. Try to use just enough wraps to hold you anytime that the anchor is not Hung. You want the clothes hanger connection to be the weak link in the setup.

.
I use both the Delta Anchor and the grapple anchor depending on conditions. My delta came with the hole at the crown and one up the shaft. I use 2 plastic cable ties instead of the wire though. I might try the coat hanger thing in the future.
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Old 07-02-2014, 02:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Polapea View Post
Just checking, you aren't using the windlass to pull the boat to the anchor are you? You should drive slowly towards the anchor and use the windlass to pull the slack until you break loose.

I might be concerned about hooking the wreck and losing my primary anchor.
.

No, I am not. I have been trying to hold the boat over the wrecks tirelessly.
I am not real familiar with the windlass type anchor winches. I am used to truck winches etc. and even when they are not under a load, they consume a lot of power. I have heard that this is not good on the motors. Just wondering if I was going to drop anchor 8-10 times in a day, if using that windlass that much was good or should I use a separate anchor and hand line.
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Old 07-02-2014, 02:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Keyshunter View Post
When I fish wrecks, I anchor up current from the wreck. When I find the wreck, I drop a marker on the up current side (I use a yellow detergent jug wrapped with line attached to a small dive weight). Then anchor and back down to the marker. I use whichever anchor the bottom requires. When I dive wrecks, I use a breakaway rigged grapple (grapnel) to hook the wreck.
The other thing is that I am fishing wrecks and bridge pilings that are scattered. All mud bottom everywhere else. I have never used a wreck anchor but I don't believe they will hold on regular bottom until it hits structure, Right?? So I would be better off using regular anchor and drifting back to wrecks to be safe? Right??
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Old 07-02-2014, 08:16 PM
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Originally Posted by 1 Last Cast View Post
.

No, I am not. I have been trying to hold the boat over the wrecks tirelessly.
I am not real familiar with the windlass type anchor winches. I am used to truck winches etc. and even when they are not under a load, they consume a lot of power. I have heard that this is not good on the motors. Just wondering if I was going to drop anchor 8-10 times in a day, if using that windlass that much was good or should I use a separate anchor and hand line.
I don't think using the windlass to pull an anchor 8 times a day is going to bother anything. Going down the windlass motor isn't being strained. Bringing it up shouldn't be a huge strain if you aren't pulling the boat to the anchor when retrieving. Certainly shouldn't be drawing any power when it's not being used.
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Old 07-03-2014, 03:27 AM
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Originally Posted by 1 Last Cast View Post
.

No, I am not. I have been trying to hold the boat over the wrecks tirelessly.
I am not real familiar with the windlass type anchor winches. I am used to truck winches etc. and even when they are not under a load, they consume a lot of power. I have heard that this is not good on the motors. Just wondering if I was going to drop anchor 8-10 times in a day, if using that windlass that much was good or should I use a separate anchor and hand line.
This is how the pros do it here in NC. Drop anchor once & "fly the anchor" the rest of the day for short moves. Using the anchor ball, short rope with a clip. Pull the anchor using the anchor ball & save your back. .... ICM
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Old 07-03-2014, 07:07 PM
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Good Idea for short runs for sure.
Thanks
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Old 07-03-2014, 08:12 PM
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My Maxwell windlass has a great free-fall function. However because I have a cuddy I often need someone down below to make sure the line doesn't tangle. I really like using and anchor ball retrieval setup but I usually pull up some slack first with the windlass (minimal to no tension on the line) and then I use the anchor ball. Works great. NozDoc out
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Old 07-05-2014, 07:21 PM
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Originally Posted by sharktripper View Post
Get a wreck anchor, poly ball retrieval setup. You really don't want to risk your primary anchor hooking up near wrecks, very easy to lose it.
We fish a lot of wrecks here, and found it to be the best for us.
This
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Old 07-07-2014, 06:37 PM
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Originally Posted by 1 Last Cast View Post
I need some opinions. I don't anchor very often. I have a windlass on the boat. If I am fishing offshore wrecks in current and wind, is it best to use windlass if I am going to anchor in 70-100 foot if I am just checking spots especially when I don't have anyone else on board that can run the boat. Or would It be easier to get another anchor and just chunk over the bow and drift back to the structure. I just don't know if the windlass is good for continuous use as Im sure its hard on motor and batteries.
How much anchor rode do you carry????

Anchoring with a scope of only 4 in 100 feet of water means 400 feet of anchor rode. Hope its not all chain,

Next if your rode is chain, the reason for not pulling your boat with the windlass is the chain wedges into the gypsy. I ripped a chain stripper off my deck doing this. The other problem is related to your batteries and that might not be a problem at all

Foggy
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Old 07-07-2014, 08:21 PM
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Originally Posted by foggysail View Post
How much anchor rode do you carry????

Anchoring with a scope of only 4 in 100 feet of water means 400 feet of anchor rode. Hope its not all chain,

Next if your rode is chain, the reason for not pulling your boat with the windlass is the chain wedges into the gypsy. I ripped a chain stripper off my deck doing this. The other problem is related to your batteries and that might not be a problem at all

Foggy
About 15 feet of chain with about 300' of rode. I just didn't figure that people used the windlass for spot hopping but just didn't know. Still trying to figure out the whole anchoring thing. I just didn't want to be that far out and using up batteries with engines only at an idle for most of the time not charging enough. Also thought a lot of use even not under a load may be hard on the windlass motor.
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Old 07-08-2014, 12:15 AM
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Use a float and stainless steel split ring and drive drive off to lift your reef anchor then hand over hand it into a fish bin ready to lower in at the next site. Quick and easy and no power drag.. Very quick to anchor at the next spot as you just lower anchor chain and rode and your already tied off at the bow.

The SS split ring makes it easy to attach to the rode or remove when ever you wish.

Used mine today in 140 ft on reef off the Gold Coast and soooo easy .

Cheers
Chimo

PS Makes solo fishing in any depth safe and easy IMHO
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Old 07-08-2014, 07:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Chimo1 View Post
Use a float and stainless steel split ring and drive drive off to lift your reef anchor then hand over hand it into a fish bin ready to lower in at the next site. Quick and easy and no power drag.. Very quick to anchor at the next spot as you just lower anchor chain and rode and your already tied off at the bow.

The SS split ring makes it easy to attach to the rode or remove when ever you wish.

Used mine today in 140 ft on reef off the Gold Coast and soooo easy .

Cheers
Chimo

PS Makes solo fishing in any depth safe and easy IMHO
Cool
Thanks so much for advice.
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Old 07-10-2014, 10:28 AM
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Originally Posted by 1 Last Cast View Post
The other thing is that I am fishing wrecks and bridge pilings that are scattered. All mud bottom everywhere else. I have never used a wreck anchor but I don't believe they will hold on regular bottom until it hits structure, Right?? So I would be better off using regular anchor and drifting back to wrecks to be safe? Right??
The wreck anchor needs to grip the structure. it will not hold on the sand. Depending on Current I can often use it to grip the structure when by myself easier then I can set the anchor on the regular bottom and drift back over the structure.

I don't have a windlass so am pulling by hand (with the anchor ball system which helps)

I fish the same as you, bridge pilings, wrecks, old barges and artificial reef stuff off the GA Atlantic Coast.
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Old 07-10-2014, 11:28 AM
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Originally Posted by sharkfighter View Post
The wreck anchor needs to grip the structure. it will not hold on the sand. Depending on Current I can often use it to grip the structure when by myself easier then I can set the anchor on the regular bottom and drift back over the structure.

I don't have a windlass so am pulling by hand (with the anchor ball system which helps)

I fish the same as you, bridge pilings, wrecks, old barges and artificial reef stuff off the GA Atlantic Coast.
Sounds good.
Thanks
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