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Outrigger set up help w/pic

Old 02-27-2011, 05:18 PM
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Default Outrigger set up help w/pic

I have gotten around to rigging my outriggers but after doing so and giving them a try today just messing around I am pretty sure something is not just right.

In this photo the black line is the short and the blue is the long. Does the long rigger line need behind the short rigger line or does it matter (i.e. the one located further aft)? I am using a double hal lock and while the placement of the lines is only mm apart, I think it has an impact.

Hopefully this question will make sense to someone out there.

This shot shows the short rigger line as the furthest back.....

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Old 02-27-2011, 06:22 PM
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Hey Quick Release,
I can't tell, but are using a single Hal Lock or double? If you are using a double, then it looks alright to me. I had a 33' center console for 17 years and mine were basically set up the same way for the first 5 years or so.

After that I took the short rigger lines off and just ran the longs. I didn't like the way the long rigger lines were rubbing against the line on my short rigger rods. It was a much easier set up. I did add a set of pancake teaser reels and ran them off of the riggers.

When the marlin bite was real good, I would just run my long riggers short right behind the teasers.

Salefish22
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Old 02-27-2011, 06:47 PM
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It is a double set up. Thanks for the input....sounds like we experienced the same type of issues, but I think it is with all CC type outrigger set ups.
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Old 02-27-2011, 06:54 PM
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Exactly what is your concern? The chafeing of the outrigger line? It looks like 400 mono, it will take alot of miles before you will ever notice any wear on the lines that hold the clips.

If your concered about the line coming off the reel, the most important thing to have is a clean drop out of the clip. You may have to fish your short rigger lines from the forward most holders, or maybe the aftermost holder... experement with rod placement.

I fish my longs out of the leaning post, shorts out the fwd gunnels, flats behind then, the trap off the sern holder, and usually a dink oppiste of the trap(paner)- from a 26 center console. Sometimes a WWB off the t top...

with the hal locks, the clip lines will be close together... just how it is.
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Old 02-27-2011, 07:08 PM
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The concern is not so much chaffing, which is expected, as it was re deploying the spread after a strike. For instance, the long rigger goes down and when it is time to re-deploy the way mine is set up it is a PIA......that is why after some thought I think changing the long rigger around may take care of this problem.
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Old 02-27-2011, 09:07 PM
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Well, in that case, I lower both clips, put the short in the long line clip, ease the drag back as I run the clip up. Once its in position, reset the ex-long as your new short. You kind of rotate the spread if you will.

BTW I fish 95% seawitch and medium ballyhoo, all wind on rigs.
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Old 02-28-2011, 12:00 PM
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Use Two single halyards on two bungees for each side. This will eliminate a lot of problems...Mark
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Old 02-28-2011, 12:06 PM
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Originally Posted by offshore3144 View Post
Use Two single halyards on two bungees for each side. This will eliminate a lot of problems...Mark
I agree. I went about bought doubles and regret it.
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Old 02-28-2011, 12:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Clear Solution View Post
Well, in that case, I lower both clips, put the short in the long line clip, ease the drag back as I run the clip up. Once its in position, reset the ex-long as your new short. You kind of rotate the spread if you will.

BTW I fish 95% seawitch and medium ballyhoo, all wind on rigs.


thats the way................ plus- I think you are a little short on your lines to make it easy to operate.The haylock should be lower on your piping for reaching benefits.And for being able to adjust the clips and the tension on them
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Old 02-28-2011, 12:16 PM
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I do not run mine through the outrigger eyes, I use blocks all the way up to the tip. Bottom triple then a double then a single on the tip. I run a long,short and teaser eye.
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Old 02-28-2011, 12:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Silver_Spur0 View Post
I do not run mine through the outrigger eyes, I use blocks all the way up to the tip. Bottom triple then a double then a single on the tip. I run a long,short and teaser eye.

I used to till I changed the line to spiderline.I like the slight bite it has , less creep and no need for halocks..........the line is like sampson braid but micro.....in size
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Old 02-28-2011, 12:58 PM
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I run both lines to the top eye. There is no dedicated long or short. Depending on lure and wind, they may only be 12" apart (the clips) when deployed.
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Old 02-28-2011, 01:18 PM
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Can you identify the lines here i.e. long, middle, short ect.

I think the red is the long, but want to clarify before i re-rig things.
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Old 02-28-2011, 01:30 PM
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Originally Posted by salefish22 View Post
Hey Quick Release,
I can't tell, but are using a single Hal Lock or double? If you are using a double, then it looks alright to me. I had a 33' center console for 17 years and mine were basically set up the same way for the first 5 years or so.

After that I took the short rigger lines off and just ran the longs. I didn't like the way the long rigger lines were rubbing against the line on my short rigger rods. It was a much easier set up. I did add a set of pancake teaser reels and ran them off of the riggers.

When the marlin bite was real good, I would just run my long riggers short right behind the teasers.

Salefish22
To avoid the rubbing rig the short rigger one eye out farther(one eye more than half way) and only pull it out half way or stightly more. It will make a belly in short outrigger line. Put it in the bottom pully and your fishing line will be out past the long rigger line. If you pull the shotrt rigger all the way to the eye your fishing line will cross the long rigger.
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Old 03-01-2011, 05:29 AM
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When re-rigging, pull all your lines and put them through the pulleys last.Have your riggers in the trolling position that you use the most.I have used crimps(when using mono), and string the crimps ,I don't crimp them until all the lines are where they need to be.In the ends of the crimps are ball bearing swivels which I attach to the clips.As you see I no longer use mono, I also use the George Poveromo line tensioner system to fine tune .You can see a tutorial on his site.I could have and should shorten the adjusting loops, but I don't have any issues so I have not shortened them.
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Old 03-01-2011, 06:23 AM
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Originally Posted by 1NO REGRETS View Post
I used to till I changed the line to spiderline.I like the slight bite it has , less creep and no need for halocks..........the line is like sampson braid but micro.....in size

Is the name of the line you use for the rigging called "spiderline"? Where did you get this line? I couldn't get anything to come up in a search. thanks chris
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Old 03-01-2011, 06:37 AM
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Originally Posted by bayrunner16 View Post
Is the name of the line you use for the rigging called "spiderline"? Where did you get this line? I couldn't get anything to come up in a search. thanks chris
here ya go,new england ropes, west, boat u.s. has it.
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Old 03-02-2011, 05:36 PM
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Been thinking about this quite a bit today. Hook hallards to your gunnel as I proposed the with picture I sent. I will try to add it here as well. This will change the angle of your rigger cords better separating them from top to bottom.

When long rigger pops and short does not you should be able to let the long back out before clipping in the rigger. Let it clear the short then snap it and pull it over the short line. Then again not really sure why this did not work in the lake other than the angle of the hallards.

Very worse case clip your short low on your t-top frame and your long high. This should help separate as well.

Not a fan of swapping short and longs. I run different baits with different leaders in those positions so that would not work for my style of fishing.
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Old 03-02-2011, 09:58 PM
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Lots of good info

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Old 03-06-2011, 09:16 AM
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I think I have a solution to your problem. Here is how we do it

Red line is short rigger rod
Blue line is long rigger rod
Green is long rigger clip
Yellow is short rigger clip


In your scenario of having the short rigger in place and adding the long rigger.

Put the short rigger rod in the t-top (red)
Pull the long rigger clip to you (green) and snap in blue line.
Let the bait run to the stern
Now pull the long (rigger green) to the tip of the rigger
The blue line will pass under the red line that is still near the stern
once in position let the blue line out to desired length. Make sure you keep an eye on it till is passes your short rigger. (Red)
Once clear of the red line you should not have any concerns of tangles

Place in gunnel holder and wait for reel to screem!

This may also work with the short rigger (red) in the center gunnel holder
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