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What pound mono leader?

Old 02-18-2011, 03:49 PM
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Default What pound mono leader?

I have 200 lb mono on my ballyhoo rigs. Is that heavy enough for wahoo?
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Old 02-18-2011, 04:12 PM
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I would scale down a bit and "wahoo proof" the rig if you really want mono. I use 100 pound Momoi Diamond on mine or straight wire. To wahoo proof, you can either run a piece of wire from the crimp to the hook and back to the crimp making a section of wire at the vidal hook point. This is done in addition to the mono leader. See picture below. This does not guarantee that you are safe and will not be cut off but it is a precaution that might save the rig. Or, you can make the hook section and about 18 inches up with wire and have a mono to wire connection with a small spro swivel. You need wire or cable in the rig when targeting wahoo. Just my opinion.
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Last edited by LR-Sportsman; 02-18-2011 at 07:04 PM. Reason: clarification
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Old 02-18-2011, 04:26 PM
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I use 200 pound leader on my marlin rigs and we catch wahoo often. As long as you don't give it any slack, I'd say you have about a 75 percent chance of boating the fish. Check out this wahoo we got Monday:
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Old 02-18-2011, 05:44 PM
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Originally Posted by rhagy1 View Post
I have 200 lb mono on my ballyhoo rigs. Is that heavy enough for wahoo?
I would say no for the most part. Wahoo will cut through mono like butter. That is not to say that you can't catch them on mono but you would be better served to use wire or cable if you want to target wahoo. If wahoo is not your target they can be nice by catch on mono if you get lucky.
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Old 02-18-2011, 06:51 PM
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#8 - #9 single strand wire.

tunas will still bite it. Good luck on getting tuna bites in clean wath #200 mono- might as well be using parachute cord imo.
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Old 02-18-2011, 07:01 PM
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I don't know, I can't get anything to bite on wire. But then again, i don't use wire that often. What about florocarbon? It's abrasion resistent? And that would work for tuna as well?
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Old 02-18-2011, 08:11 PM
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#8/8/0 sm bally #9/9/0 med bally #10/10/0 lg bally

No mono for the toothed ones

t2e
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Old 02-18-2011, 08:14 PM
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Originally Posted by SailFishQuepos View Post
I don't know, I can't get anything to bite on wire. But then again, i don't use wire that often. What about florocarbon? It's abrasion resistent? And that would work for tuna as well?
Probably has more to do with how your baits swim than the wire. How are you rigging them?
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Old 02-18-2011, 08:35 PM
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I have mostly tried wire in spanish mackeral season to save rapalas, but the mono and floro leaders will get double the hits. I wouldn't really call it rigging, I just use it like I would anything else for leader. We crimp it, no knots, but everything else similar. I've put it out a couple of times in the spread as well when we are getting lots of the school wahoos, but again, it's always the mono or floro they pick.
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Old 02-18-2011, 08:55 PM
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Originally Posted by SailFishQuepos View Post
I have mostly tried wire in spanish mackeral season to save rapalas, but the mono and floro leaders will get double the hits. I wouldn't really call it rigging, I just use it like I would anything else for leader. We crimp it, no knots, but everything else similar. I've put it out a couple of times in the spread as well when we are getting lots of the school wahoos, but again, it's always the mono or floro they pick.

Big No-No. The crimp leaves a bubble trail and creates a hard point in the wire. A Haywire is cleaner and allows the bait to swim better. If you must crimp, take a 3/4oz or 1oz egg sinker and drill it out with a step drill (AKA Unibit) so it is cone shaped inside. Use a #9 needle eye hook with #9 wire and a single barrel crimp. Rig the bally as you normally would (clean 'em and break the back first, cut off pectoral fins and punch out the eyes, break the bill) take a short piece of monell rigging wire and wire the leader to the bill and through the eye socket 3 times. Then slide the "cone shaped" egg sinker over the bill. If you use a seawitch just drop it down the leader over the egg sinker. (Also works great with a moldcraft or islander) You can paint the sinkers if you want.

What you want is the bait's head to be firmly attached to the leader and as far forward as possible. The rest of the bait should be loose and free to move.

I use 20ft of 30# mono for Spanish pulling 00# to #2 Clarkspoons on 0,1,2 planers. Had 11 fish over 7lbs in one trip last May. If they get leader shy use 30ft of Flourocarbon. Pull' em as fast as you can keep the spoons in the water on the 3 wake.

t2e
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Old 02-19-2011, 04:04 AM
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I'll have to try it. I'll let you know, thanks for the ton of information!
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Old 02-19-2011, 01:41 PM
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Originally Posted by LR-Sportsman View Post
I would scale down a bit and "wahoo proof" the rig if you really want mono. I use 100 pound Momoi Diamond on mine or straight wire. To wahoo proof, you can either run a piece of wire from the crimp to the hook and back to the crimp making a section of wire at the vidal hook point. This is done in addition to the mono leader. See picture below. This does not guarantee that you are safe and will not be cut off but it is a precaution that might save the rig. Or, you can make the hook section and about 18 inches up with wire and have a mono to wire connection with a small spro swivel. You need wire or cable in the rig when targeting wahoo. Just my opinion.

What he said.^

I think 200 is to much. You cut back on your tuna and fineky dolphin with that much line.

You can try wire but your hits will decrease. I am a fan of the above technique and understand I WILL lose some but at the end of the day will catch more than the wire guy. I may get 8 knockdowns and lose 3 but wire will get 4 knockdown and lose 1. I have caught some big wahoo on 80 to 150 size mono.

Just my $.02
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Old 02-19-2011, 01:45 PM
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Originally Posted by tango2echo View Post
Big No-No. The crimp leaves a bubble trail and creates a hard point in the wire. A Haywire is cleaner and allows the bait to swim better. If you must crimp, take a 3/4oz or 1oz egg sinker and drill it out with a step drill (AKA Unibit) so it is cone shaped inside. Use a #9 needle eye hook with #9 wire and a single barrel crimp. Rig the bally as you normally would (clean 'em and break the back first, cut off pectoral fins and punch out the eyes, break the bill) take a short piece of monell rigging wire and wire the leader to the bill and through the eye socket 3 times. Then slide the "cone shaped" egg sinker over the bill. If you use a seawitch just drop it down the leader over the egg sinker. (Also works great with a moldcraft or islander) You can paint the sinkers if you want.


t2e
You lost me here.

You talking about crimping the leader to the main line or crimping the hook on? post a picture if you have one. Sounds interesting but I am not following.

Thanks!
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Old 02-20-2011, 07:16 AM
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We had a day where we were really out looking for Dolphin...no wire on the rigs except one, 135# flouro. had six hits caught 5 on the flouro including a 63#er and lost the wire rig to a cut off....go figure.
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Old 02-20-2011, 11:06 PM
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It really depends on your baits.

If you're using BIG ballies, you can use mono and expect a poor-but-believable catch rate because you'll have less fish just totally engulf the bait and more attack it in the middle.

If you're using mediums, smalls, or dinks, you'll get cut off a LOT because they eat the whole thing in one bite, no snipping.

As far as wire vs mono, I feel like at the 200# thickness, #7-#9 wire is probably stealthier, believe it or not. I know we've caught most of our Wahoo on either #9 wire rigs or 80# mono on BIG diving plugs.

200 is just really thick and stiff. If you're after Dolphin, it really doesn't matter, they bite anyway, so do 'Hoos, but you might have a few less billfish and tuna bites. But really, maybe not. 200# is serious thick for anything but big marlin. I'd go with the wire or even cable for 99% of Wahoo fishing.
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