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How To: Yamaha F200 Water Pump Change

 
Old 04-11-2007, 02:11 PM
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Default How To: Yamaha F200 Water Pump Change

This post describes how to replace the water pump.

All parts were purchased from my friend Andy at
Shipyard Island Marine Engine
Parts.


The parts that were used are all included in the Yamaha Water Pump Kit.

SIM, thanks for the great moral support and great price on these parts!!

Thanks to TrollnHeel for taking the pictures, getting me beers, and helping
GET-R-DONE.

Thanks to THE BOAT MONKEY for his supervision and comic relief.

Be sure the engine is in neutral.

Remove the lower unit cowling. There are 6 hex bolts total. You do not have
to perform this step, but I did not want to damage the cowling.



Be sure to keep up with the "tab nuts" that may fall out of the slots in the
cowling. They are located in the 2 bottom holes on the front side of the
cowling.



Remove the rubber plug to access the trim tab bolt.





Tilt the motor up and remove the prop.



Make note of the location of the tab.



Remove the trim tab bolt.



Remove the other two bolts from under the lower unit.





Remove the other 6 bolts from the lower unit, 3 on each side.



Carefully work the unit up and down while pulling outward; the lower unit
should come free. There is no speedometer tube that you have to disconnect.



My Black and Decker Workhorse provided a stable platform to perform the
work.



Remove the 4 water pump housing bolts.



Remove the housing.



Remove the o-rings.



Remove the SS driveshaft cover. I used a large screwdriver and worked around
the cover.



Slide the plastic compression ring off.



Remove the SS impeller housing.



Remove the three SS washers. I kept them in the same order for re-install.



Remove the impeller.



Remove the woodruff key. I used an awl, worked perfectly.



Remove the SS bottom plate.



Remove the gasket.



Clean off any gasket material you see.



Blow the area clean.



Remove the old dowel pins.



Install the new dowel pins.



Install the new gasket.



Install the new bottom plate.



Install new woodruff key.



Install the new impeller. The side with the dots is up and the side with the
slashes is down. Slide it down the shaft and align the slot in the impeller
with the key. You should be able to push it all the way down with your
hands, although it may take a little effort.



Clean and re-install the SS washers.



Install the new impeller housing. It will help to put some grease around the
walls of the housing. Use one hand to bend the fins of the impeller while
you carefully push down with the other hand. Remember, the shaft turns
clockwise, so the fins need to be bent accordingly. The center of the
opening at the bottom of the housing should be pointing to about 4 o'clock
if you look at it from the prop-end of the lower unit.



Clean and re-install the plastic compression ring.



Clean and re-install the SS driveshaft cover. I used an adjustable wrench
for this. I opened up the jaws of the wrench until it would clear the
driveshaft, then let it rest on the SS cover and used a hammer to gently
bump it down.



Clean the water pump housing. I applied some grease to the slots for the
o-rings to help hold them in place.





Re-install the water pump housing. Be sure the o-rings stay in place. As you
slide the housing down, rotate the driveshaft to align the impeller housing
with the pump housing until it slides all the way down over the dowel pins.



Apply some anti-seize compound to the threads of the new bolts and install
them.



Be sure to apply some grease to the fittings for the water pump inlet and
the speedometer tube. Apply grease to the driveshaft splines and shifter
splines.



While you have the lower unit off, now is a good time to blow out the
speedometer tube. Mine had stopped working several months ago. TrollnHeel
unplugged the tube from the back of the speedometer and used the compressor
to blow out the trash.

Re-install the lower unit in the reverse order. Before you put all the bolts
back in, make sure the prop shaft turns freely to ensure that the shift rod
did not move while you were sliding the unit back on. If it does not spin
freely, or if you hear a "clicking" sound, the shift rod is out of alignment
and you will need to remove the lower unit, adjust the rod, and re-install
the lower unit. When the shift rod is in the NEUTRAL position, the prop
should spin FREELY. Be sure to apply some anti-seize compound to every bolt.

Before re-installing the prop, remove the thrust washer and inspect it for
wear, re-install it and grease the prop shaft splines.

And you are finished!!

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Old 04-11-2007, 05:57 PM
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Default RE: How To: Yamaha F200 Water Pump Change

Will a 2002 150 hpdi be done the same way? Thanks for the illustrations and info. This is a great site..
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Old 04-11-2007, 06:01 PM
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Default RE: How To: Yamaha F200 Water Pump Change

cstrickland - 4/11/2007 4:57 PM Will a 2002 150 hpdi be done the same way? Thanks for the illustrations and info. This is a great site..
They share the same WP kit Chuck.

Andy
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Old 04-15-2007, 01:26 PM
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Default Re: How To: Yamaha F200 Water Pump Change

how much different would a 250 ox66 look?

thanks for great info. i would like to change my pumps, but i don't have the confidence yet. it would have to be done outdoors, at the marina. your pics are extremely helpful.
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Old 04-15-2007, 01:33 PM
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Default Re: How To: Yamaha F200 Water Pump Change

downtown - 4/15/2007 12:26 PM how much different would a 250 ox66 look? thanks for great info. i would like to change my pumps, but i don't have the confidence yet. it would have to be done outdoors, at the marina. your pics are extremely helpful.
Downtown,

Good thing with Yamaha is that they use the same WP components on most of there larger current engines. So yes you could basically use this guide on your engines.

Andy
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Old 04-16-2007, 10:29 PM
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Default RE: How To: Yamaha F200 Water Pump Change

Excellent post!
Thanks for the time & effort on this one.
When it comes time to do my F 150's - no sweat
even though I have the factory repair manual,
it's reassuring seeing it for real rather than in black & white.
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Old 04-17-2007, 07:58 PM
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Default Re: How To: Yamaha F200 Water Pump Change

Andy-
Can you list the motors that use this lower unit?? 2004 200 HPDI?
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Old 04-17-2007, 08:02 PM
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Default Re: How To: Yamaha F200 Water Pump Change

What exactly are you after? Not sure I understand the question in relation to the thread subject. Or is this just a general question?

Andy
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Old 04-17-2007, 08:27 PM
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Default Re: How To: Yamaha F200 Water Pump Change

Perhaps I should have said..."Motors that these instructions apply to." I have my lower unit off right now for some skeg work, and will put it back on in the next day or two. I figured it might as well change the pump while its off...but I haven't done it before myself. I'd like to get it done in the next couple days soI can get it back in the water for the weekend.
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Old 04-18-2007, 12:51 PM
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Default Re: How To: Yamaha F200 Water Pump Change

fly,

These picturedwater pumpsare the exact one that is on your lower unit. Obviously thegear case is not the same part as yours but the way it is removed from the engine and re-installs is basically the same.

Andy
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Old 04-18-2007, 05:26 PM
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Default Re: How To: Yamaha F200 Water Pump Change

Sweet. Thanks!
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Old 04-19-2007, 10:54 AM
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Default Re: How To: Yamaha F200 Water Pump Change

Excellent post

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Old 04-19-2007, 11:07 AM
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Default Re: How To: Yamaha F200 Water Pump Change

Thanks for the post.

I've always wondered why new dowel pins are included. I don't bother replacing them.

I guess if one gets lost you have spares.

Don't forget the wave washers. This is easy to do. Don't ask me how I know.

Always fun to remove the LU again when you realize this.
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Old 04-19-2007, 09:54 PM
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Default RE: How To: Yamaha F200 Water Pump Change

After the water pump is replaced and its time to reinstall the lower unit what type of grease should be used on the drive shaft splines? The Yamaha manual refers to molybdenum disulfide grease but I can't seem to find it .
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Old 05-01-2007, 04:51 PM
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Default RE: How To: Yamaha F200 Water Pump Change

Man I was wishing I could find somthing like this step by step & Zasammmmmm lol here it is , I have a 2001 HPDI Yamaha the water pump just went out today while I was flushing her out on land, did you have to torque any of the bolths down and is this pretty much how I will have to do my 150. Thanks alot for your help bud
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Old 05-04-2007, 09:04 AM
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Default RE: How To: Yamaha F200 Water Pump Change

Hey Hotspot I am going to do my lower unit here in a few days I bought my parts yesterday, but how can I keep my shifting gear in the right place when I remove the lower unit is there a trick to it & if it dose get out of line how would you get it back. And is there a special AS lube you use on marine parts. And what lind of grease did you use on the shaft & housing. This looks a bit intimidating but I will give it a go. Thanks & have a blessed Day
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Old 05-04-2007, 10:56 AM
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Default Re: How To: Yamaha F200 Water Pump Change

Remember, the shaft turns clockwise, so the fins need to be bent accordingly.

If you turn fins wrong do not worry, they will flip to the correct position when the motor is started. This was told to me by a Yamaha tech, he said he got his infor from Yamaha. We tried it on mine and sure enough- no problem...
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Old 05-07-2007, 02:52 PM
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Default Re: How To: Yamaha F200 Water Pump Change

I used Green Marine Grease on the shifter splines, the drive shaft splines, and the prop shaft.

My lower unit dropped right down with little effort and went back up the same way.
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Old 05-08-2007, 10:31 PM
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Default Re: How To: Yamaha F200 Water Pump Change

Changed the impeller on 2 f150's this evening. I have only one hint to add. Using a lighter to heat the SS ring a little to get it to move a little faster. Thanks for the great instructions is was a breeze.
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Old 05-20-2007, 02:58 PM
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Default RE: How To: Yamaha F200 Water Pump Change

on removing the woodruff key...

changed out my water pump/impeller yesterday....getting the key out was a bear....I tried every method I've read about...I could not get it out.

finally, after trying everything, I decided to try a pair of tile nippers...grabbed about 3/4's of the key and rested the nippers against the shaft and .....the key came right out....

just thought I'd share this since this post & forum has been so helpful.

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