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Non-Skid recommendation - pics for CaptSam

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Non-Skid recommendation - pics for CaptSam

Old 08-30-2018, 06:16 PM
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Default Non-Skid recommendation - pics for CaptSam

CaptSam,

It is REALLY hard to get a good non-skid shot that shows how dull it is, when there is nothing to compare it to.
Here's a few. I'll try to get some more in daylight tomorrow.

I wonder where I should start with bringing this back?






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Old 08-31-2018, 12:23 PM
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Shawn,

Your right, it always looks better in pictures. Lets start with easy stuff. Those scuffs on the edge of the cap are marks where a hose has been drug over the top, or small scratches that have filled in with dirt. A quick buff will remove those, or you could clean it a light alcohol solution (this will strip the wax).

As for the non-skid, if you want to brighten it up, you can buff with a wool pad and a Rotary. Use a heavy cutting compound and work at an average speed of 1800-2200 rpms. Treat it exactly like you would other gelcoats, just make sure to clean it thoroughly when your done. Non-skid tends too hold onto compound a little better than a smooth surface. I usually wash the deck with light degreaser and a medium deck brush once I'm done.
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Old 05-19-2019, 09:56 AM
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Sorry to resurrect an old thread, but I have a McKee whose nonskid is similarly tired.

Capt. Sam, when I do the wool pad/rotary buff, does it get down into the gullets between the diamond tops, or am I only polishing the tops?

My oxidized gullets are what seem to be holding the dirt the worst.

I've watched your video on doing it with the pro polish wax and the dual action polisher. That is my plan but I'd like to compound up the nonskid (especially in the gullets) to "dechalk" it before sealing.

Any insights or tips will be appreciated.

And ShawnQ, how did your effort turn out?

Last edited by JiminAZ; 05-19-2019 at 11:36 AM.
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Old 05-20-2019, 06:53 AM
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JiminAZ,

The method would be the same as what I advised ShawnQ. The wool would get into the gullets as well as anything else. A quick tip is to hit an area from both sides of the diamond pattern. Since the rotation of the wool pad will be working one side of the diamond more than the other, switching sides and working the same area will effectively buff every part of the nonskid. If you choose to use a Dual Action Polisher, pick up the Stiff DAP Scrub Brush to work the oxidation out of the non-skid. Both methods are viable, all though I prefer the rotary method.
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Old 05-20-2019, 07:26 AM
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I didn't get to finish the whole boat, but I did a 1'x1' area to check the brush vs. wool prior to me taking it to a fiberglass shop for bottom gel-coat, etc.

The stiff brush definitely worked, but it seemed the wool worked more effectively. The issue with the wool is the non-skid really tears it up quick.
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Old 05-20-2019, 11:42 AM
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Thanks to both of you for answers. I'll experiment sometime in the next couple of weeks and report back.
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