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Pro polish

Old 04-16-2018, 01:06 PM
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Default Pro polish

Capt Sam I have a 3 year old boat. Its time for another full detail. If I use pro polish should I strip off old wax then polish it. The Gelcoat shines and has no oxidation. After pro polish I assume then I put on a coat of wax.
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Old 04-23-2018, 08:39 AM
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Originally Posted by Dale15a View Post
Capt Sam I have a 3 year old boat. Its time for another full detail. If I use pro polish should I strip off old wax then polish it. The Gelcoat shines and has no oxidation. After pro polish I assume then I put on a coat of wax.
If you haven't waxed your boat in the past 4 months, there should be no wax to strip before applying Pro Polish. Simply apply it using a Dual Action Polisher or a clean microfiber towel and buff off using another clean microfiber. Once it's applied, there is no need for wax as Pro Polish performs the same job a typical wax would. There's no snake oil, just a layer of protection that you should treat the same way as your traditional wax.
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Old 11-04-2019, 07:01 PM
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Default Pro Polish

I need to wax a new boat...I am assuming Pro Polish is the preferred product to use for a new fiberglass boat. What exactly is pro polish...Is it a synthetic wax? ceramic coating? Carnuba wax? I would like to understand more about the product.

Also, is this also ok to use on the topside non-shid as well.

Thank you.
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Old 11-05-2019, 03:41 PM
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Originally Posted by armentb View Post
I need to wax a new boat...I am assuming Pro Polish is the preferred product to use for a new fiberglass boat. What exactly is pro polish...Is it a synthetic wax? ceramic coating? Carnuba wax? I would like to understand more about the product.

Also, is this also ok to use on the topside non-shid as well.

Thank you.
Great question and I love the fact you want to know more about technical side of the product.

Pro Polish is a polymer sealant, which is essentially a synthetic wax as you described. It forms a chemical bond with the surface as opposed to a physical bond that's made by a traditional wax. It provides quality protection in an easy to work with make up, being free of talc powder and other fillers. Essentially, it's on par with the industries best in protection while taking less time and knowhow to work with. You can use it on any non-porous surfaces, so the top side nonskid will be just fine.

Protection can come in many forms, and you mentioned a couple. Let me try to cut through the marketing a little and explain what the other coatings in your line up are about. First, none are inherently bad or worse than next style, they just work in different ways.

Synthetic Waxes are the most widely used and manufactured at this point. They are reasonable to manufacture and very effective, so many have gone this route. The difference comes from manufacturing quality and the formula used.

Natural waxes and paste waxes leave good protection and a thick layer of gloss to a surface. The trade off is they are harder to work with, as a cure time must be implemented for the best protection. Carnauba falls under this category. A huge buzz word, Carnauba can ad a great gloss to the surface your working on, but it's very soft and mailable. Additionally, "real" Carnauba wax is usually reserved in its purest form for show cars, hence the popularity. Because of its delicacy, I don't usually work with it in a Marine environment.

Ceramics are cool new technology, but are not by any means user friendly at this point. They can offer great protection for a lengthy amount of time (1-4 years depending on environment, quality of product, and quality of install) but the cost is still prohibitive and the risk of messing up carries serious consequences, like fully sanding your boat to remove and try again. I'll stick with wax for DIY at the moment. It's essentially painting a layer of hard, acrylic protection to the boats surfaces.

If you have any other questions, please let me know.
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