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Suzuki Sub-Battery Cable (white wire) Question

Old 11-29-2018, 01:21 PM
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Default Suzuki Sub-Battery Cable (white wire) Question

Quick question on the Suzuki white wire. On my boat with twin DF300s I have two white wires... as I would expect. As far as I know, twins are usually rigged with the dual engine main harness.
I'm asking because a friend with DF300s just had a failure offshore with a corroded white wire at the fuse connector but he only had one white wire for his twin engines. I just happened to mention this today to another friend with a 27 Albury with twin DF300s and he just checked his boat - he also has only one white wire.
If you look at page 64 of the DF300 service manual below from the supplemental section for twin engines, single station, you see the number 5 callout on the wiring diagram next to the battery showing a single white and black wire for the sub-battery cable.
So... two questions:
1 ) Are there really two white wires in the dual engine harness and if so, where is the other white wire in that diagram? Is it just not shown?
2 ) Are some Suzuki dealers rigging twins by joning the two sub-battery cables leaving just a single white wire that needs to be on the positive battery terminal?



dual engine single station
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Old 11-29-2018, 02:07 PM
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On dual engine fly by wire suzuki's there is only 1 white wire. You can hook it up at the motor side or at the console side, both are not needed. The single white wire powers the network since it is all tied together with a single bcm and single main harness anyway.
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Old 11-29-2018, 02:34 PM
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Thanks - so the diagram is correct. That's strange... I have FBW 2016 motors and have 2 white wires.... time to do some wire tracing.
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Old 11-29-2018, 02:50 PM
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Originally Posted by fly186 View Post
Thanks - so the diagram is correct. That's strange... I have FBW 2016 motors and have 2 white wires.... time to do some wire tracing.
Its not the end of the world, but somebody didn't know any better when it was rigged. You could just unplug one and leave it in boat as a backup if the other one should ever fail, just seal it up so its not live wires bouncing around.
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Old 11-29-2018, 03:35 PM
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Thanks - this is especially interesting to me since I use the white wire(s) for my hidden kill switch as a theft deterrent. The boat is on a lift (not behind my house) so it adds a little piece of mind.
Since I have two wires I installed two hidden toggle switches. It definitely works but I've always turned both on or both off together - never tried just one on or one off but I'll do that for sure.
I'll also trace those wires back to see where they were connected.

Edit: Confirmed - I tested the kill switches - only one of the white wires is "live".

Last edited by fly186; 11-30-2018 at 04:27 PM.
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Old 06-10-2019, 12:15 PM
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I want to reopen this - I have a related question.

I am cleaning up the wiring on my boat that has 2x DF200APs and I see the white wire connections (2 at the engines and one at the harness). I do remember my previous '07 DF200s has individual white wires for each motor that was connected to their respective battery switches. I really dont like that the FBW motors have one connection to only one starting battery (I think - I havent chased the current white wire yet). I have 3 batteries (SB, P and House). Should I make sure the white wire is connected to my House battery? I can see this being an issue if my house battery drains, I cant start...
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Old 06-10-2019, 04:12 PM
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I would not attach the white wire to a house battery. That battery will have the best chance of being drained, at least it would on my boat and I have the same twin engine 3 battery setup. My white wire is attached to one of my starting batteries.

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Old 06-10-2019, 05:07 PM
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I would agree and put the white wire on a starting battery switch this way if itís strong enough to start the engine itís strong enough for ecm power. Iíve taken several calls where a customers house battery goes dead and they cannot start the motor because of this exact scenario and some had no ability to combine batteries. Engines and house should be separated as much as possible except for charging.
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Old 06-10-2019, 09:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Outboard Specialties View Post
I would agree and put the white wire on a starting battery switch this way if itís strong enough to start the engine itís strong enough for ecm power. Iíve taken several calls where a customers house battery goes dead and they cannot start the motor because of this exact scenario and some had no ability to combine batteries. Engines and house should be separated as much as possible except for charging.
Thanks for the reply. I have a BEP cluster and would have to choose one of the two. This just seems weird to me but I guess if that's how it's done... I can manually parallel my starting batteries but not my house. They get automatically paralleled with an ACR when the starting batteries are over a certain voltage (13.2 I think).
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Old 06-11-2019, 08:23 AM
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Well, if we are talking about a Blue Sea Systems ACR, and I understand their operation correctly, it does not combine batteries unless, and until, it senses a charging voltage of 13.0V or higher for a minute or two. After the charging stops and the voltage on batteries drops to 12.75V for 30 seconds the ACR disconnects them. This means that you really can't depend on an ACR to combine batteries for starting.

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Old 06-11-2019, 08:39 AM
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Originally Posted by fly186 View Post
Well, if we are talking about a Blue Sea Systems ACR, and I understand their operation correctly, it does not combine batteries unless, and until, it senses a charging voltage of 13.0V or higher for a minute or two. After the charging stops and the voltage on batteries drops to 12.75V for 30 seconds the ACR disconnects them. This means that you really can't depend on an ACR to combine batteries for starting.
I attached pictures and how it works below. Starting batteries can be combined manually. Once the starting battery reaches 13.7V, its combines that battery and the house. If the starting battery gets to 12.8V, it disconnects. Theoretically not letting it get below 12.8V. If I have the white wire attached to just one of my starting batteries, its unbalanced in my opinion. I guess I could permanently leave my starting batteries combined?




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Old 06-12-2019, 08:45 AM
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Im really struggling with this connection and how to make it clean. I have accepted that it needs to go to only of the batteries (im going with the SB). I just realized this connection has a negative on it as well. My battery switch is about 4' away from the starting batteries in the console. I have 2 AWG wire running back to my engines and they used to be connected with lugs but im cutting and splicing my battery cables directly to the engine battery cables in the bilge then heat shrinking them. I know there are 2 locations in the harness back there to attach this sub battery cable, can I use one of those and tie it into the splice I make between my 2 AWG battery cable and engine battery cable. We're looking at about (maybe) 15' of cable. Otherwise I'll HAVE to extend the sub battery cable connection.
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Old 06-12-2019, 10:42 AM
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First, I'm not a fan of making any battery cable connections in the bilge. I would avoid that at all costs if possible. Having said that, connecting the sub-battery cable there would work fine if done properly.
Good luck.
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Old 06-12-2019, 10:50 AM
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Originally Posted by fly186 View Post
First, I'm not a fan of making any battery cable connections in the bilge. I would avoid that at all costs if possible. Having said that, connecting the sub-battery cable there would work fine if done properly.
Good luck.
I agree with you but the cables aren't long enough to make it to my console. I should clarify, my bilge in huge and they are wayyy up out of the way at the rigging tube. I think a crimped butt connected is better than a lugged connection on posts, no? Was planning on crimping the sub battery wires into the butt crimp connection. I will cover it in 2 layers of heat shrink tubing that has the adhesive in it.
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Old 06-12-2019, 11:41 AM
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Best bet would be running new battery cables but aside from that, yes, a butt splice done properly with the right crimping tool and with heat shrink is probably better than lug/post connections.
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