Contura Rocker Switch Wiring Issue
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2006
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Posts: 16

Help Please. I'm trying to replace my old rocker switches (Carling V1D1 20A 12V) in a 2004 Cobia 214 boat. The replacement Contura switches work the loads, but the led indicator light will not come on. There seems to be something about the new Contura switches (V1B1) that don't like my boat panel wiring. The indicator light in the old switches work fine, but not the new Contura switches. When I set up jump wires from the new switch (pin 7 directly to 12V battery - and pin 2 directly to 12V battery +, the indicator led still will not come on----although the old switches indicator light will when I jump them). Is there some sort of "load" that needs to be in the Contura switch led circuit? The wiring diagram just shows power to pin 2, and led negative return on pin 7. Curiously, when I did the jump wires with a 9V battery I could get the Contura switch led to come on (although dimly).
Any help would be greatly appreciated. My boat is in a dry storage, and I don't have easy access. Hoping to get a better idea of what to look for on my next trip.
rjt
Any help would be greatly appreciated. My boat is in a dry storage, and I don't have easy access. Hoping to get a better idea of what to look for on my next trip.
rjt
#3
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location:
Posts: 16

The packaging says both 12V and 24V, just different max Amps (on load side). Also, since I got the led to work on a 9V battery it must be something else. I even bought a different contura switch from West Marine, and while the packaging says BEP Contura Switch 12V or 24V, the switch itself is the identical Carling Technology V1B1 as the others. But thanks for responding. I'm really puzzled, and hope not to have to take the boat in for electrical work, over a simple switch replacement. Not all my old switches are bad, but since they don't make them any more, I had to replace 8 old switches to "fix" the broken 2.
rjt
rjt
#4
Senior Member
Marine Advertiser
Join Date: May 2013
Posts: 180

Hi RJT,
Couple things here: First, Tony is right, V1B1 is 24V rated. Carling does use different parts (bulbs or LED resistors) for 12V and 24V, and I've never seen Carling themselves call rated 12V-24V. So that might be part of the problem. However, in my experience, even a 24V rated lamp will illuminate if 12V is applied.
Make sure the switch is on. Power between 7 and 2 will only make a dependent light come on, if it's turned on... maybe your V1D1 is on, and the V1B1 is off?
If it is on, then I guess you've stumbled onto a switch with a bad lamp... I mean if you've got 12V potential between terminals 7 and 3 (or 7 and 2 AND the switch is on) - then it should be working. I'd take it back to West Marine and get a new one... or better yet, save yourself a bunch of money and order the actual V1D1 from us: https://newwiremarine.com/product/on...ependent-lamp/
Couple things here: First, Tony is right, V1B1 is 24V rated. Carling does use different parts (bulbs or LED resistors) for 12V and 24V, and I've never seen Carling themselves call rated 12V-24V. So that might be part of the problem. However, in my experience, even a 24V rated lamp will illuminate if 12V is applied.
Make sure the switch is on. Power between 7 and 2 will only make a dependent light come on, if it's turned on... maybe your V1D1 is on, and the V1B1 is off?
If it is on, then I guess you've stumbled onto a switch with a bad lamp... I mean if you've got 12V potential between terminals 7 and 3 (or 7 and 2 AND the switch is on) - then it should be working. I'd take it back to West Marine and get a new one... or better yet, save yourself a bunch of money and order the actual V1D1 from us: https://newwiremarine.com/product/on...ependent-lamp/