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TTaxi TTaxi is offline

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Showing Visitor Messages 1 to 9 of 9
  1. TTaxi
    04-10-2016 12:41 PM
    racer /jsz -(... Pt 2 Then if necessary, cut off any Robnet connector at the j-box end, and easily wire it in there on top of the existing AP11 wire connections. I'd think the 7 meter cable should be plenty long enough but you decide if you need longer. If you were to replace the lower control with another AP22, you could just daisy chain between the lower control had and the upper with the Robnet cable , and just have the lower one run to the junction box.

    You'll like the AP22 much better than the AP11 due to that wonderful course correction rotary knob you can steer with.

    But I'm just a boater not an electronics expert so take this for whatever its worth.

    -S
  2. TTaxi
    04-10-2016 12:40 PM
    racerjsz /Joe- Part 1 ( reply message is too long so I am splitting in to 2 parts.)
    I've never seen a "Visitor Message " before so I'm not sure if this will allow me to reply to a non-subscriber but here goes:

    For the tower I suggest you obtain one of the AP22 control heads which pop up in the classifieds on THT and especially on ebay quite often and contact Max at MaxMarineElectronics .com or alternately try Marine Electronics of the Outer Banks ( meob.com) to find a suitable Robnet cable with Robnet connector at least at the AP22 end up top. It will screw right into one of the 2 identical Robnet jack at the back of the AP22, either one will work. The AP22 should be fully compatible with your AP11 and the junction box ( J300x or J300X). (Continued on Pt 2....)
  3. racerjsz
    04-09-2016 12:04 PM
    Hi TTaxi, I've been searching for info on my Simrad AP11 and saw your posts, You seem super knowledgeable. I'm trying to add a remote unit to my bridge. I have a completely redon 1985 36 Topaz and fish from the bridge mostly and have to yell down to have someon turn off the autopilot. Suggestions on upgradeing or where to by the 8(?)pin cable. I can find units but not the cable. My lowwer unit went out, but it was just corroded little plastic connector. I replaced before the White Marlin Tournament last year. Thanks in advance for any help! Joe 443-528-4454
  4. donniesteam
    08-04-2015 04:26 AM
    Thanks
  5. mprendergast
    06-24-2014 04:41 AM
    Thanks a lot for the great advise, I really appreciate it. Will try that at the boat tonight.
    Thanks again Mike
  6. pack31
    04-25-2014 01:59 PM
    Hi TTaxi,

    I wondered if you have more pictures of the shroud you built for noise suppression. I am absolutely convinced that this is a great way to address this problem because anytime I store my kid's 3 person float at the rear of my boat (in front of my 2 stroke) the sound from the motor is greatly reduced.

    I want to know what materials you used to make the shroud. I am a woodworker and as such have some skills but I have never really worked with fiberglass. Did you create a mold or did you adhere the fiberglass to a 1/2" plywood?

    Also, I have thought of constructing the shroud out of starboard. Any thoughts there?

    Thanks
  7. droopy
    07-13-2013 05:52 PM
    hey tt axi thanks for responding to my problem there is no leaks under the hood when pumping ball on fuel line so not sure what my problem is if you have any ideas let me know

    droopy
  8. TTaxi
    03-22-2013 12:25 AM
    Nice of you to say & glad it may have helped.
    Appreciate the kind ride offer but boy that's a long way off -Island , heh.
    Then again......, it snowed 4" here tonight on the 1st real day of spring and is still coming down !! What a difference from that rare oh so mild winter & spring here last year. Oh well.

    Calm seas-
    Sandy L.
  9. boatdave
    03-20-2013 04:16 PM
    Thanks so much for the information on the magnetic/electronic sender units. Those links were very helpful. Let me know if you find your way down to South Florida and want a ride!

    David Kendall (boatdave)

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