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Another Transducer Question

Old 03-20-2003, 05:59 PM
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Default Another Transducer Question

I've been reading and reading and reading.
Now the time has come to get some real advice, comments, and suggestions.

Ok guys, here's the story...
I have a 22ft G/W Seafarer w/twin 140 Johnson’s.
The sounder I have is a Si-Tex CVS 106 120 KHz
with a transom mount transducer installed between the outboards.
I couldn't get a reading at 11knots and above and that drove me nuts!!
So I called Grady White, Si-Tex, and a few other Marine Electrical Professionals and they all said the the ducer was in the right spot.(between the motors).
I moved it up a bit, out a bit, angled it a bit, and still the same problem.
I was getting a 6-8 degree temperature difference then the rest of the boat out in the bay. So I did a temp test on the transducer. It failed the test.

Thank God!!

I wanted to get a thru hull transducer anyway after all the reading I've been doing on them that's the only way to go.

The transducer that I need varies anywhere from $250-$100 depending on what kind of bells and whistles you want. I just need temp. I found the one for about $100. I don't think that's a bad price.

Here's my question.

I never installed a thru hull ducer in my life and I get in a cold sweat just thinking about drilling a 2" hole in the bottom of my hull.
But I know it's has to be done.
I think to myself, what if I don't drill it in the right spot? What if I go too far left or right?

Is there a sure way of knowing where to drill that all important hole?
I want to get the best performance possible from my unit so that's why I'm asking the pros here at THT.
Thanks
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Old 03-21-2003, 06:33 AM
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Default Another Transducer Question

Some of the GW boats have transducer flats moulded into hulls. I am not sure if your does or not. If you do have the little moulded area, then that's where you do it, center the stem on the flat a drill hole. I would also use a piecec of starboard or aluminum as stout back plate inside boat. If you have a hull w/o the flats, then near keel about 1/4-1/3 of boat length ahead of transom. You can either use fairing block to acommodate the angle or have ducer flush mount glassed into hull. Hope this helps..D2
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Old 03-25-2003, 04:12 AM
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Default Another Transducer Question

No, I don't have that SWEET SPOT that your referring to.
I'm still a little confused and intimidated about installing the ducer myself.
I don't think that I would have much of a problem with the installation of the transducer itself, but the fairing block seem a little complicated. Do you think you could give me a little advice on the HOW TO, to build a little confidence on the instalation/cutting the fairing block to composite the angle?
Thanks
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Old 03-25-2003, 04:27 AM
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Default Another Transducer Question

Why did you move the transom mount up? I thought the consinces was to move it down after you get the angle right.



Hawkeye
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Old 03-25-2003, 05:26 AM
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Default Another Transducer Question

quote: Why did you move the transom mount up? I thought the consinces was to move it down after you get the angle right.

Hawkeye, I moved it up, down, angled it left and right, I tried it deep and shallow, with no luck!
I have a bad duce and I tried to do anything to get it to work.
Now I just have to face the fact that I have to buy another transducer.
I just ordered one today. I didn't order the Fairing Block because I don't think I will need it. I looks like I may have enough clearance to mount it in the center of the hull. I'll just have to wait for it to come in to see if it will work without the Fairing Block.
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Old 03-25-2003, 05:59 AM
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Default Another Transducer Question

Are you looking at mounting it on keel, with it protruding below? Other wise you will almost certainly need a fairing block to get face of ducer perpendicular to sea bed. This is critical for performance. Why not get a pro to do the fairing block and install of the ducer?

I would also suggest you check out Air Mar's new tilted ducer flush mount that's just coming out, looks like a real winner for boaters. It's on their web page under what's new. I realize it may be too late since you've ordered one.
D2
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Old 03-26-2003, 05:09 AM
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Default Another Transducer Question

DSquared, Believe it or not but Airmar doesn’t make the ducer I need. I don't think so anyway. I e-mailed them several time with no response.
Anyway, I plan on mounting it in the center of the hull. There is no angle in the center so I'm assuming that there is no need for the Fairing Block. I thought that the Fairing Block is only used when you need to level out the transducer to compensate for the angle of the hull.

Say I have a 10-degree dead rise, then I need to compensate for that for the angle so the transducers sensor stays directly under the boat.

I hope I said this right.

If I'm wrong, then please explain what I'm not understanding?
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Old 03-26-2003, 05:39 AM
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Default Another Transducer Question

SM yes you said it fine. The fairing block "squares" up the face of the tranny to sea bed by compensating for hull angle. I would check with GW about location as well, and if they say yes, then go to it. It's hard to believe airmar doesn't have a tranny for your machine, wow they make almost all of the trannys out there. Good Luck, D2
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Old 03-28-2003, 05:19 PM
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Default Another Transducer Question

I just finished it today.

it wasn't bad at all really. I drilled the hole in the center of the hull, then I dry fitted the transducer to see how it would fit. It fit pretty good but I still had a slight angle. So from inside the hull I got some stainless steel washers and put them under the larger SS washer and adjusted the angle. it looked pretty good. So then I took it all apart and put 5200 on the back of the ducer. I then got a couple of center blocks and a jack. I jacked the ducer in the hole and lined it up. I had foam covering the sencer. Then I went back inside the hull and put my small washers down in some 5200. Then set my big washer on top of the little ones, more 5200.Then put the nut on, tighten it down a bit, then checked to see if the ducer was still in line. I did some adjustments to line it up, then went back and tighten it a bit more. But not too tight.
Then I put some 5200 where the ducer meets the hull.
That was it, and the job looks good if I must say so myself.

PS. I'm going to give it about another half or full turn in about 2-3 days.
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