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Trolling Motor Wiring Question

Old 06-08-2018, 01:23 PM
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Default Trolling Motor Wiring Question

Posted this over on the Boating Forum and got no responses. Maybe I will have better luck in this forum.

Putting a MK 80lb 24V Riptide Terrova on my 17’ Bulls Bay. Because of space and weight considerations under the console I’m going with three group 31 AGMs, Duracell (Deka) Marines from Sams, 105 AH, 800 CCA. Seem to be the most bang for the buck with good reviews. Too tight under the console to have to maintain flooded lead acid. Plan is to use 2 batteries for trolling motor on separate circuit and third for a combination starting and house battery.

I have separate house and cranking batteries now but that’s going away and I feel pretty good about the new AGM battery handling cranking and electronics both. (115 Yamaha/standard electronics). But, if I did need a jump I was initially planning on using jumper cables off trolling motor batteries. Then I started wondering if I could use my already installed 1/2/all perko switch for that purpose instead. Thought was to connect starting/house battery to position 1 on switch and run 2 position positive to low side battery and connect negative to negative between cranking and low side battery, putting them in parallel, (cranking and low side trolling motor battery). Would leave switch in 1 position all the time unless I did need a boost to get cranked and then I could unplug trolling motor and flip switch to 2 or all.

Any reason this wouldn’t work instead of carrying jumper cables? I already have too much stuff to haul around as is. As long as I leave switch on position 1 aren’t my trolling motor batteries still on a separate circuit as recommended? If my switch is on 2 or all, am I still only sending 12V out the common? For sure I don't want to send 24 down it and fry everything.

Thanks for any insight or input.
Old 06-08-2018, 03:14 PM
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I had an emergency crossover switch on my Sheaffer. It come off the 36v trolling motor circuit and was a 12v feed to supply motor. Was a simple on/off. I never used it though. If you come off of one of the batteries and use a meter to confirm 12v I don’t see the issue.

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