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Power drain/use onboard

Old 09-03-2017, 05:19 AM
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Default Power drain/use onboard

On my 2025 8 units of all brands on board at different locations on the boat. Of course can't turn them all on at one time. Yesterday trolling lead core for walleyes realized how quickly the battery drain can be. Using brand new gel batteries and running a Yamaha 115 with a strong charging system

Started with these units on and in use of course with a live well pump going off and on to keep caught fish alive

HB 1159 for mapping, Lowrance HDS 9 for the depth, Lowrance HDS 7 so my partner could monitor his depth.Worked fine all day with the 115 providing a charge, lowest the voltage went was 10.9 and stayed at 11.5, when we moved spots at top end the battery jumped to 12.4

Then turned on my HDS 12 and panoptix down view, the transducers on the panoptix system of course take a power drain too. Worked well for a little over an hour and then the Gen 3 12 started to flicker and the panoptix locked up telling too much draw on the batteries.

Went back to three units and functioned well...

Know too much battery drain and it is when a sonar hub and a structure scan 3d.

Not planning to change the system, guess called yesterday gaining knowledge to system capability. But love being able to use the units for a certain fish situation
Old 09-03-2017, 06:18 AM
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Originally Posted by treeguyus View Post
Worked fine all day with the 115 providing a charge, lowest the voltage went was 10.9 and stayed at 11.5, when we moved spots at top end the battery jumped to 12.4
Personally, I would not consider a continuous state of battery discharge to be "fine"

Nor would I describe those voltages as the result of "a strong charging system".
Old 09-03-2017, 06:24 AM
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Originally Posted by Fwpratt View Post
Personally, I would not consider a continuous state of battery discharge to be "fine"

Nor would I describe those voltages as the result of "a strong charging system".
Agree with you. Thinking I need to enlarge the main line to the buse block. As a starter.

6 or 8 gauge what do you recommend

As far as the charging system when running at high speed the voltage went up to the battery as far as I could see input.

FW appreciate your points and why I posted for input

Thanks
Old 09-03-2017, 06:35 AM
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May want to add another battery. This will not help the fact that you are drawing more amps than engine alternator can provide, but will allow you to do it longer.
Old 09-03-2017, 06:44 AM
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Originally Posted by Corndog38 View Post
May want to add another battery. This will not help the fact that you are drawing more amps than engine alternator can provide, but will allow you to do it longer.
Good point, am thinking increase the size of the wire going to the buss block lst.

thanks
Old 09-03-2017, 06:54 AM
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Your volt reading can be affected by where your meter is connected; so could be seeing significant voltage drop.

But measured at the battery (or elsewhere, with large enough conductors) if you are not seeing >12.8 you are discharging, not charging.

The engine generated current, to the battery, should not have significant voltage drop, given the size of those cables.

What model 115?
Old 09-03-2017, 07:15 AM
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Engine at idle or near idle speed won't make too many amps regardless of model. My Cummins 450 has a 100amp alt and at 600-700rpm all I can suck off of it is about 20amps before I see batt volts drop below 13. Kick it up to 900 and volts go back up to 13.8.

Heavier leads can make a difference too. If you wonder if there is a volt drop, turn all your stuff on and measure volt drop from batt terminal pos to buss pos, and do the same from batt term neg to buss neg. That will tell you for sure.
Old 09-03-2017, 08:04 AM
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Originally Posted by treeguyus View Post
Started with these units on and in use of course with a live well pump...
HB 1159 for mapping, Lowrance HDS 9 for the depth, Lowrance HDS 7... when we moved spots at top end the battery jumped to 12.4
Assuming ~5 amps for the pump, the three MFDs combined about 4 amps -
the alternator should handle that even at idle - certainly at "top end".

But its possible that the battery is actually being charged,

and the volt values seen are just due to drop between the battery and busses - power, ground, or both.

Corroded connections, undersized wire, wire corroded beneath the insulation...
Old 09-04-2017, 01:47 PM
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Thanks to everyone that responded...appreciate the time to help out and point out a few things. Problem resolved, now have 12.1 to 12.3 voltages on all units. What I did was the Garmin 1040 and Lowrance 12 Gen 3 that read 10.1 and at times lower. Put in a fused switched wires direct from the battery to the MFDs.

Battery drop came out of the buss terminal block about 2 amps

All is well....I hope...again many thanks to all of you
Old 09-04-2017, 02:48 PM
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Originally Posted by treeguyus View Post
now have 12.1 to 12.3 voltages on all units.
that's a huge improvement, and if its with the engine off, not a terrible voltage drop.

But when the engine is running, you should see a charging voltage: over 13V
Old 09-04-2017, 02:54 PM
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thanks FW, went with 12 gauge wire should I of of gone to 10

Am so impressed with the help I get from this site
Old 09-04-2017, 03:44 PM
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the electronics don't mind running on ~12 volts - so no need to change anything for them.

You do want to be confident your engine charging system is working -
but you can just check that, at the battery, with a test meter
Old 09-04-2017, 03:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Fwpratt View Post
the electronics don't mind running on ~12 volts - so no need to change anything for them.

You do want to be confident your engine charging system is working -
but you can just check that, at the battery, with a test meter
Will do next time out...thanks

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