Notices
Marine Electronics Forum

Garmin 7610 wont power up

Old 08-18-2017, 10:55 AM
  #1  
Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jun 2017
Posts: 95
Likes: 0
Received 6 Likes on 5 Posts
Default Garmin 7610 wont power up

Alright so ive got solid voltage going from the batteries to the 2 fuses. But i still cant seem to get the unit to turn on. Fuses are good. Had the unit flicker off on me a few weeks ago and now it wont turn on at all. Not sure how to check power cable for power since its a pin style connector.

Thanks for any help
Old 08-18-2017, 11:43 AM
  #2  
Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jun 2017
Posts: 95
Likes: 0
Received 6 Likes on 5 Posts
Default

Update: figured out how to test voltage. Got 12.5 which should be plenty. Talked with garmin support and they said to check amperage. Well when i switch my multimeter to amperage mode i get nothing. However i get the same result when i test my functional unit. They are saying its going to be a $500 repair if voltage and amperage are good going to the unit. Any suggestions?!
Old 08-18-2017, 12:07 PM
  #3  
Senior MemberCaptains Club Member
 
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Houston
Posts: 525
Received 9 Likes on 7 Posts
Default

Please let me know what you learn. Randomly 2 weeks ago my unit 7612vsx started looking up on the screen. Power it off and then it will not start back for 15-30mins. Almost feels hot when it locks up (under a tee-top so shouldn't be an issue).

After 30mins powers right back on with no problem.
Old 08-18-2017, 12:09 PM
  #4  
Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jun 2017
Posts: 95
Likes: 0
Received 6 Likes on 5 Posts
Default

I wish mine would power back up after 30 mins. Original owner said he never had an issue with the unit. When the problem first started i was on the river. Wasnt a whole bunch of beating and banging to knock a wire loose
Old 08-18-2017, 12:11 PM
  #5  
Admirals Club Admiral's Club Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Vero Beach, FL
Posts: 7,514
Received 1,560 Likes on 830 Posts
Default

To test voltaage, youe leads are across pos and neg. To test amps,you disconnect the pos fuseand bridge where the fuse would be with your meter leads.

By the way, youshould only have one fuse to the 7610
Old 08-18-2017, 12:33 PM
  #6  
Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jun 2017
Posts: 95
Likes: 0
Received 6 Likes on 5 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by airbrush View Post
To test voltaage, youe leads are across pos and neg. To test amps,you disconnect the pos fuseand bridge where the fuse would be with your meter leads.

By the way, youshould only have one fuse to the 7610
Well ive got 2 fuses going to the network hub. One 3A for the power and one 6A for something else idk what. Either way, now i dont have any voltage on the power cable to the unit. Still have voltage at the 3A fuse. Fuse still in tact. Sounds like a hub issue to me now right?
Old 08-18-2017, 12:58 PM
  #7  
Joe
Senior MemberCaptains Club Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Libertalia
Posts: 17,413
Received 1,402 Likes on 793 Posts
Default

Why not eliminate the inline fuses and wire directly to a fuse block?
Old 08-18-2017, 02:18 PM
  #8  
Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jun 2017
Posts: 95
Likes: 0
Received 6 Likes on 5 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by Joe View Post
Why not eliminate the inline fuses and wire directly to a fuse block?
Ill probably try than in the am when i get off work. Didnt really feel like messing with a bunch of wires and fuses before work tonight
Old 08-18-2017, 04:55 PM
  #9  
Admirals Club Admiral's Club Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Stapleton, AL
Posts: 3,457
Received 1,416 Likes on 759 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by PackinDown View Post
Well ive got 2 fuses going to the network hub. One 3A for the power and one 6A for something else idk what. Either way, now i dont have any voltage on the power cable to the unit. Still have voltage at the 3A fuse. Fuse still in tact. Sounds like a hub issue to me now right?
Yes, you have problems. Not sure exactly what you mean by network hub?

Basically the ideal setup would be 2 big wires (pos and neg 8-10ga depending on distance from fuse bock to battery) going from battery to a blue sea 5026 fuse block. then cut the inline fuse off of the wire from the garmin. Hook both pos and neg wires from garmin to the fuse block. That is how it should wired. Never, ever, ever use in-line fuses for anything. Wire all of your electronics to a fuse block. Makes trouble shooting a breeze.
Old 08-18-2017, 08:33 PM
  #10  
Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jun 2017
Posts: 95
Likes: 0
Received 6 Likes on 5 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by mdees88 View Post
Yes, you have problems. Not sure exactly what you mean by network hub?

Basically the ideal setup would be 2 big wires (pos and neg 8-10ga depending on distance from fuse bock to battery) going from battery to a blue sea 5026 fuse block. then cut the inline fuse off of the wire from the garmin. Hook both pos and neg wires from garmin to the fuse block. That is how it should wired. Never, ever, ever use in-line fuses for anything. Wire all of your electronics to a fuse block. Makes trouble shooting a breeze.


In the first image on page 4 of the manual found here: http://static.garmin.com/pumac/GPSMA...Install_EN.pdf is how you are referencing I believe. Now this says that the power should be routed through the ignition or a switch to keep the unit from draining the battery. As it sits now the power cable is routed through the horn on the main switch panel, which then feeds the fuse coming out of the NEMA 2000 power cable. I have one switch on the panel that does not seem to be working, but I don't believe it is hooked up to anything. I have power on all the switches except that one. Is it possible that this switch is keeping the unit from powering up? Should I still route the power through a switch before going to the battery as shown in the display or is the battery drain thing a myth? Should be relatively easy to route the current power cable coming from the switch panel, through a fuse block, and connect to the NEMA 2000 cable going to the hub (black T shaped thing in the image on the manual).


Thanks for all y'all's help with this, maybe I'll get it working before the weekend is out.
Old 08-18-2017, 08:56 PM
  #11  
Admirals Club Admiral's Club Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Stapleton, AL
Posts: 3,457
Received 1,416 Likes on 759 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by PackinDown View Post
In the first image on page 4 of the manual found here: http://static.garmin.com/pumac/GPSMA...Install_EN.pdf is how you are referencing I believe. Now this says that the power should be routed through the ignition or a switch to keep the unit from draining the battery. As it sits now the power cable is routed through the horn on the main switch panel, which then feeds the fuse coming out of the NEMA 2000 power cable. I have one switch on the panel that does not seem to be working, but I don't believe it is hooked up to anything. I have power on all the switches except that one. Is it possible that this switch is keeping the unit from powering up? Should I still route the power through a switch before going to the battery as shown in the display or is the battery drain thing a myth? Should be relatively easy to route the current power cable coming from the switch panel, through a fuse block, and connect to the NEMA 2000 cable going to the hub (black T shaped thing in the image on the manual).


Thanks for all y'all's help with this, maybe I'll get it working before the weekend is out.
okay that is the nema 2000 backbone in the pic. It has its own power wires that are separate from the 7610s power wires. Yeah kind of a bush league wire job on your 7610. Stealing power from a switch (horn) is VERY common but its a piss poor practice.

If you wire in a fuse panel like I mentioned earlier. You will need to add a battery switch (blue sea 5511e is a great one... way better than a 1-2-both switch... if you use a house battery). I didn't see anywhere in the install instructions where it said you need to wire the garmin through a switch. it will have a parasitic drain though. The battery switch is what kills power to your garmin... and all the electronics you have wired to the fuse panel (vhf, radio, etc.). Neither the 7610 or the nema 2000 backbone should be wired to a switch or steal power off of a switch. they should both be wired directly to the fuse block.

okay i see where it says wiring to ign switch for the nema 2000. that is not necessary. the fuse panel (if you choose to install one) will get power from the battery switch. When you get off the water you turn the switch off and this stops the drain on the your battery
Old 08-18-2017, 09:01 PM
  #12  
Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jun 2017
Posts: 95
Likes: 0
Received 6 Likes on 5 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by mdees88 View Post
okay that is the nema 2000 backbone in the pic. It has its own power wires that are separate from the 7610s power wires. Yeah kind of a bush league wire job on your 7610. Stealing power from a switch (horn) is VERY common but its a piss poor practice.

If you wire in a fuse panel like I mentioned earlier. You will need to add a battery switch (blue sea 5511e is a great one... way better than a 1-2-both switch). The battery switch is what kills power to your garmin... and all the electronics you have wired to the fuse panel (vhf, radio, etc.). Neither the 7610 or the nema 2000 backbone should be wired to a switch or steal power off of a switch

Ohhhh I didn't realize that is what was meant by the blue sea thing earlier. I already have the Perko 1/2/both switch for each one of my batteries. So I could use that as the switch directly? I wouldn't have to run another cable to the battery correct? That way when I turn the batteries off at the end of the day they won't be drained by the unit? I think I am finally figuring this out, sorry for the ignorance...never been a very good electrician
Old 08-18-2017, 09:13 PM
  #13  
Admirals Club Admiral's Club Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Stapleton, AL
Posts: 3,457
Received 1,416 Likes on 759 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by PackinDown View Post
Ohhhh I didn't realize that is what was meant by the blue sea thing earlier. I already have the Perko 1/2/both switch for each one of my batteries. So I could use that as the switch directly? I wouldn't have to run another cable to the battery correct? That way when I turn the batteries off at the end of the day they won't be drained by the unit? I think I am finally figuring this out, sorry for the ignorance...never been a very good electrician
Yes the battery switch will stop it from draining.... do your switches on your dash have circuit breakers or fuses
Old 08-18-2017, 09:17 PM
  #14  
Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jun 2017
Posts: 95
Likes: 0
Received 6 Likes on 5 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by mdees88 View Post
Yes the battery switch will stop it from draining.... do your switches on your dash have circuit breakers or fuses

Breakers on everything. All look to be functional to me. None popped or anything.
Old 08-18-2017, 09:33 PM
  #15  
Admirals Club Admiral's Club Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Stapleton, AL
Posts: 3,457
Received 1,416 Likes on 759 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by PackinDown View Post
Breakers on everything. All look to be functional to me. None popped or anything.
okay so where is the 7610 currently wired both positive and neg. same for the nema 2000 backbone I think u said it got power off the horn. I bet it actually gets power from the circuit breaker of the horn.
Old 08-18-2017, 09:37 PM
  #16  
Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jun 2017
Posts: 95
Likes: 0
Received 6 Likes on 5 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by mdees88 View Post
okay so where is the 7610 currently wired both positive and neg. same for the nema 2000 backbone I think u said it got power off the horn. I bet it actually gets power from the circuit breaker of the horn.


Out of the yellow NEMA cable working backwards to power:


NEMA cable stripped back and individual wires split
Pos and neg go through inline fuses, one 6A, one 3A
Both pos and neg come back together to into one insulation wrap
Can't remember exactly where it goes from there, but you are probably correct that it is wired into the breaker and not the actual horn switch.
Old 08-18-2017, 09:52 PM
  #17  
Admirals Club Admiral's Club Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Stapleton, AL
Posts: 3,457
Received 1,416 Likes on 759 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by PackinDown View Post
Out of the yellow NEMA cable working backwards to power:


NEMA cable stripped back and individual wires split
Pos and neg go through inline fuses, one 6A, one 3A
Both pos and neg come back together to into one insulation wrap
Can't remember exactly where it goes from there, but you are probably correct that it is wired into the breaker and not the actual horn switch.
okay thats weird... only the positive should have a fuse there is no advantage of having one on the negative... i'm not familiar nema at all... but the nema does not give your 7610 power. there is another black cable coming out of the back of you 7610. it contains the power wires for the unit itself,,, if you were to unscrew that connection from the back of the 7610 the inside of the connector would be red in color.... do you see that wire... that's the one you need to trace out to figure out why you have no power to the 7610
Old 08-18-2017, 11:16 PM
  #18  
Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jun 2017
Posts: 95
Likes: 0
Received 6 Likes on 5 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by mdees88 View Post
okay thats weird... only the positive should have a fuse there is no advantage of having one on the negative... i'm not familiar nema at all... but the nema does not give your 7610 power. there is another black cable coming out of the back of you 7610. it contains the power wires for the unit itself,,, if you were to unscrew that connection from the back of the 7610 the inside of the connector would be red in color.... do you see that wire... that's the one you need to trace out to figure out why you have no power to the 7610


So the yellow NEMA cable I am referring to goes from the power to what Garmin calls the NEMA hub which is the t-connector I mentioned earlier. The external antenna also comes into this hub. From that hub the power cable comes off and goes to the 7610. Didn't mean to cause confusion here. I think what I can do is check to verify that the power cable has juice at the NEMA hub, if there is power going to that cable, but not to the unit then the power cable is bad. If there is not power going to the cable at the NEMA hub, then the power supply is bad meaning I would need to reroute the power through a fuse block and directly to the battery. I'll take a look in the morning when I get off work and report back.
Old 08-18-2017, 11:26 PM
  #19  
Admirals Club Admiral's Club Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Canada
Posts: 3,983
Likes: 0
Received 340 Likes on 285 Posts
Default

The nema2000 cable has nothing to do with the screen. Turning on. It is not a power cable. It is a data cable. The screen has its own power cable plugged into the back of screen. Direct to power
Old 08-18-2017, 11:42 PM
  #20  
Admirals Club Admiral's Club Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Stapleton, AL
Posts: 3,457
Received 1,416 Likes on 759 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by PackinDown View Post
So the yellow NEMA cable I am referring to goes from the power to what Garmin calls the NEMA hub which is the t-connector I mentioned earlier. The external antenna also comes into this hub. From that hub the power cable comes off and goes to the 7610. Didn't mean to cause confusion here. I think what I can do is check to verify that the power cable has juice at the NEMA hub, if there is power going to that cable, but not to the unit then the power cable is bad. If there is not power going to the cable at the NEMA hub, then the power supply is bad meaning I would need to reroute the power through a fuse block and directly to the battery. I'll take a look in the morning when I get off work and report back.
In bold is not correct. That cable does plug into the 7610 but it is not a power cable, it is a data cable. The NEMA backbone has NOTHING to do with powering the 7610. Here's a pic of a 7610 and 7610xsv (not sure what which one u got). Follow the cable that is plugged into the red connector. That is your power wire for the 7610.

Name:  aaaa.jpg
Views: 763
Size:  17.3 KB

Name:  aaaaaa.jpg
Views: 781
Size:  18.2 KB

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service - Do Not Sell My Personal Information -

Copyright © 2021 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.