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New to boating - need assistance with electrical issue

Old 11-20-2016, 06:41 AM
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Default New to boating - need assistance with electrical issue

Went fishing last weekend and noticed my bilge was on most of the day. Last time this happened it was at the dock but the float switch had gone bad which ended up burning out my bilge as well. Got in late in the day and that seemed to be issue again as the bilge wouldn't turn off even after I turned the batteries off. I hit the red manual reset button on the main breaker but now cannot get it reset. Aft and Fwd bilge now do not have power. Am I missing something simple here to reset this or do i need to just replace the breaker? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Old 11-20-2016, 07:09 AM
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Wire them straight to the batteries, NO fuse, #12 wire.
Old 11-20-2016, 09:47 AM
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Originally Posted by cozumel111 View Post
Wire them straight to the batteries, NO fuse, #12 wire.

Do not do this....

Which breaker? Did a black bar swing out the bottom when you pressed the red button? Then push the bar back up.

Once you get power again you will still have to fix the bilge problem. Probably float switch again.
Old 11-20-2016, 10:39 AM
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Smac999 - that's it. Thanks for the help.

Originally Posted by smac999 View Post
Do not do this....

Which breaker? Did a black bar swing out the bottom when you pressed the red button? Then push the bar back up.

Once you get power again you will still have to fix the bilge problem. Probably float switch again.
Old 11-20-2016, 01:27 PM
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Originally Posted by SeaDawg95 View Post
Smac999 - that's it. Thanks for the help.
smac999 is correct. Never run a bilge pump without a fuse. I've seen plenty that have melted. What happens, as in your case, is the pump runs with no water, no lubrication and cooling, friction heats up, plastic melts, rotation is slowed down due to impeller impingement on body,'locked rotor' current increases and fuse then blows. Without a fuse you get a black molten mess and possibly a fire.
Beside which, it is the manufacturers installation instructions that must be followed. This equipment can not only save your boat, but sink it too and if its proven to have caught fire due to no fuse, the insurance company will walk away.
As to the fuse rating required...that is usually on the pump housing but is determined by relating it to head pressure or height it has to pump from a flooded suction. That together with friction losses from long pipe runs also determines fuse rating as it loads up the motor to meet the design current. The trick is determining a fuse amp capacity that will blow when there is no water, therefore no load, until the motor starts to seize and stall, hopefully ASAP. This is why many pump motors like deck-wash pumps have thermistor temperature switches inbuilt. Cheap bilge pumps rely purely on current to trip the protective device.
Those that cut off the manufacturers fuse holders in favor of circuit breakers, which may operate magnetically, (they're the ones with terminals marked Load and Line on the terminals) also risk an insurance assessors decline of cover.

Last edited by isitstuffed; 11-20-2016 at 03:12 PM.

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