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Bilge pump install

Old 06-06-2016, 09:10 AM
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Default Bilge pump install

Need a new bilge pump, connection wise, what is the best way to connect wires?

Strip, twist, shrink wrap, done
Strip, place wires in a quick connect, crimp, shrink wrap done.
Strip, put one of 1000 diff connectors on and connect.

Yes, I'm an electrical moron..
Old 06-06-2016, 09:27 AM
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I'll vote for the second one, but I'd just add liquid electrical tape after crimping and then after the shrink wrap.
Old 06-06-2016, 09:57 AM
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strip, insert each end into a heatshrink butt connector, crimp, melt heatshrink. For added protection you could also use a piece of heatshrink over the entire connection.
Old 06-06-2016, 10:01 AM
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Use the adhesive-lined butt splice connectors. Crimp w/the curved crimp slot, not the one that's pointed & penetrates the connector. Heat them until the adhesive flows and you're done.
Old 06-06-2016, 10:03 AM
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Name:  anc-706.jpg
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Size:  7.6 KB
Old 06-06-2016, 10:15 AM
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if it is bilge pump, I use the male/female connectors and heat shrink after that. Same with my bait pumps. If they go out while on the water, I can just take the heat shrink off, pull out the male connector and install new one. Then use rescue tape on them until back on the dock and redo with heat shrink. Quick and easy.
Old 06-06-2016, 10:17 AM
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Deutsch connectors?
Old 06-06-2016, 10:22 AM
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Originally Posted by coores14 View Post
Don't know why the photo is not coming through,

Are these the connectors with heat shrink built in?
Old 06-06-2016, 10:25 AM
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Originally Posted by spraynet 1 View Post
Don't know why the photo is not coming through,

Are these the connectors with heat shrink built in?
yes. photo is working for me. either way, you know what I'm talking about. I'll try again...

Name:  anc-706.jpg
Views: 710
Size:  7.6 KB

http://www.jamestowndistributors.com...uct.do?pid=706
Old 06-06-2016, 10:26 AM
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Originally Posted by Cobia 217 View Post
Use the adhesive-lined butt splice connectors. Crimp w/the curved crimp slot, not the one that's pointed & penetrates the connector. Heat them until the adhesive flows and you're done.
Are those the same ones right below your post, from Coores?
Your idea sounds like a great deal of protection....adhesive, crimping, and heat shrink. I like that. The actual name for these is "Butt splice connector"?
Old 06-06-2016, 10:26 AM
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Originally Posted by coores14 View Post
yes. photo is working for me. either way, you know what I'm talking about. I'll try again...

Attachment 670756

http://www.jamestowndistributors.com...uct.do?pid=706
Perfect....thank you!

Old 06-06-2016, 10:30 AM
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Would any of you then coat the connection in "Liquid electrical tape", as well, or am I getting stupid here?
Old 06-06-2016, 10:34 AM
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I personally don't like liquid tape because it's messy. and it looks messy. and unless you glob it on (messy) there's a chance there's a pinhole or something somewhere that was missed.
Old 06-06-2016, 10:35 AM
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Coores14...

Those connectors, the size is on the connector right? Just match up the number on the wire, or is it color coded?

Sorry for the questions, I'm just very ignorant with anything electrical. Almost died from a hit I took with a 220 line. Had to be hit with a 2 X 4 to disconnect me from surge I was told. Woke up 4 days later.

Nothing more than I hate then electrical work.
Old 06-06-2016, 10:38 AM
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the size is usually written on the connector, and most definitely on the package. Match it to the wire size you have, which should be written on the wire. Yes, they are color coded, too.
22-18 red
16-14 blue
12-10 yellow
Old 06-06-2016, 10:51 AM
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Originally Posted by spraynet 1 View Post
Are those the same ones right below your post, from Coores?
Your idea sounds like a great deal of protection....adhesive, crimping, and heat shrink. I like that. The actual name for these is "Butt splice connector"?
These are all you need. Buy some spares and keep them in your boat tool kit. They are ideal for trailer light connections too. Like coores said, match the wire size to the connector size (the wire size range is on the package).
Old 06-06-2016, 10:57 AM
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Sweet....

Thank you both for the info......

Now on to figuring out how to change out the old switch panel.....this should be fun!!!!
Old 06-06-2016, 01:26 PM
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^ What they said. Your 220 story made me lol. I don't care for electrical work either, although I've done several pumps. You'll most likely need the blue connectors, but double check the wires before purchasing the connectors. I like to heat them, seal them up and then apply liquid electrical tape. Can't ever have too much water resistance!
Old 06-06-2016, 02:30 PM
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Update....

According to a marine surveyor, article is located in the test section of this site, The ONLY right way to wire a bilge pump is to use a bus. Because anything else will eventually let moisture into the line, therby causing a drop in electrical power to the pump causing it to not work at full capacity.

Also, this author states that all pumps REAL output is 1/2 of what the pump states. So 500 GPH is only 250 GPH AT BEST!

also, a boat between 16-20ft should have TWO pumps with a REAL or TRUE pumping capacity of 2500 GPH. The article really opened my eyes to just how important these little suckers are!!!!
Old 06-06-2016, 04:09 PM
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Originally Posted by coores14 View Post
strip, insert each end into a heatshrink butt connector, crimp, melt heatshrink. For added protection you could also use a piece of heatshrink over the entire connection.
Didn't realize there would be any other way to do it. Only would add to use dielectric grease. Done correctly there is no way water could get in and cause corrosion.

I would definitely not use a buss bar. How would that ever be better and more sealed. BAD idea there.

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