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Lowrance NEMA cable to Raymarine Seatalk

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Lowrance NEMA cable to Raymarine Seatalk

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Old 02-09-2016, 07:53 PM
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Default Lowrance NEMA cable to Raymarine Seatalk

Is there a "crossover" cable or system to connect my Lowrance NEMA network to a Raymarine Seatalk network?

I have an HDS8 Gen2, with a backbone installed. I want to get it talking to my Raymarine EV-200 Autopilot.

I've read the threads about splicing cables and whatnot, but in this world of handy solutions you would hope there would be a pre-built crossover.

What say yea?
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Old 02-09-2016, 08:03 PM
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You need a devicenet cable
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Old 02-10-2016, 01:55 AM
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Yes, there are SeaTalk ng to micro-C adapter cables available from Raymarine.
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Old 02-10-2016, 06:42 PM
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Originally Posted by InternationalMarineBrian View Post
You need a devicenet cable
Hey Mike can you sell me such a cable? I got the AP from you, and it work great! Can believe I ever fished without one.
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Old 02-10-2016, 09:00 PM
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You need a blue Raymarine STNG backbone cable. Plug one end into STNG network. Whack the other end and install an appropriate Maretron Field Installable DeviceNet connector. Be careful there are two sizes(micro/mid and mini), also male and female (a key difference from RM backbone cables) depending on which end of the N2K network you are plugging into.

When I bridged my STNG and Garmin N2K networks I purchased "CWR31787 - Maretron Micro Field-Attachable Connector - Male - FA-CM-ST" from ceshowroom.com for $13.87. It will also help to have a small metric ruler when making the wire and insulation cuts for the connector.

After installing the plug, attach to the N2K network. You should now see the sources on one network as options on the other network's devices.

Prior to bridging each network had a power source. You are supposed to disconnect ONE of the power sources to be N2K compliant, though in practice it might not be necessary. I put my second power supply on a breaker so I can turn it on if the other network fails.

I also suggest that you keep the original backbone terminator plugs handy so you can isolate the networks in case of failure in one.

Last edited by centerisland; 02-11-2016 at 07:12 AM.
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Old 02-11-2016, 04:18 AM
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http://www.westmarine.com/buy/raymar...emale--9717778
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Old 02-11-2016, 06:56 AM
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That is for connecting one N2K device to a STNG network, not for bridging two networks. It's a spur cable rather than a backbone cable.
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Old 02-11-2016, 09:39 AM
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I should have read the OP more thoroughly. I've made such a cable for a fishing buddy, I used one SeaTalk ng backbone cable and one micro-C NMEA 2000 cable, cut both cables and soldered 2 of the parts together.
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Old 02-11-2016, 10:02 AM
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I have the older SeaTalk network and am putting in an MFD. My autopilot (Autohelm 100) has built-in crossover with NMEA 0183, and the ST7000 control heads have NMEA 0183 inputs to SeaTalk.

(This is not relevant to the OP's SeaTalk ng setup, but since the subject line didn't specify ng, this info may be useful to others reading the thread.)
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Old 02-12-2016, 06:29 AM
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Originally Posted by abbor View Post
I should have read the OP more thoroughly. I've made such a cable for a fishing buddy, I used one SeaTalk ng backbone cable and one micro-C NMEA 2000 cable, cut both cables and soldered 2 of the parts together.
That would work, but solder - in general - does not belong on boats: crimp fittings are preferred. So, yes, you could splice the backbone wires (or, better, use a micro jumper block). With strain relief of course. And corrosion-proof covering. And hope that splicing the signal carrying wires outside of RF shielding doesn't introduce any issues. Or you could just purchase the correct Maretron connector with screw-down color-coded connectors.
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Old 02-12-2016, 04:25 PM
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Let me ask the question differently. Is there a cable in a pretty plastic bag that will cross-over from my Lowrance backbone to my Seatalk NG network?
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Old 02-12-2016, 05:06 PM
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Lets clarify the mud here.
As you have stated you have a Lowrance network and a Raymarine network. Is that correct?
Or do you have a Lowrance network and a Raymarine pilot that you want to put on the Lowrance net work?
If its number 1 or 2 you need a devicenet cable

Last edited by InternationalMarineBrian; 02-12-2016 at 06:35 PM.
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Old 02-12-2016, 06:23 PM
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You just need a devicenet cable with the white spur fitting on the seatalkng side and a male micro-c on the other. You'll need an extra T for each network. Then disconnect the 12v power from one of the networks.
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Old 02-12-2016, 09:11 PM
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Originally Posted by InternationalMarineBrian View Post
Lets clarify the mud here. As you have stated you have a Lowrance network and a Raymarine network. Is that correct? Or do you have a Lowrance network and a Raymarine pilot that you want to put on the Lowrance net work
He has a Raymarine STNG network for the EV-200, which has an ACU, an EV-1, and a control unit all connected to the STNG backbone. He needs to connect that backbone to the N2K backbone as I outlined above. He has to use a RM cable because they do not sell RM connectors. There are no crossover backbone cables - all of the dual fitting cables are for spurs. A RM device on a N2K network, or a N2K device on a RM network.
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Old 02-13-2016, 04:27 AM
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I think the easiest thing to do would be to get a half of a Raymarine backbone cable, and a half of a regular micro-c n2k cable and connect it between the 2 existing networks. You will still want to disconnect power from one of the networks. We can make you one if interested.
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Old 02-13-2016, 06:58 AM
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Originally Posted by yachtjim View Post
I think the easiest thing to do would be to get a half of a Raymarine backbone cable, and a half of a regular micro-c n2k cable and connect it between the 2 existing networks. You will still want to disconnect power from one of the networks. We can make you one if interested.
I am very interested in having you make that cable. My wiring skills are marginal at best.

And to clarify, I have a Raymarine EV-200 AP with the Seatalk starter kit. I have 1 open connection on the starter kit. There is a terminator on the T at the AP Control Head.

I'd prefer to connect to the Seatalk network at the AP "T" and from there into the Lowrance network (removing the terminator from the Seatalk, and removing the terminator from the Lowrance network, and connecting the two.)

If this is not possible, I can pull a cable from the Seatalk starter kit to the Lowrance network. That cable would need to be at least 12 feet long.
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Old 02-13-2016, 07:30 AM
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Call me Monday, we'll get you one made up.
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Old 02-13-2016, 09:29 AM
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Originally Posted by hjorgan View Post
And to clarify, I have a Raymarine EV-200 AP with the Seatalk starter kit. I have 1 open connection on the starter kit. There is a terminator on the T at the AP Control Head.
First, you have a SeaTalkNG (STNG) network - be careful when ordering parts since SeaTalk refers to an older networking system.

Second, if you truly have an "open" connection on the 5-way connector you should purchase and install a white "SeaTalkNG Blanking plug A06032". They're like $3 (from memory).

You have extended the backbone (blue plugs) with a backbone cable into one side of the "T", with a spur cable connected to the AP out the bottom of the "T". You can extend your backbone by removing the blue plug on the other side of the "T" and plugging the bridge cable there. Again, keep that plug handy if you need to isolate the networks (typically for debugging a modification). All RM STNG backbone plugs are the same gender so it doesn't matter which side is which - do whatever results in the fewest contortions to the cables. There are total length considerations, but your network seems small enough that I wouldn't worry about that.

I would still use a Maretron connector but if you want to use @yachtjim's cable that should work.You will have to decide ahead of time whether you want the DeviceNet connector to be male of female - it will match the terminator you are removing (again, retain) on the Lowrance N2K network.

One final point on the lack of power isolation between the networks. You will be combining the power AND signal wires, that's why you should remove one of the power inputs (the spec says only one power supply). It's particularly important that you also remove one of the negative power connections, otherwise you may introduce a "ground loop" that will play havoc with the signals. Alternatively you can install a Garmin "NMEA 2000 Power Isolator 010-11580-00" about $13 online, and leave your existing power connections in place.

Last edited by centerisland; 02-13-2016 at 10:17 AM.
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Old 02-14-2016, 07:04 AM
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centerisland thanks for the info, I have the blanking plug and will install today! @yachtjim will call you tomorrow (Monday) and I like the idea of the Power Isolator, if you have that in stock will order that also.

Thanks THT ya'll (or youse guys depending on where you are) are helping this old land lubber get the boat tricked out correctly.
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