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Connecting Yamaha F150 with NMEA 2000 cable

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Connecting Yamaha F150 with NMEA 2000 cable

Old 04-06-2015, 05:42 PM
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Default Connecting Yamaha F150 with NMEA 2000 cable

Trying to run a network cable from the engine to a Garmin MFD. Has anyone had any success getting the cable thru the engine housing into the conduit. There appears to no room for anything the housing fitting, it has a gasket made for gear cables,gas line etc. but nothing else.

Am I missing something? There is no other way out of the engine housing but through this conduit. Any suggestions are appreciated.
Thanks
Will
Old 04-06-2015, 06:13 PM
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Originally Posted by sevencycles View Post
Trying to run a network cable from the engine to a Garmin MFD. Has anyone had any success getting the cable thru the engine housing into the conduit. There appears to no room for anything the housing fitting, it has a gasket made for gear cables,gas line etc. but nothing else.

Am I missing something? There is no other way out of the engine housing but through this conduit. Any suggestions are appreciated.
Thanks
Will
Yes.
Old 04-06-2015, 08:01 PM
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7,
Do you have Yamaha Command Link? I just did this on my Robalo- so this is fresh on my mind.
Old 04-07-2015, 05:05 AM
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Originally Posted by Nole Animal View Post
7,
Do you have Yamaha Command Link? I just did this on my Robalo- so this is fresh on my mind.
No, standard round gauges, I have found the square white connector with a blue and white wires under the cowling right at the front of the engine. I have read this is the connection for engine data to a MFD. There just isn't room to fit the cable through the conduit fitting on the engine housing.

If I cut the network end off the cable I might have chance of getting it through but can the cable be respliced with a new network end connector?
Old 04-07-2015, 07:08 AM
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I have an F150 and have run that cable for Lowrance MFD.

In your first post, you refer to a gasket?
Are you referring to the round rubber piece that is about 1/5" in diameter and 1/5" in length?
I believe it is referred to as "grommet" in the parts diagram.
It is clamped into the lower motor housing and all your cables go thru it to the black rigging tube that is attached to the splash well bulkhead for your cables and wires to enter your boat?

If so, on mine, undo the clamp from the bottom cowling. you lift the rubber grommet out of the lower housing. The rigging tube is zip tied to the front of the grommet. You have to cut the zip tie and pull the rigging tube forward off the grommet. The grommet has a split that allows you to open it up and insert a wire. You don't have to feed the fitting thru the grommet. You do have to feed the fitting thru your rigging tube to the interior of your boat.

your grommet should have an available channel to put the new wire into, if not, chose one to go thru that has something else in the channel. Personally, I would not chose the fuel line channel. The grommet is very flexible, and will compress tightly around all the rigging and keep water from entering your engine at that location. Pay attention to what wires and tubing goes thru certain channels of the grommet. Some channels are larger than others. re-install the same way you took it off. Perhaps a picture before you open it would help you when putting back together. Im not trying to make is sound too difficult I hope. When I opened mine, none of the current wires came out of the grommet, and there was an empty channel to lay the new wire into. It took less than 10 minutes to get the wire connected, inserted into the grommet, fed into the splash well bulkhead and into the interior of the boat, and then all put back together. Now, running the wire up to the console was a different matter .

Here is a parts diagram that might help visualize what I am saying.

http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Ya...ING/parts.html

on my current boat there is no black rigging tube. all the cables, wires, fuel line are bunched together and zip tied and go from the front of the motor to a "rubber boot" in the splash well thru the bulkhead into the boat. Seems like on a previous boat, the rigging tube had to be rotated onto the grommet and then rotated onto a hard plastic boot in the splash well bulkhead. I don't know exactly which you have, but thought I would mention that there are alternate ways to get your wires from the motor thru the splash well area, and into your boat's interior. . If you don't currently have a rigging tube, I don't think it is worth the effort to install one. You have to disconnect all the rigging from the interior of your motor, feed it thru the rigging tube, then re-install all the cables, wires and fuel line. it looks neater, but it sure is a lot of work.

hope this helps.

Last edited by fshmn; 04-07-2015 at 07:27 AM.
Old 04-07-2015, 07:14 AM
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Old 04-07-2015, 07:22 AM
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Originally Posted by fshmn View Post
I have an F150 and have run that cable for Lowrance MFD.

In your first post, you refer to a gasket?
Are you referring to the round rubber piece that is about 1/5" in diameter and 1/5" in length?
I believe it is referred to as "grommet" in the parts diagram.
It is clamped into the lower motor housing and all your cables go thru it to the black rigging tube (on mine) that is attached to the splash well bulkhead for your cables and wires to enter your boat?

If so, on mine, undo the clamp from the bottom cowling. you lift the rubber grommet out of the lower housing. The rigging tube is zip tied to the front of the grommet. You have to cut the zip tie and pull the rigging tube forward off the grommet. The grommet has a split that allows you to open it up and insert a wire. You don't have to feed the fitting thru the grommet. You do have to feed the fitting thru your rigging tube to the interior of your boat.

Here is a parts diagram that might help visualize what I am saying.

http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Ya...ING/parts.html

hope this helps.
This is what your missing. You will find 2 bolts near that grommet that will take off a small piece on the lower part of the engine covering. Then lift that grommet out. Be sure you pay close attention how things are laid in there as they are snug and fit certain ways. your hardest part should be snaking it through the tubing
Old 04-07-2015, 09:02 AM
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Originally Posted by sevencycles View Post
No, standard round gauges, I have found the square white connector with a blue and white wires under the cowling right at the front of the engine. I have read this is the connection for engine data to a MFD. There just isn't room to fit the cable through the conduit fitting on the engine housing.

If I cut the network end off the cable I might have chance of getting it through but can the cable be respliced with a new network end connector?
I have round gauges also, but I realized I have Command Link when the NMEA 2000 connector on my motor (the white one with the blue and white cables) already had something connected to it (the CL bus cable)- but there was no CL hub. So, I am assuming on yours there is nothing connected to the NMEA 2000 connector on your motor? That's kind of a bummer, because I think Command Link (not CL plus) comes standard on the Robalos now.
Old 04-07-2015, 08:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Nole Animal View Post
I have round gauges also, but I realized I have Command Link when the NMEA 2000 connector on my motor (the white one with the blue and white cables) already had something connected to it (the CL bus cable)- but there was no CL hub. So, I am assuming on yours there is nothing connected to the NMEA 2000 connector on your motor? That's kind of a bummer, because I think Command Link (not CL plus) comes standard on the Robalos now.
My 2015 cayman came in with command link, I was expecting the standard round digital gauges.
Old 04-07-2015, 10:03 PM
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I just did this yesterday. Had an empty track in the grommet at the 1 o'clock position. Running the cable through the rigging tube was the hardest part. Had to use a fish tape. Worked perfectly when all connected though.
Old 04-08-2015, 04:30 PM
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I have a 2014 R200 with Yamaha 150, and it also came with the round gauges. I managed to get the cable thru that grommet from the MFD to the white connector at the engine just like wamc0206 and egsatech said. Yes, it is a tight fit, but when you get to that grommet with the little slot, you should be able to finesse it thru.
And when you use a fishtape/snake when getting it thru the flex-tube, be careful not to force it too hard - might poke it thru/into something that didn't need a hole in it.

I guarantee the work will be worth it, I love my setup!
Old 04-09-2015, 05:15 AM
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Thanks for all the great info. I am going to tackle this this weekend. Hopefully there is room in the grommet for the cable. The NMEA 2K connection on the engine is capped and not connected to anything. I agree the hardest part will be getting it through the rigging housing/conduit.

I will take pictures as I go and post them here.

Thanks agin for the help.
Old 04-10-2015, 11:34 AM
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Originally Posted by dogdad1 View Post
I have a 2014 R200 with Yamaha 150, and it also came with the round gauges. I managed to get the cable thru that grommet from the MFD to the white connector at the engine just like wamc0206 and egsatech said. Yes, it is a tight fit, but when you get to that grommet with the little slot, you should be able to finesse it thru.
And when you use a fishtape/snake when getting it thru the flex-tube, be careful not to force it too hard - might poke it thru/into something that didn't need a hole in it.

I guarantee the work will be worth it, I love my setup!
Where did you mount your transducer?
Old 04-10-2015, 04:54 PM
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I started out with the transom-mount xducer that came with my Garmin 740s, and I stuck it on the starboard side of the transom. However, it would sometimes lose lock on the very shallow bottoms here in the Keys, and it was suggested that I go to a thru-hull version instead.
I normally try to do as much 'wrenching' as I can on my own stuff, but one look told me very quickly that I didn't have anywhere near long-enough of an arm to reach down into the bilge to mount that thing . So, reluctantly, I had a shop put it in, and all's I remember is that it was a recommended Airmar-version mounted on the starboard side, and about 1 1/2-2 feet forward of the stern. Bottom-problem solved.

Good luck with yours. Maybe we could keep tabs on each-other's progress - I bet there's a lot we can all benefit from thataway.


BTW, how the heck do they expect us to access ANYTHING down there?? I can see the bilge pump waaaaay down there and I want to put in another one (or at least a larger version), but no-way-jose can I get to it thru the 8" deck-plate cover waaaay up above.
Old 09-14-2016, 06:14 PM
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bump
Old 09-15-2016, 11:14 AM
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Originally Posted by eaglemountainman View Post
bump
What's the bump for on an old thread?
Old 09-15-2016, 04:19 PM
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Personal.
Old 09-15-2016, 07:24 PM
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Sub
Old 11-26-2019, 05:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Nole Animal View Post
I have round gauges also, but I realized I have Command Link when the NMEA 2000 connector on my motor (the white one with the blue and white cables) already had something connected to it (the CL bus cable)- but there was no CL hub. So, I am assuming on yours there is nothing connected to the NMEA 2000 connector on your motor? That's kind of a bummer, because I think Command Link (not CL plus) comes standard on the Robalos now.
I've been attempting to do this with my 2019 Robalo but have been puzzled because the engine connector was supposed to be unused and instead, my round gauges are tied to it. How did you connect the engine to the NMEA 200 network?
Old 11-26-2019, 06:00 PM
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Originally Posted by LFW View Post
I've been attempting to do this with my 2019 Robalo but have been puzzled because the engine connector was supposed to be unused and instead, my round gauges are tied to it.
Yamaha makes round non-Command Link gauges,
and visually similar Yamaha round Command Link gauges.
You have the latter,
so that's where you tie in.

did you see what the gauges are connected to?
is there a "multiport hub"?

Name:  CL-bus.jpg
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or "just wires" like so:

Name:  inline-hub-w-Y-splitter-copy.jpg
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