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Single Outboard / Single Battery

Old 02-28-2015, 09:55 PM
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Default Single Outboard / Single Battery

I've googled but there's nothing out there. Everything that comes up is dual batteries, ACR's, etc. It should be simple but wanted to confirm.

-Simple Perko On/Off
-Yamaha 90 Two Stroke
-Light loads - Only VHF, GPS and LED Nav
-The run from battery to engine is 13 ft. exactly (battery under console)
-The run from positive stud to switch panel is less than 18 inches
-Assume that the Blue Seas switch panel shown contains individual circuit breakers for each load
-There is no bilge pump - no need to wire anything directly to battery (18ft RIB)

1. Is this the correct set up? (I just drew it up)

2. The run from the battery to the engine and back is 26 ft. What gauge wire do I need? (couldn't find answer in engine manual). I will use this "thick" wire to/from the engine/terminal stud, to/from battery/terminal stud/on-off switch

3. Is there anything else I'm missing????
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Old 03-01-2015, 07:44 AM
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I have pretty much the same setup on my 17 footer. Single battery in the console. Single switch. 75HP 2 stroke Yamaha. I believe I used 4ga from the battery to the switch and the factory wire from the switch to the motor (also 4ga I believe). I just went and looked at it but the cable isn't marked. It was something I had laying around and it works.

I also eliminated the studs you have. instead of the positive stud, I have two wires running to the common terminal on the switch (one to the engine, one to the fuse block that I have instead of the breaker setup that you have.) Instead of the negative stud, I just ran two negatives to the battery. I don't like to pile a bunch of connectors on a battery or switch but the way I have it, there is two negatives and one hot to the battery and 3 wires on the switch counting the line in which is fine by me.
Old 03-01-2015, 08:21 AM
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You are missing a main feed breaker, required within two feet of the source (battery). This would be on the positive feed, probably where you have a "10" label between the post and the switch panel - assuming that post is near the battery.

A surface-mount 40-amp is typical for the 'house' feed.

Brian
Old 03-01-2015, 09:01 AM
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You are missing a bilge line straight to the battery.
Old 03-01-2015, 10:34 AM
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Originally Posted by ocnslr View Post
You are missing a main feed breaker, required within two feet of the source (battery). This would be on the positive feed, probably where you have a "10" label between the post and the switch panel - assuming that post is near the battery.

A surface-mount 40-amp is typical for the 'house' feed.
Cheapest would be one if these at the battery or at the on/off switch?
https://www.bluesea.com/products/519...k_-_30_to_300A

More expensively, would be one of these just after the on/off switch?
https://www.bluesea.com/products/718...face_Mount_30A


Originally Posted by stiletto View Post
You are missing a bilge line straight to the battery.
Originally Posted by starbright55 View Post
-There is no bilge pump - no need to wire anything directly to battery (18ft RIB)
Stiletto - no bilge pump





Thanks everyone - I was hoping to get some of this done today but because it's [oddly] raining in southern California today and I need to work outside. Instead, planning and ordering stuff online! (this might save some money because I won't have to go to West Marine!)
Old 03-01-2015, 01:56 PM
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You could use a 20a inline fuse. A whole lot cheaper than a breaker and with such a low load it'll be fine.
Old 03-01-2015, 02:54 PM
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Originally Posted by starbright55 View Post
Cheapest would be one if these at the battery or at the on/off switch?
https://www.bluesea.com/products/519...k_-_30_to_300A
The ABYC guidelines allow up to 40" of unfused feed wire if the wire is protected with some kind of enclosure or conduit. Since your feed to the house breakers is only 18" long (from the +ve stud to the breakers), you could skip the circuit protection for the 18" length of #10 wire if the wire is enclosed in plastic flex conduit.

If you're not comfortable with that, then a 40A MRBF at the positive stud would work very well to protect the wire and the breaker panel. Decent #10 wire is rated for 50A-60A, but the Blue Sea WeatherDeck breaker panels are only rated for 45A total current. You won't be using anywhere near that much current now, but you may add more devices in the future.
Old 03-01-2015, 04:56 PM
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Originally Posted by stowaway View Post
You could use a 20a inline fuse. A whole lot cheaper than a breaker and with such a low load it'll be fine.
Ok, latest and greatest picture.

-substituted BEP on/off switch and switch panel - cheaper. I can't say that I think any less of Marinco/BEP versus Blue Sea Systems.
-30A blade type fuse is the most cost effective here before the switch panel - especially since I wouldn't need circuit protection at <40" if I sheathed that wire.
-removed the studs. Various comments heard elsewhere is that the run to the engine needs to be as direct as possible and it's ok having two terminals to each battery post.
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Old 03-02-2015, 05:19 AM
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Originally Posted by starbright55 View Post
Ok, latest and greatest picture.

-substituted BEP on/off switch and switch panel - cheaper. I can't say that I think any less of Marinco/BEP versus Blue Sea Systems.
-30A blade type fuse is the most cost effective here before the switch panel - especially since I wouldn't need circuit protection at <40" if I sheathed that wire.
-removed the studs. Various comments heard elsewhere is that the run to the engine needs to be as direct as possible and it's ok having two terminals to each battery post.
I like it! I personally don't see the point in the 30amp fuse and view it as an entry point for corrosion but if it supposed to be there or makes you feel better, then great! I believe the inline 30amp fuse is just to protect everything in case the wire between the fuse and the switches gets physically damaged and shorts out. Really With such a short run (12") it seems unlikely.

Second thought. Did you loose the circuit breakers when you switched to BEP 900-4WP? What protects the individual circuits now?
Old 03-02-2015, 12:22 PM
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Originally Posted by DreamWeaver21 View Post
Second thought. Did you loose the circuit breakers when you switched to BEP 900-4WP? What protects the individual circuits now?
Both of the switch panels that I was looking at have integrated slots for blade fuses. The com with all 15A fuses but you can swap them out based on the need of the load/device.

Attached is a picture of the Blue Seas - you can see where the blade fuses fit under the cover.

The BEP should work the same way. From their desription:
-Compact panel size
-Sprayproof inline fuse holders with fuses included
-Waterproof power receptacles (16A) in five and three way models
-Waterproof to IP56
-Switches rated at 20A DC
-LxWxH is 3.75'x4.25'x2.9' (95x107x75 mm)
-Panel supplied with label LBL-WP
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Old 03-02-2015, 05:53 PM
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Cool. I'd run with the second drawing then.
Old 03-06-2015, 08:26 AM
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Still no bilge pump....
Old 03-06-2015, 09:39 AM
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still no need for one according to the boat owner.
Old 03-06-2015, 09:51 AM
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Originally Posted by Lordwrench View Post
Still no bilge pump....
Originally Posted by stowaway View Post
still no need for one according to the boat owner.
Nope, still no bilge pump

Avon 5.4m Searider, flooding hull (look it up), multiple sealed flotation chambers in the hull, 5 separate chambers in tubes, and no bilge to put a pump in. Some RIBS have a deck depression/sump at the transom but this boat doesn't. It also has two large "elephant trunks" that will drain any water that gets on deck.
Old 07-29-2015, 07:31 PM
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Hi.
I have a Enduro 30HP 2 stroke outboard and trying to wire the alternator output to a batt and power my sounder/gps.
Problem is, the alternator output connects directly to the cdi and no other 12V available connectors. This alternator is 12V-6A rated.

1) Can I split the 12V +/- wires for this purpose (splice the 12V +/- to make new connectors)?

2) What's the supply like from these alternators? AC or DC? Regulated?

3) Is it OK to have the battery both being charged by the alternator and supply load at the same time?
- Damage my gps/echo?
- Damage my batt?

4) I have an old RC charger which can be used to charge the battery. Will it be OK if I hook it?
Old 07-29-2015, 08:50 PM
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it looks to me like your 30a fuse is within 12" of the swithes which is wrong. it should be beside the battery switch.

edit: sorry I thought run to switches was 13' but that was engine. if you're only 18" from battery switch to fused switch panel I would probably just wrap it in loom and not bother with the fuse.


you'd probably be running 2awg or so for the engine.
Old 08-01-2015, 01:13 PM
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Take a look at this:

Old 08-02-2015, 11:33 AM
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Just something to consider:
If that engine can be emergency manual-pull-started with a cord and handle, and you prove to yourself you can do this cold or hot (make sure the ign switch is ON or disconnect the harness), one battery ...could... be enough.

If it can't or you can't , how are you going to get back if the 1 battery fails for one reason or another and you have no backup battery? You can't call SeaTow on a VHF with a dead battery.
Old 07-26-2016, 08:46 AM
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You can with a handheld.
Old 07-26-2016, 04:07 PM
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Originally Posted by TTaxi View Post
Just something to consider:
If that engine can be emergency manual-pull-started with a cord and handle, and you prove to yourself you can do this cold or hot (make sure the ign switch is ON or disconnect the harness), one battery ...could... be enough.

If it can't or you can't , how are you going to get back if the 1 battery fails for one reason or another and you have no backup battery? You can't call SeaTow on a VHF with a dead battery.
Good point. Not a fan of a single battery, ie. single point of failure.

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