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Transducer Install Question

Old 02-19-2015, 04:25 PM
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Default Transducer Install Question

I have chosen the Airmar B175C-20-HW transducer to install in my Tiara. I currently have a through hull with a fairing both inside and out to make up for the 20 degree deadrise in that area. So the current hole is vertical with the world.

My thought was to remove the old transducer, whack the fairing blocks with a rubber mallet or try to work a putty knife between the hull and block to loosen and remove. Then I pland to temporarily plug the vertical hole with a well fit wood round glued in. This would be used for a pilot hole for the 3 3/4 holesaw reqired for the new transducer - what a beast needing a 3-7/8 hole!

I think I could cut the hole perpendicular to the hull surface, or 20 degrees from vertical. I think the larger hole saw will remove all of the original hole if started in the right place.

Today I removed the nut from the existing transducer and tried to rock the inside block with my big channel lock pliers. I thought it might break loose, I was wrong.

So the original set up is still in place, rather securely. I see two options, the one above, remove it somehow and drill out the smaller (2-1/2 I think) hole? If so how should I proceed at removing the old ducer and blocks?
OR
Put the nut back on that ducer and blow a big hole in the other side of the hull?

Please, any advice will be considered.

Bryan

Last edited by slipfit; 02-19-2015 at 05:28 PM.
Old 02-19-2015, 04:29 PM
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Originally Posted by slipfit View Post
I have chosen the Airmar B175C-20-HW transducer to install in my Tiara. I currently have a through hull with a fairing both inside and out to make up for the 20 degree deadrise in that area. So the current hole is vertical with the world.

My thought was to remove the old transducer, whack the fairing blocks with a rubber mallet or try to work a putty knife between the hull and block to loosen and remove. Then I pland to temporarily plug the vertical hole with a well fit wood round glued in. This would be used for a pilot hole for the 3 3/4 holesaw reqired for the new transducer - what a beast needing a 3-7/8 hole!

I think I could cut the hole perpendicular to the hull surface, or 20 degrees from vertical. I think the larger hole saw will remove all of the original hole if started in the right place.

Today I removed the nut from the existing transducer and tried to rock the inside block with my big channel lock pliers. I thought it might break loose, I was wrong.

So the original set up is still in place, rather securely. I see two options, the one above, remove it somehow and drill out the smaller (2-1/2 I think) hole? If so how should I proceed at removing the old ducker and blocks?
OR
Put the nut back on that ducer and blow a big hole in the other side of the hull?

Please, any advice will be considered.

Bryan
If you have a fairing then you may also have a mounting stud on the front of the faring that needs to be addressed before you remove the unit.




Old 02-19-2015, 05:00 PM
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Some pictures, inside and out.
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Old 02-19-2015, 05:02 PM
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And out...
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Old 02-19-2015, 05:26 PM
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I'm guessing you have a decent amount of 5200 or something similar holding it in too, get some Boatlife Release and follow the instructions to soften the adhesive. Keep it wet and work it and the adhesive bond will break. The stuff is amazing. Just give it a little time to work and apply liberally.
Old 02-19-2015, 05:50 PM
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That is a B744 style..they normally have a bolt holding the nose of the unit in place.
Old 02-19-2015, 05:56 PM
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Good to know Gil. If this is the case, I'm not so sure I can eliminate both the forward bolt hole and the main hole with a 3-3/4 hole saw.

Do I access the bolt from the inside or outside? It is not obvious where it is.

So that begs the question; should I just leave it and install new transducer in the other side?
Old 02-19-2015, 11:08 PM
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Originally Posted by slipfit View Post
Good to know Gil. If this is the case, I'm not so sure I can eliminate both the forward bolt hole and the main hole with a 3-3/4 hole saw.

Do I access the bolt from the inside or outside? It is not obvious where it is.

So that begs the question; should I just leave it and install new transducer in the other side?
Several variations.... call me and I will walk you thru it.
Old 02-20-2015, 05:11 AM
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Originally Posted by slipfit View Post
Good to know Gil. If this is the case, I'm not so sure I can eliminate both the forward bolt hole and the main hole with a 3-3/4 hole saw.
When you get that far, focus on the large hole. You may need to reconsider how close you will get to the small hole. You want a little room to be able to address it; an inch or so will do.
Old 02-20-2015, 09:10 AM
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Originally Posted by slipfit View Post
Today I removed the nut from the existing transducer and tried to rock the inside block with my big channel lock pliers. I thought it might break loose, I was wrong.
You may have a B744V or its predecessor, the B44. Either way, once all of the rings/pins and nut have been removed from inside the hull, the removal should proceed from outside of the hull. Cut though the sealant between the hull bottom and the fairing (as best you can) with a length of some braided fishing line (or similar) by sawing the line back and forth. When you think you've made some good progress, grab the transducer with a extra large pipe wrench and twist that MF with all your might.

I've done this a couple of times (less than some, more than most).
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Old 02-20-2015, 09:28 AM
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I can't believe people install transducers with 5200....my goodness (this isn't directed at anyone on here, just a general statement). There really is fewer applications where 5200 is needed on boats, a lot less than most people think. Thru-Hull transducers are not one of the applications, unless you don't have the hull nut and if you're installing it without a hull nut then you deserve all the pain that is headed your way. My point is when you do install the new one, do yourself a favor and use something like Boatlife or my favorite 3M 4200. You just need a sealant (as per Airmar) not a polyurethane adhesive.
Old 02-20-2015, 02:56 PM
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Just got back from the boat. The sealant seems to be like a 4200. Soft to the fingernail, but tough as hell. I couldn't find any possible access to a forward bolt unless it's under the inside block.

Great suggestions Pez, I'll give the braid line a try. That does look like the one I have. And I'm glad to hear about it coming out from the bottom side. The engine room access on theses BB Tiaras suck.

I'll keep you all updated.

Another inside pic.
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Old 02-20-2015, 03:09 PM
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I use this
http://www.marineformula.com/

or

http://www.westmarine.com/anti-bond

to remove 5200 or 4200, it makes short work of adhesives
Old 02-20-2015, 04:20 PM
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Originally Posted by slipfit View Post
I couldn't find any possible access to a forward bolt unless it's under the inside block.
There ain't one or I'll eat my hat.
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