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Boat Horn Wiring

Old 10-07-2014, 06:53 PM
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Default Boat Horn Wiring

I recently pulled my printed circuit board (PCB) off the back of my control panel to replace a couple of quick connects. Had a devil of a time trying to find the correct quick connects (female) with soldering pins on them. Anyway, got that done and put back together and on the boat. All equipment and lights worked great, except the horn. Here is where I need a little help/advice.

My boat, if that makes any difference, is a 2003 Polar 19' CC. I want to get a spare replacement PCB eventually, but that is another topic for another post.

I will attach a copy of the back side of my PCB. You will note that the horn input wire comes from the fuse box and the output wire goes to the horn. I tested the input from the fuse box and it is hot.

What puzzles me is the horn switch is not connected to rocker switch panel at all but the above mentioned terminals and wires are on the back side of the switch panel.

The horn switch has two wires. One wire comes from the horn itself and when tested it is not hot. The top terminal on the horn switch has a blue jumper wire that is hot and it connects to the auto-bilge pump terminal on the switch panel. I am assuming that is what gives the auto-bilge a constant hot wire source. However, my horn does not work.

I think I recall seeing a tiny wire around the horn switch terminals when I first looked at my PCB trying to figure out the other problems and I think the wire just crumbled when I started taking the PCB off for repairs. I took pictures of everything else, but that was after the wire crumbled. I know the horn worked before I took on this project as I had used it only days before.

I'm just trying to figure out how to get my horn working again. I'll try and provide a couple of attachments that may help clarify what I'm talking about.

Oops, sorry but when I tried to download a drawing of my PCB I get a message saying the file is too large. Hopefully someone can decipher what I am saying without the drawings.

Marshoaks
Old 10-08-2014, 01:40 PM
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Does your circuit panel show a breaker for the horn? It sounds like the horn was previously jury rigged. What you're describing is not correct as I believe it came from the factory.

Last edited by Team Ruby; 10-08-2014 at 03:03 PM.
Old 10-08-2014, 08:43 PM
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The horn and bilge pump should not be sharing a circuit as they both tend to be somewhat high amp loads. Can you bypass the PCB and just run power to a dedicated horn switch via a suitable breaker or fuse , and then to the horn and horn to neg. ground? Depending on the gauge and length of wiring round trip circuit , and capacity of the switch, you might need to add a relay to safely supply the amps to the horn but probably not on a 19' CC. .
Old 10-09-2014, 05:07 PM
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Yes, there is a fuse on the circuit panel for the horn.
Old 10-09-2014, 05:09 PM
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I'll see what I can figure out to get it off of the bilge pump load.
Old 10-09-2014, 07:55 PM
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I've got a schematic (in a pdf format) for a 2005 Polar. The schematic has the horn on a separate breaker and the horn switch is wired directly to the breaker. From there the switch runs directly to the horn and the other side of the horn goes to ground as TTaxi mentions.

I think the piece of wire that crumbled on you might have been a diode. I have seen on occasion a diode used on the anchor/nav light switch. On the Polar schematic a diode is shown not only on the anchor/nav light switch, but they also show a diode on a multi bilge pump switch. In one position it looks like only one pump is energized and in the other position two pumps are powered up. This sounds like what you're referring to on your bilge switch.

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