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Installing a battery charger

Old 09-30-2014, 07:56 PM
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Default Installing a battery charger

So I just got a new battery charger i'm going to install.
Pro Mariner 1240i


Its a 40 amp 3 bank.

At this point, i'm only charging 1 bank (house 2xAGM) until i swap over my starting banks (lead) to AGMs.

What all do I need??

A plug


A fust block with a 40amp fuse that goes to the battery


Where an i find the 14amp fuse required for the ac plug? I dont have a distribution panel or anything.

thanks
Old 09-30-2014, 08:02 PM
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Originally Posted by sixmassive View Post
So I just got a new battery charger i'm going to install.
Pro Mariner 1240i

Its a 40 amp 3 bank.

At this point, i'm only charging 1 bank (house 2xAGM) until i swap over my starting banks (lead) to AGMs.

What all do I need??

A plug


A fust block with a 40amp fuse that goes to the battery


Where an i find the 14amp fuse required for the ac plug? I dont have a distribution panel or anything.

thanks
I'm reading the 2xAGM as a two (2) bank, how many batteries total in the boat 3 or 4?
You don't really need an ac panel, as long as the charger is not far 2-3' from the a/c inlet.
Is there not a fuse in the charger? Why do you need the 40a fuse?
That is on the DC side not the a/c side.
Old 09-30-2014, 08:12 PM
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Ole, I was gonna stop by today but lost track of time. I'll try and make it by this week!

my house bank is 2x G34 AGM batteries. I then have two other banks (one for each motor). FOr a total of 4 batteries on 3 banks.

I am planning on mounting this in the console, and run an electrical cord from a shore plug. I dont want to install any BS panel. I would just like a fuse or something surface mount type breaker for simplicity.

I was reading the installation directions
http://promariner.com/wp-content/upl...v-B-Manual.pdf

and it says:
ProMariner requires that when making a wire
connection to EACH BATTERY(s) Positive (+) Post, install the positive cable with an over current
protection fuse within 7 inches of connection to the battery or battery connection point. The
fuse rating should be at least 10 amps higher than the rated full output of the charger. See ABYC
E-11 for specific requirements. Over current protection within 7 inches of the charger’s negative
(-) DC output post is not required as the ProTech-i is self limiting and can not exceed its rated
current output. The internal fuses protect the unit against reverse polarity.


then:
Install an appropriate circuit breaker dedicated to the charger at the boat’s electrical panel. Please refer
to the table at the bottom of the page for minimum protective AC fuse or circuit breaker sizes.


Am i Reading all this shit wrong? Or did i get a junk brand charger?
Old 09-30-2014, 11:24 PM
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If you put a 15a ac plug on the boat you don't need an ac fuse, as somewhere up the line is already a 15a breaker

The battery fuse should be 50 or 60a.

You can't fuse a 40a device at 40a. It'll reach 40a.
The mrbfs work we'll. wire charger right to fuse on battery post

Last edited by smac999; 09-30-2014 at 11:37 PM.
Old 10-01-2014, 04:53 AM
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Sorry I must have put in 40 amp vs 50 amp. Typo

What do you mean a 15a ac plug?

Mrbfs? What's that
Old 10-01-2014, 04:55 AM
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Smac999 is right. The suggested amp fuse for the DC should be 50 amps per bank.
There are internal fuses, but those are for the chargers protection.

The manual states the amp draw on this unit is 14 amps AC. 15 amp will work, but it is possible it may trip here and there. Many of my customers who buy this charger have it on a 20 amp AC breaker with GFI.

If you have any tech concerns, contact the factory. They are extremely helpful.

This is one of the best chargers out there. It has been preinstalled in many brands of boats through the years right out of the boat manufacturers facility. Your Starter and house setup is ideal for this charger, but you are wise to make sure you have all AGM's on there. Be sure to jump the unused pos DC banks to the used one. I have sold thousands of them through the years with a return rate well under 1 %
Old 10-01-2014, 05:19 AM
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Hey CHarger guy,

thanks for the reassurance,

When you say a "20amp breaker" you mean this?


is there anything that i dont need a panel to mount it in??

and why would i need a GFI plug?

thanks
Old 10-01-2014, 05:45 AM
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Im thinking i need somthing like this:

Old 10-01-2014, 07:20 AM
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Originally Posted by sixmassive View Post
Hey CHarger guy,

thanks for the reassurance,

When you say a "20amp breaker" you mean this?


is there anything that i dont need a panel to mount it in??

and why would i need a GFI plug?

thanks
I need to clarify a bit here.
Typically these dry mounts get hard wired right into an AC panel with a GFI breaker. GFI is a factory suggestion vs ABYC compliance (not 100% sure if that is required for that reason). I usually suggest the 20 amp only because customers with the 15 amp breaker have told me they get tripping issues because the AC draw at 14 amps is so close.

GFI is suggested for the same reason you have it in your bathroom at your house. Drop a hair dryer in a sink of water and it trips. No GFI and that sink of water is electrified. Now lets translate that to a boat where the charger gets wet, partially submerged, and you jump in the boat & ground yourself. The GFI tripping would prevent electrocution.

Hopefully that clarifies?
Old 10-01-2014, 09:51 AM
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If He is putting a 15a plug on the boat ( first pic) and using a 15a ext cord and plugging into a 15a circuit at his house or dock. He doesn't need breakers on the boat.

If you are plugging into a 30a dock plug you'll need an ac panel on boat with a double pole main. (One in pic doesn't work)
No way 40a 12v charger will draw 14a. More like 5. I don't need 20a breakers till 100a, and even those don't trip 15,s often.
Old 10-01-2014, 10:50 AM
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Smac99

That's right.

I'm not sure the rating of the GFI on the dock.
If I have to add a breaker on the boat, so be it. But I don't want to add an entire panel. Don't they just make a surface mounted breaker?

I can't be on only person in the world who is trying to put a charger in a boat that doesn't have a distributio panel.
Old 10-01-2014, 11:57 AM
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Originally Posted by smac999 View Post
If He is putting a 15a plug on the boat ( first pic) and using a 15a ext cord and plugging into a 15a circuit at his house or dock. He doesn't need breakers on the boat.

If you are plugging into a 30a dock plug you'll need an ac panel on boat with a double pole main. (One in pic doesn't work)
No way 40a 12v charger will draw 14a. More like 5. I don't need 20a breakers till 100a, and even those don't trip 15,s often.
The charger that he has shows the amp draw is 14 amps at 110v at the breaker. The details are in the factory manual. This is why I suggested a 20 amp breaker.
Old 10-01-2014, 11:58 AM
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Originally Posted by sixmassive View Post
Smac99


I can't be on only person in the world who is trying to put a charger in a boat that doesn't have a distributio panel.
No, but usually in cases like yours it is suggested that you get a waterproof unit with all the AC & DC units built into the charger. Just plug in and go.
Old 10-01-2014, 12:04 PM
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So should i take two of the charging banks and wire one to each battery with its own fuse? or just 1 charging bank and do a diagonal tap?

Last edited by sixmassive; 10-01-2014 at 12:56 PM.
Old 10-01-2014, 01:07 PM
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Originally Posted by sixmassive View Post
So should i take two of the charging banks and wire one to each battery with its own fuse? or just 1 charging bank and do a diagonal tap?
Each bank needs it's own fuse off the pos terminal if batteries are connected to it. If you are only using one bank, you need one pos terminal 50 amp fuse. The charger needs to be jumped from bank 3 to bank 2 and then from bank 2 to bank one, assuming you are using bank 1 to connect your batteries. This is done with a jumper wire, which one should have been included with the charger.
Old 10-01-2014, 01:22 PM
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No jumper wires were in the box.

I know i have to jump it, i just don't know if i should run two charging bank wires to the two batteries on the single bank, or just 1 and rely on the batteries being paralleled
Old 10-01-2014, 01:33 PM
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Originally Posted by sixmassive View Post
No jumper wires were in the box.

I know i have to jump it, i just don't know if i should run two charging bank wires to the two batteries on the single bank, or just 1 and rely on the batteries being paralleled
If you have two batteries in parallel, you can connect that to one bank. They just need to be the same make/model/age to charge and discharge evenly.
Old 10-19-2014, 01:29 PM
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Just an update:

Got the charger installed. It it connected to my house bank (2x AGM G34), and it will charge through the ACRs to the other two banks (1 G27 Deep cycle each). I have the Charger set to AGM. Although the charging profile is a little different (.2v Float), and the Absorption time is 1 hour shorter, I think i'll be good.


Lead cell battery
Absorption: 14.4
Float: 13.6

AGM
Absorption: 14.4
Float: 13.8
Old 10-19-2014, 04:21 PM
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Originally Posted by sixmassive View Post
Just an update:

Got the charger installed. It it connected to my house bank (2x AGM G34), and it will charge through the ACRs to the other two banks (1 G27 Deep cycle each). I have the Charger set to AGM. Although the charging profile is a little different (.2v Float), and the Absorption time is 1 hour shorter, I think i'll be good.


Lead cell battery
Absorption: 14.4
Float: 13.6

AGM
Absorption: 14.4
Float: 13.8
You might want to contact the battery mfg. Some batteries need a specific charge profile based on the actual specs vs what the setting is called on the charger itself. I have had customers in the past have one battery type but select another charge profile on the charger because of the battery MFG suggestion.

Good luck!
Old 10-20-2014, 11:13 AM
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Jason thanks for the reccomendation:

Sears AGM G34: Absorption 14.4-14.8V (14.7V optimum) until the charging current drops to almost 0A (up to 4 hours) and not exceeding 15.0V or overcharging, overheating can occur. Float has to be a constant voltage between 13.5-13.8V (13.6V optimum). At less than 13.5V the battery will be pulled down and maintained in an undercharged state causing sulfation and premature failure

Interstate G29 Deep cycle: Absorbtion 15.5v for 2-4 hours, Float voltage 13.2

yikes.

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