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Input Needed on New Battery Setup

Old 09-26-2014, 08:08 PM
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Default Input Needed on New Battery Setup

So Im looking to do some work on my current battery setup. Ive had the boat for a couple years now and I really don't know much of its electrical setup. I feel as though I should, so I want to do some rewiring and set it up the way that I feel comfortable and can understand. I plan on doing the work myself, since I know getting your hands dirty is the best way to learn something. I got the idea from this thread and feel as though Chaps setup is more in line for what I want http://www.thehulltruth.com/boating-...ery-banks.html

My main goal is to keep it simple and understandable. Im very confident in my mechanical work, however with electrical work I have very little knowledge, so Im looking to you guys for recommendations. I drew a draft of what Im currently looking to do. At the stern of the boat I have room for 4 batteries. I want to run two starting batteries on the starboard side and two house batteries on the port side. I have twin Yamaha F250s, so I figured I would run the auxilary charging lead off each engine to each house battery. With this I don't have to worry about any types of isolators/combiners, right?

For the starting batteries, I will have 3 On/Off switches that will allow power to the motors. The third will be a parallel just in case its ever needed. For the house batteries, I would like to run both on a 1/2/All switch. My theory is to have electronics run off one or the other and if ever needed I can combine them. Good Idea or bad? Or would it be better to get the two in parallel and just have a On/Off switch? From the house switch to the console, I will have a circuit breaker and then a dual bus bar/power bar to run all the electronics off of.

Right now my electronics are pretty minimal/average. I have a Ray Marine C120, DSM 300, VHF Radio, radio, a few Bilge pumps, wash down pumps and live well pumps, lights and multiple deep drop reels. In the near future I will be upgrading to dual screens, open array radar, underwater lights and possibly some others. So I want to make sure my house setup is very reliable. I will most likely go with two Interstate starting batteries and two Sears Deep Cycle House batteries. I'm going with these because I have dealers very close to me and so far I see decent reviews for both. My main goal with this setup is simplicity, so any input/recommendations/suggestions etc. you can give would be great. Below are a few questions and my ruff draft of the setup.

- F250 require a minimum reserve capacity of 182. Will having more than 182 only help?
-What type of circuit breakers do you recommend? I was thinking something like this http://www.westmarine.com/buy/blue-s...nt--P011975596
-Do you only need a breaker between the house batteries and the electronics?
-Do the grounds/negative leads coming off the engine get paralled with the negative feeds on the batteries?

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Old 09-27-2014, 04:52 AM
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You're on the right track with this, but the thing I always think about is how to make sure that the house and the starting batteries stay independent of each other and how to make sure everything stays charged, There's a BEP solution that does all of this for you:
http://www.marinco.com/en/717-140a-dvsr
The beauty of this is that is has 2 VSR (voltage sensitive relays) that allow charging of all the batteries, whilst keeping the house and stating batteries completely independent. You can bridge all of them together if required though.

It might be worth a look...
Old 09-27-2014, 05:36 AM
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Originally Posted by CMS_Sprint View Post
You're on the right track with this, but the thing I always think about is how to make sure that the house and the starting batteries stay independent of each other and how to make sure everything stays charged, There's a BEP solution that does all of this for you:
http://www.marinco.com/en/717-140a-dvsr
The beauty of this is that is has 2 VSR (voltage sensitive relays) that allow charging of all the batteries, whilst keeping the house and stating batteries completely independent. You can bridge all of them together if required though.

It might be worth a look...
What do you mean by independent? The way that I interpret this setup is each engine is charging both a starting battery and a house battery while keeping the starting batteries and house batteries separate from each other (independent). The only way I have the house and starting batteries paralleled is through the ground/negative leads.

I like the BEP clusters, but I guess I am under another assumption based on my research. Cant the F250 charge two separate batteries? In this case it will charge the starting battery and a house battery with the auxiliary cable. If so, wouldn't this remove the need for any type of VSR/Isolator/Combiner?

Thanks for jumping in on this.
Old 09-27-2014, 06:38 AM
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I don't have any input on the best way to hook up a twin engine setup (mine's a single), but:

If you want the most capable and long-lived house batteries, they should be hooked together in parallel (positive to positive, negative to negative), making a single larger house bank.
Old 09-27-2014, 08:20 AM
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Originally Posted by s133kgtvr4 View Post

Cant the F250 charge two separate batteries?
.
Sure it can, but when you connect the charging leads to both a house and start battery, they are now connected for all things.

Originally Posted by s133kgtvr4 View Post
What do you mean by independent?
.
Independent means that there is no way for current to flow from the house to start batteries(or the other way around) unless you select the switch to do so, or the engine is charging and then the VSR will allow the charge to happen.

Hopefully this helps...
Old 10-06-2014, 12:03 PM
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I think I will go with that BEP cluster setup. It looks pretty simple and clean.

Can someone provide some input in regards to how the negative feeds need to be setup? Can you parallel all the negatives off the battery and then run one feed to the bus bar in the console for the house?

What type of circuit breaker do you recommend installing, how many and where should they be installed?
Old 10-08-2014, 04:47 AM
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You can tie all your grounds together at the battery compartment and then run a suitable cable up to another grounding bus bar for your house applications. I ran 8AWG up to my center console as there's only about 30A of peak current draw, so there was no need to run anything bigger. Do a quick calculation of the power you will need by looking at the manufactures specs to see what things use. In the case of stereos, divide the total watts by 12 (Ohms law where Amps=Watts*Volts). Choose a suitable sized cable for the current you need to carry.

Here's the chart for wire size:
http://www.boatus.com/boattech/casey...onnections.asp
Add a circuit breaker to match the wire size running up to your house power that matches the wire size you choose, that will protect the run forward, and then the fuse panel will protect the individual devices from there.

Last edited by CMS_Sprint; 10-08-2014 at 04:49 AM. Reason: url error
Old 10-08-2014, 06:52 AM
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As you originally proposed, using the engines charging wires, will keep the house batteries "independent", no need for VSR's. However I would think over the switches a little more. I like having the house batteries able to be paralleled with the start batteries. I would put "1,2,all/off" battery switches the start batteries and a switch on the house batteries that allows connection to each or both of the start batteries so the all batteries can be paralleled. I would probably not separate the house batteries unless there was a special need to separate the electronics. Some people using electric reels a lot like a dedicated reel battery. I use electric reels a lot and don't have a dedicated battery.
Old 10-08-2014, 10:54 AM
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You do not need anything additional to what you have in your OP. The Yamaha engines have separate charging for the main (starting) and auxiliary (house) banks, with isolator separation built in. No VSRs needed.

I have used the same setup on our boat since 2005, and it is very robust. Our system has an On/Off for the house bank and the usual 1-2-both-off for each of the starting batteries, so either or both batteries can start either engine.

House bank not connected by switch to starting batteries. Never needed.

Our OEM charger is 3-bank, so that covers both starting batteries and the house bank.

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