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Electronics wiring

Old 09-12-2014, 08:37 PM
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Default Electronics wiring

I just purchased a used boat with my dad and i am in the process of re-wiring the boat.

Currently i have 1 Seasense LED 6 Gang Switch Panel.

Here is what i have:

Lowrance HDS 8 gen2
SonicHub
Cobra VHF
Manual Bilge pump
Running lights
Anchor lights
Spreader light
Spotlight
Underwater lights.

I plan on putting Nav and Anchor lights on 1 of the switches, but i am not sure if i can hook up HDS and SonicHub to same switch or is it better to keep them separate?

Last edited by chito24; 09-12-2014 at 08:38 PM. Reason: Typo
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Old 09-12-2014, 09:10 PM
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I would suggest keeping nav and anchor lights on separate switches, because when you are at anchor, only the white anchor light should be turned on. If your nav lights are also on, it is assumed by other vessels that you are underway. So they are best to be on separate switches.

It would be fine to run the HDS+ cobra direct to the -and + bus bars behind the dash, as they have their own on/off switches. I think that you can also connect the sonic hub direct to power, and if you then connect the yellow "wake up" wire from the HDS to the yellow on the sonic hub, it will turn on when the HDS is turned on.

That leaves you free to use the 6 switches on your switch panel for all the lights that dont have their own inbuilt switches:
1. Nav lights
2. Anchor lights
3. Bilge pump
4 spreader lights
5 spot lights
6 underwater lights

Hope that helps.
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Old 09-12-2014, 10:43 PM
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Moonlighter475,

Thank You for the advice.

I was thinking of doing that but everywhere i have seen diagrams or read posts it says to connect them to a SW panel so that's why i was going it that way. I understand why but since i am a new to boating i like to research, read then make an informed decision.

THT is an amazing site with a lot of information and and plenty of members willing to help.
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Old 09-13-2014, 02:55 AM
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Could also use a three-way switch for nav lights- up anchor, middle off and nav lights. If you need to save room on panel
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Old 09-13-2014, 08:09 AM
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Use a SPDT (on-off-on)switch for nav/anchor. A properly placed diode will allow the white light to be turned on for anchor and all of them for running.

Last edited by Bob Landry; 09-20-2014 at 05:51 AM.
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Old 09-13-2014, 09:20 AM
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Bob-
should the white all-around light even be on while running? is that even legal?

also, won't a series diode cause a voltage drop? all diodes do...typically 0.7vdc, which will cause some lamp dimming, perhaps not significant, though.
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Old 09-14-2014, 02:39 AM
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I am assuming that the US, like Australia, follows the international COLREGS.

That being the case, a white allround must be lit at night when a vessel is underway. Atermatively, white stern light and masthead style light which, in combination, achieves 360 degrees of white light.

They get called "anchor lights" because a white allround must be on while the vessel is at anchor. Somewhat a misleading name because people then mistakenly are lead to assume that they are only for use while at anchor.

Hope this helps.
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Old 09-14-2014, 08:55 AM
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Originally Posted by Bob Landry View Post
Use a SPDT (on-off-on)switch for nav/anchor. A properly placed diode will allow the white light to be turned on for anchor and all of them for running.
or use a DPDT switch and do away with the diode...

Also I would put the electronics on an ATC fuse panel and feed it off it's own main breaker straight off the battery switch, save the switches on the dash for stuff you actually want to control, the electronics all have power buttons
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Old 09-14-2014, 11:35 AM
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If you add a radar and/or an autopilot, these could need switches . I would shoot for a panel with a few extra switches or use two 4 gang or your six gang an a additional 4 gang. What about a raw water wash down pump? Bait well circulating pump?
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Old 09-14-2014, 12:11 PM
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Originally Posted by knotreel View Post
If you add a radar and/or an autopilot, these could need switches . I would shoot for a panel with a few extra switches or use two 4 gang or your six gang an a additional 4 gang. What about a raw water wash down pump? Bait well circulating pump?
i would not recommend putting your sounder and radar on a. Dedicated switch, like I said put all the electronics on a central distribution fuse or breaker panel away from the weather and the possibility of inadvertently turning them off while in use....
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Old 09-14-2014, 12:12 PM
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I prefer these on all my installs....
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Old 09-14-2014, 12:30 PM
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With 12 fused circuits, the 10-32 bus studs look awful small to me, unless the fuses are for only very light current loads. #12 or even 1/4" bus screws would seem more appropriate.

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Old 09-14-2014, 12:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Karl in NY View Post
With 12 fused circuits, the 10-32 bus studs look awful small to me, unless the fuses are for only very light current loads. #12 or even 1/4" bus screws would seem more appropriate.
rated at 100A total, you'll never see that with a lowrance system... Now a big high current system I'd spec resettable breakers on a panel well away from an area where they could be bumped off... The key is circuit protection. Most of the navico equipment is fused at 3A, no issue with that panel in the OPs set up
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