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Electronics Fuse Panel Wiring Question;

Old 08-17-2014, 11:48 AM
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Default Electronics Fuse Panel Wiring Question;

Electronics Fuse Panel Wiring Question;

From My Panel Switch, my Electronics wiring goes to my Hard Tops Electronic Box, and is hooked to the BusBars panel... where I had my VHF Radio and e120 hooked to this...

I am going to connect my new e125 to this BusBars panel along with the VHF Radio...

NEXT:
I need to add a Six Fuse Block down in the cabin where I am installing;

CP100 Chirp Module
CP200 Chirp Module
HS5 SeaTalk HS Network Switch
DSM 300 Module

QUESTION:
If I run wiring from the Panel Switch to a new Six Fuse Block in the cabin, will this be the same as if I connected everything in the Hard Tops BusBars panel.. just relocated to the cabin?

I would appreciate some input.

Thanks
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Old 08-17-2014, 12:06 PM
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Try using one of these. It will keep things clean and you can fuse everything.. That way if you ever have an issue you can trouble shoot a lot easier.
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Old 08-17-2014, 12:20 PM
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I have a Six Panel of those now...

I am adding another Six Panel down below by the new electronics modules...

Photos of my wiring, and panels..
http://www.thehulltruth.com/marine-e...witch-etc.html

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Old 08-17-2014, 02:08 PM
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I don't like the crimps that you made on the power leads coming into the panel...

Those crimps are not the best to properly hold the wiring in the connector. Maybe good to use on solid wire(not good in a boat), but you are losing connectivity to the connector with stranded wire. You could probably just add another crimp at the base of the connectors.

It also wouldn't hurt to use shrink connectors to help keep moisture from wicking up into the connection and failing early. It appears as if some of those you used are that type, but don't appear to be shrinked. Those connectors as well as a heat gun can be had at HarborFreight cheaply.

You don't need ratcheting crimper, but you should change them to a circle crimp.
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Old 08-17-2014, 02:22 PM
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If you haven't be sure you calculate the amperage draw for those devices and run the appropriate size wire to the fuse block.
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Old 08-17-2014, 04:05 PM
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The above is not the fuse block for the electronics...

I posted that to show the fuse block I will be using for the modules...

The wiring is and will be the right size... #4 to the Block and #10 from the switch..

The question was if the proper way to connect the wiring to the BusBar and fuse panel would be to take it from the Panel Switch that is now being used for my old electronics...

Thanks for your response...
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Old 08-17-2014, 04:07 PM
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Thanks for your advice on the circle crimps, I need to pick up a set.



Originally Posted by triumphrick View Post
I don't like the crimps that you made on the power leads coming into the panel...

Those crimps are not the best to properly hold the wiring in the connector. Maybe good to use on solid wire(not good in a boat), but you are losing connectivity to the connector with stranded wire. You could probably just add another crimp at the base of the connectors.

It also wouldn't hurt to use shrink connectors to help keep moisture from wicking up into the connection and failing early. It appears as if some of those you used are that type, but don't appear to be shrinked. Those connectors as well as a heat gun can be had at HarborFreight cheaply.

You don't need ratcheting crimper, but you should change them to a circle crimp.
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Old 08-17-2014, 07:38 PM
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If I understand you properly I would not wire my new 6 position fuse block in the Cabin from the power buss in the Electronics box up above. Run a new power feed directly to the new fuse block to keep the power run as short as possible.

Jim
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Old 08-17-2014, 10:26 PM
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I'm not saying you're doing it wrong (except for your choice of connectors), but this is one way to do it:
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Old 08-18-2014, 03:49 AM
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The question was about the switch and running the wiring to the new box position from the switch panel box.... not the connectors...

These are mine



These came on the boat


This is how it will look



~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ `



Originally Posted by Flying_Norseman View Post
I'm not saying you're doing it wrong (except for your choice of connectors), but this is one way to do it:

Last edited by NTGator; 08-18-2014 at 04:07 AM.
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Old 08-18-2014, 04:00 AM
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Hi Jim

I am not running the wiring from the Top Buss....
I would like to know if the proper way would be to take it directly from the Panel Switch Below where the Top Buss connects at the Below Panel Switch....

all other buss bars are always hot...
The wiring to the switch is hot, but the wiring to the electronics turns on and off by this panel switch...

So I can screw on another wire and run it to the new six fuse box which is about the same amount of wire distance run...

Then I can shut off the current with the electronics switch in the panel box which is located under the steering wheel where all the other switches to the boat are located on deck...

Originally Posted by jfwireless View Post
If I understand you properly I would not wire my new 6 position fuse block in the Cabin from the power buss in the Electronics box up above. Run a new power feed directly to the new fuse block to keep the power run as short as possible.

Jim
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Old 08-18-2014, 06:58 AM
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Originally Posted by NTGator View Post
Hi Jim

I am not running the wiring from the Top Buss....
I would like to know if the proper way would be to take it directly from the Panel Switch Below where the Top Buss connects at the Below Panel Switch....

all other buss bars are always hot...
The wiring to the switch is hot, but the wiring to the electronics turns on and off by this panel switch...

So I can screw on another wire and run it to the new six fuse box which is about the same amount of wire distance run...

Then I can shut off the current with the electronics switch in the panel box which is located under the steering wheel where all the other switches to the boat are located on deck...
OK, understood. You can do that but make sure of the following:

The switch is rated for the full current draw of all wired to it
Make sure the breaker feeding the switch is rated for the full current draw of all wired to it
If the breaker and switch are rated for the full current draw of all wired to them than the wiring should be just fine as well.

Jim
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Old 08-18-2014, 07:07 AM
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Yes, I was talking with a friend about that yesterday....

I was wondering if there was a better way of connecting the new electronics, as listed above?

Thanks for your reply

Originally Posted by jfwireless View Post
OK, understood. You can do that but make sure of the following:

The switch is rated for the full current draw of all wired to it
Make sure the breaker feeding the switch is rated for the full current draw of all wired to it
If the breaker and switch are rated for the full current draw of all wired to them than the wiring should be just fine as well.

Jim
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Old 08-18-2014, 04:28 PM
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Originally Posted by NTGator View Post
Thanks for your advice on the circle crimps, I need to pick up a set.
Sorry, I didn't mean to pile on about the crimps...I see that few here answered your original question....

Good to see Jim provide some quality answers...
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Old 08-18-2014, 04:36 PM
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That's OK, it made me look at some crimpers like the
Hydraulic Wire Crimping Tool
http://www.harborfreight.com/hydraul...ool-66150.html

So ALL Input is welcome, thats how one learns off of others experience...

So which crimper do you have?


Originally Posted by triumphrick View Post
Sorry, I didn't mean to pile on about the crimps...I see that few here answered your original question....

Good to see Jim provide some quality answers...
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Old 08-18-2014, 05:31 PM
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Originally Posted by NTGator View Post
That's OK, it made me look at some crimpers like the
Hydraulic Wire Crimping Tool
http://www.harborfreight.com/hydraul...ool-66150.html

So ALL Input is welcome, thats how one learns off of others experience...

So which crimper do you have?
We have several. One of them is for crimping 1/0 battery wire and has 3' long handles!

My son has a stereo business and some of these are tools we share. I have some Klein crimpers I use for non-insulated terminals, but I like a ratcheting tool carried by Terminal Supply Company. We also have one of the Harbor Freight hydraulic crimpers that does a very good job for the money....

When done, you want your crimp to be even across the front of the terminal.
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Old 08-29-2014, 06:50 AM
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Looks like I'm good to go on the
Electronics Power

The Main Panel switch is a ;

Circuit Switch 34-30A


After calculating all the max amperage, I came up with 22.45 amps.
The switch and 10 awg wire will both do 30 amps.
The max you will switch is 75% of the power to the instrument panel when the switch is on.

3 amp - display
5 amp - Radome
0.2 amp - seatalk
0.25 amp - downvision
1 amp - side vision
8 amp - sonar
5 amp - radio
------
Equals = 22.45 amps

KVH AutoComp1000P does not say, but is must me very low amp

So I should even have room for another component or two....




.
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Old 08-29-2014, 08:15 AM
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NTGator

You will like that crimper from Harbor Freight I have one and it has done very well, good cost point as well for the quality.

Just in case your interested I saw one on E Bay that was one size larger that would do larger battery cables.
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Old 08-29-2014, 08:39 AM
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Originally Posted by FoReel View Post
NTGator

You will like that crimper from Harbor Freight I have one and it has done very well, good cost point as well for the quality.

Just in case your interested I saw one on E Bay that was one size larger that would do larger battery cables.

Thanks HF had a good sale and an extra 25% off so I got one...
Cost was only $39.74 with discounts

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Old 08-29-2014, 08:45 AM
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NTGator;

Thats it!...I recently did some of what you are doing as well. I found some very good prices and delivery at Genuine Dealz. From large cable crimps, shrink wrap, and wire I felt the prices were very good. And there shrink wrap works great.

http://www.genuinedealz.com/

Last edited by FoReel; 08-29-2014 at 12:33 PM. Reason: Grammar
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