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Newbie Switch Panel & Wiring Questions

Old 08-14-2013, 10:06 AM
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Default Newbie Switch Panel & Wiring Questions

I need to redo the wiring in my center console. It has old ghetto wiring that isn't fused and the little switch panel has different switches in it. It has 3 On/Off switches, (bilge, baitwell pump, one that doesn't work, and a switch that controls my tilt/trim. I think that is what you call a Momentary On (up) - Off - Momentary On (down) but correct me if I'm wrong. I want to clean the area up for as cheap as possible and with as little clutter as possible.

I have some basic newbie questions. Some I think I know the answer to but want to confirm.
1) What does "gang" refer to on a panel? The number of switches?
2) What does 2-way, 3-way, etc mean? On/off and on/off/on, right? What are the Mom. On/Mom. Off switches called?
3) Do I need a bus block/fuse panel/ or just inline fuses? Anything else?

Here's what I want to do...
New panel with switches for:

Bilge pump (on/off)
Baitwell pump (on/off)
Stereo (on/off)
Nav lights with anchor light. Can I use on/off or do I have to use a on/off/both?
Tilt/trim (what kind do I need?)

I also need to put in a new 12vt plug for charging the ipod. Do I need a switch for this too?

I've seen the Seasense panel with 5 switches and a 12 vt socket. Can this be used? I didn't think it can because of the tilt/trim switch that is needed.

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Everything runs straight to the battery.
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Old 08-14-2013, 06:09 PM
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1) Yes
2) Yes - momentary switches
3) Yes - A BlueSeas fuse block like this: http://www.bluesea.com/products/5025..._Bus_and_Cover

You run one positive and one negative from the battery to feed the fuse block and feed each component from there - including whatever is switched from the panel.

Don't know what a Seasense panel is but here is a Blueseas panel:
http://www.bluesea.com/products/8053...ion-Slate_Gray

The switches are standard so you can swap what ever particular switch you need.

Cheap as possible isn't good for wiring a boat. Getting quality components including tinned wire and marine connectors are a must. I use www.genuinedealz.com
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Old 08-14-2013, 06:55 PM
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It is hard to see exactly what is going on there, but you should have a battery switch to start. The cable between the battery switch and batt is the only cable that should be attached to the batt. Then you can have a lead coming off the other side of the battery switch to your first switch. This should have a fuse or circuit breaker in it. Then a jumper from switch to switch for the positive. It would be way easier to just buy a pre made fuse panel like this http://boemarine.ecomm-search.com/re...sition-grey%2F

You can then load all the right switches into a panel like this. For example, for your bilge pump you moght ise this switch
http://www.boemarine.com/blue-sea-41...toggle-switch/

This swith has off, on, and a momentary (spring loaded) on. When a position of the switch is momentary it has brackets around it in the description like this Off (on)
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Old 08-15-2013, 07:40 AM
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Originally Posted by sickcat View Post
1) Yes
2) Yes - momentary switches
3) Yes - A BlueSeas fuse block like this: http://www.bluesea.com/products/5025..._Bus_and_Cover

You run one positive and one negative from the battery to feed the fuse block and feed each component from there - including whatever is switched from the panel.

Don't know what a Seasense panel is but here is a Blueseas panel:
http://www.bluesea.com/products/8053...ion-Slate_Gray

The switches are standard so you can swap what ever particular switch you need.

Cheap as possible isn't good for wiring a boat. Getting quality components including tinned wire and marine connectors are a must. I use www.genuinedealz.com
I like that panel! If I'm running a fuse block I don't need a switch panel with fuses though do I?
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Old 08-15-2013, 07:43 AM
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Originally Posted by yachtjim View Post
It is hard to see exactly what is going on there, but you should have a battery switch to start. The cable between the battery switch and batt is the only cable that should be attached to the batt. Then you can have a lead coming off the other side of the battery switch to your first switch. This should have a fuse or circuit breaker in it. Then a jumper from switch to switch for the positive. It would be way easier to just buy a pre made fuse panel like this http://boemarine.ecomm-search.com/re...sition-grey%2F

You can then load all the right switches into a panel like this. For example, for your bilge pump you moght ise this switch
http://www.boemarine.com/blue-sea-41...toggle-switch/

This swith has off, on, and a momentary (spring loaded) on. When a position of the switch is momentary it has brackets around it in the description like this Off (on)
Jim,

Do I need a battery switch if I'm running my power and ground wire to a fuse block? If so, why? Is there any other reason besides being able to completely shut off power to everything?
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Old 08-15-2013, 07:51 AM
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Correct - with a fuse block you don't need fuses/breakers in the switch panel.

A battery switch is a good idea so you can kill power to everything.
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Old 08-15-2013, 12:49 PM
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Sorry if this sounds dumb. Like I said I'm a newbie. So I'd run power and neg. to the fuse block from the battery. Then I'd have to run a separate power wire from each fuse to each switch and then one from the switch to the accessory I'm using, right? Or can you run certain low amp items off of the same fuse?
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Old 08-15-2013, 01:35 PM
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Is this right?

If so, what do I use for the negative ground? A negative bus bar or what? Then do I ground that back to the fuse panel or back to the battery?

Also, assuming my switches are lighted I would run the negative from the switch and splice it into the negative coming off of each accessory, right? Or do I have to run the negative from each switch the the negative ground?
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Old 08-15-2013, 01:40 PM
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Old 05-02-2016, 05:48 PM
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Can someone please confirm if the above image is correct?
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Old 05-03-2016, 12:36 AM
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The referenced dwg. is ok but the neg. side will be determined by what type of fuse block you get. For example:
Amazon Amazon

is what I have, the neg. bus is built into the block so both positive and neg. go to it. Another way would be to have a separate bus for the neg. side, and have a fuse block without the neg. bus incorporated.
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