svloki

Hello all, This is my first post here. Long time reader.

I have an old Furuno FCV-582l LCD fish finder that experienced the classic screen damage noted in other threads. The main characteristic is a "melted" or blistered look to the screen surface. This problem is seen on many other makes of marine LCD screens, and I think this fix will suit most.

As noted on another thread, there is a company offering to do the Furuno repair for 400 USD. I personally felt my old unit was not worth that investment. So nothing to loose, off I went in search of a good hack for the Furuno.

The problem is damage to the polarization filter, which is adhered to the LCD glass panel. With direct sun exposure, especially the sort of sun we get down here at the equator, many of these screens come to an untimely end. The good news is, you can replace the filter yourself. Just takes a few hours of time, and some patience.

So, here is my breakdown of what to do to get your old screen back working, on the cheap.

Things you need:

Clean, well lit work area
Phillips screwdrivers, various sizes
Small cotton rags, as dust free as possible
Acetone
Matte finish Polarizing Film, with adhesive backing, (do a google search, it is easy to find)
Razor blades
Plastic squeegee or rubber roller (preferred)
Sharp scissors


Procedure:

Download all the manuals from Furuno, and study the parts breakdown carefully.

Disassemble the unit, noting types and sizes of screws. If you have ever taken apart a laptop, this will be easy. Small cups help to keep things separate. Taking pics along the way is not a bad idea.

Once you get down to the display module, carefully unplug the ribbon connector and the power plug for the light. Unscrew the backlight assembly from the screen. Lift the whole screen unit out, being very careful to protect the back side of the unit (it is easy to scratch that film)

Take a close look at the outside facing surface, you will see that there is a layer of thick greyish plastic film stuck to the glass. This is the problem. It needs to be peeled off carefully. Start with a razor blade in one corner, and gently peel it back with your fingers. Do not flex the glass as you do this, or you get to shop for a new fish finder.

On the FCV-582L, there is a second film, of clear plastic. This is not a polarizing filter, and I have no idea what it is for. Mine was heat damaged, so I peeled it off as well. The unit seems to work fine without this film. Strange.

Still not cursing or bleeding? OK, next, carefully clean the glass using acetone, and your little cotton rags. The adhesive itself has a very foul odor for some reason. It actually seems quite toxic, you will see what I mean as soon as you start peeling. Wear surgical gloves. Get all the residue off the glass. The glass is attached to the metal frame with some sort of black adhesive on the edge. Be careful with the acetone, it would not be a good idea to disturb this bond.

Once you think the screen is totally clean and dust free, clean it again.

Next it is time to fit the new filter. This is again not difficult, just tedious. The new filter will have an adhesive backing, and you will need to cut it to fit with scissors. Peel off the backing, and stick it on. I wont go into the details, because it is very similar to the Ipad screen protectors, those you can find endless info online about how to install.

Once your satisfied, put it all back together, being careful that you don't bend those delicate connector pins on the two halves. A bit of silicone gel is a great addition on the o-rings and screws to help keep the sea out.

If you made it this far, power it up, and have a beer to celebrate your cheapness, green-ness, and awesome skills.

Best luck!

Bruce
SV Loki
Singapore

Pro251wa

Bruce hasn't been around for over two years, but after my ex-mechanic left my helm uncovered for two days facing the SW Florida sun and the lcd portion of my gauges burned, Bruce's thread popped up when searching the world wide interweb to see if the lcd screen is repairable. Bruce's post led me to some discussions on other boards regarding the same.

I won't be at my boat for a few more weeks, but I'll post the results of my efforts when available.

Thanks Bruce!

svloki

Hi Pro251wa

Your welcome. Hope you have success. I have done a few of these repairs now, and all seem to work as good as the original film. Cheap fix if you are handy with electronics.

Bruce

Pro251wa

Wow Bruce! Maybe I misread your activity page but I didn't think you'd been around since that first post! Excellent!

Hey, over at Club SeaRay I posted for help before I found your post and got nothing. This happened in June and I refused to believe there was no repair. Until just recently I thought it was a bad lcd, but I can see activity through the brown burned film and since have learned it's indeed the film. I'm away from the boat for two more weeks but man I'm itching to get at the gauges. Your thread along with another at a PWC website have given me full confidence this fix will solve the problem. Saves me $1000..!

Do you have a recommendation for the type of film I should get? There are so many on ebay and the agent at edmunds scientific was clueless.

Thanks for your help and welcome back! Btw, there are now over 300 views on the Club SeaRay site so this info is clearly in short supply.

Edit: I bot some material from a place in texas. LCD-grade, UV retardant.

jster

Hey Bruce, could use your help! I went thru the steps, almost got it. must have been the wrong type of film. i have a furuno adjusting the bril and tone i can see the image only on one setting and its not very bright. I could use your help getting the right type of film and where to get it. Your time would be greatly appreciated.

Its just me

I'm having the same issue with my 582L and read these posts. I contacted
Polarization.com
explained the situation and here is their response. I'm on Gmail, so the latest is at the top.
I ordered PFHC-AG/HC
I'll let you know the results in a few weeks.

John

Hello

We have many clients who repair LCDs damaged by the sun (e.g. Sea Doo's, Corvettes, motorcycles). I know some have repaired fish finders.

Most LCD's (99%) just require a linear polarizer (the other 1% also require a wave retarder). Most likely you can use any of these films to repair yours:

PFA-AD: http://polarization.com/polarshop/pr...o.php?cPath=21 (glossy finish, least expensive)

PFHC-AG/HC: http://polarization.com/polarshop/pr...products_id=32 (anti-glare finish: best to read under the sun)

PFHDU: http://polarization.com/polarshop/pr...products_id=46 (hig-temperature, high-durability).

Note that you need to align the film correctly. In most cases (but not always) the transmission axis will be vertical.
I don't recommend acetone to clean the old polarizer adhesive. Use instead a citric-based adhesive remover (like Goo Gone) and a razor blade (and elbow grease).

Regards,

George
[email protected]

On 5/5/2016 10:42 AM, John Ells wrote:
Good morning.
I'm hoping you have seen this question before. I have a Furono depth/fishfinder and apparently the polorizing/self adhesive film failed. The film fails when left in direct sunlight or is overheated.
A thread on Thehulltruth.com provided a possible way to replace it, but gave no vendor for the replacement film.
http://www.thehulltruth.com/marine-e...epair-diy.html

Your catalog seems extensive and should have something that will work for me (and others). What is your recommendation?

John Ells
210 Mizzen Ct
Merritt Island, Fl. 32953
321-453-2078

Its just me

Well, I got the 582L down to the screen. Not much of a challenge except locking in a tape connector when reassembling.
I used the Goo Gone and it worked great. Smear it around, wait and starting carefully removing the old with a razor blade. Took 20 minutes. I used eyeglass cleaner, thinking this should be proper since I clean plastic glasses. The polarize mylar company suggested soap and water, that woud have done better. Everything looked proper and laid down the polarized mylar. Only a few tiny bubbles.
Reassembled and took it down to the boat, fired it up and the display was more orange. Electronics still work. I don't know if that is a result of the Goo Gone (it's orange). I did have a small setback, the case was last reassembled by someone without a gasket and the interior has some corrosion. I don't quit easily, so I'll try again, clean up the corrosion and fabricate a gasket or O ring.
Once more into the breach dear friends!

Chesfish

I did the same attempt, turns out the screen also has a layer on the inside that was damaged in mine. Also all the polarizers aren't the same, the funny color is because the angle is different in the polarizer, I had the exact same problem. Guy at the marina recommended Hyde Marine Instrumentation. I emailed him and got lot's of information. Mailed my unit to him partially dissembled, they repaired it and sent it back in 3 days. $270 and included the shipping. They have a website Hydemarineinstrumentation.com He has new and re-manufactured screens for most everything Furuno and Garmin. They also replaced something and fixed my dark screen issue.

Sorry to go on and on but was very happy to have my 582L working again after years and numerous attempts for repairs!! Those guys are top notch and have a warranty!!

Chesfish

jcao111

Hi Chesfish
do you have a phone number for Hyde Marine Instrumentation? Seems they don't reply to my email and no phone number to call them on webpage.

Cheers.

Chesfish

I hope you got your unit repaired, I don't have a number. He did call me after I emailed him and sent my unit in for repair.

Its just me

I looked at the case and it has signs of corrosion. Last person in it did not use a gasket or sealant. I bought a used one on eBay for a very good price, works very well. I'll put the old one on eBay soon (too dang hot in Florida to do much!).

Iceman44875

[QUOTE=svloki;5910671]Hello all, This is my first post here. Long time reader.

I have an old Furuno FCV-582l LCD fish finder that experienced the classic screen damage noted in other threads. The main characteristic is a "melted" or blistered look to the screen surface. This problem is seen on many other makes of marine LCD screens, and I think this fix will suit most.

As noted on another thread, there is a company offering to do the Furuno repair for 400 USD. I personally felt my old unit was not worth that investment. So nothing to loose, off I went in search of a good hack for the Furuno.

The problem is damage to the polarization filter, which is adhered to the LCD glass panel. With direct sun exposure, especially the sort of sun we get down here at the equator, many of these screens come to an untimely end. The good news is, you can replace the filter yourself. Just takes a few hours of time, and some patience.

So, here is my breakdown of what to do to get your old screen back working, on the cheap.

Things you need:

Clean, well lit work area
Phillips screwdrivers, various sizes
Small cotton rags, as dust free as possible
Acetone
Matte finish Polarizing Film, with adhesive backing, (do a google search, it is easy to find)
Razor blades
Plastic squeegee or rubber roller (preferred)
Sharp scissors


Procedure:

Download all the manuals from Furuno, and study the parts breakdown carefully.

Disassemble the unit, noting types and sizes of screws. If you have ever taken apart a laptop, this will be easy. Small cups help to keep things separate. Taking pics along the way is not a bad idea.

Once you get down to the display module, carefully unplug the ribbon connector and the power plug for the light. Unscrew the backlight assembly from the screen. Lift the whole screen unit out, being very careful to protect the back side of the unit (it is easy to scratch that film)

Take a close look at the outside facing surface, you will see that there is a layer of thick greyish plastic film stuck to the glass. This is the problem. It needs to be peeled off carefully. Start with a razor blade in one corner, and gently peel it back with your fingers. Do not flex the glass as you do this, or you get to shop for a new fish finder.

On the FCV-582L, there is a second film, of clear plastic. This is not a polarizing filter, and I have no idea what it is for. Mine was heat damaged, so I peeled it off as well. The unit seems to work fine without this film. Strange.

Still not cursing or bleeding? OK, next, carefully clean the glass using acetone, and your little cotton rags. The adhesive itself has a very foul odor for some reason. It actually seems quite toxic, you will see what I mean as soon as you start peeling. Wear surgical gloves. Get all the residue off the glass. The glass is attached to the metal frame with some sort of black adhesive on the edge. Be careful with the acetone, it would not be a good idea to disturb this bond.

Once you think the screen is totally clean and dust free, clean it again.

Next it is time to fit the new filter. This is again not difficult, just tedious. The new filter will have an adhesive backing, and you will need to cut it to fit with scissors. Peel off the backing, and stick it on. I wont go into the details, because it is very similar to the Ipad screen protectors, those you can find endless info online about how to install.

Once your satisfied, put it all back together, being careful that you don't bend those delicate connector pins on the two halves. A bit of silicone gel is a great addition on the o-rings and screws to help keep the sea out.

If you made it this far, power it up, and have a beer to celebrate your cheapness, green-ness, and awesome skills.

Best luck!

Bruce
SV Loki
Singapore[/QUOT

What size or thickness did you use? Did you have the blue side facing you?