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Anchor Winch Problem - Help!

Old 07-29-2013, 10:21 AM
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Default Anchor Winch Problem - Help!

Winch has worked well for months, I had another Captain run the boat on Saturday and he said the 1st trip the winch worked fine, on 2nd trip the winch "stopped working" when they tried to pull it.

Had to pull it by hand. No Fun! My red knob pushes on and off with the red light showing, I hear a little click to the grey round relay below my helm, but I can't see of find a fuse or a trip relay switch that pops out, not sure what my problem is?

Could the winch just burn out? Or maybe I blew a fuse? Any help would be great. Its a 28ft Albin that has a white anchor winch. Thanks for any replys/Help. Jim
Old 07-29-2013, 04:02 PM
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There is a breaker involved in there somewhere. Source of problem could be the guy tried to pull the boat with the winch and break out the anchor with it too (don't do that!); if something is actually broken could be a bad solenoid or relay, or messed up gearbox, all fixable.
Old 07-29-2013, 10:04 PM
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Apparently you are really referring to the anchor windlass. At least some 28's had Lewmar(Simpson Lawrence) windlasses though I expect a number of other makes have surely been installed. As clatexflanc suggests, chances seem reasonably good your 2nd capt. overloaded the windlass circuit by hauling rode without 1st powering up over the anchor, but who knows.

If it was a broken gear, you should still be able to hear the motor run ( at least if it's not jammed). If not , check to see where you still have power.
It sounds like the switch at least is still able to energize and send power to the contactor primary circuit .
Is the relay you mention the main contactor?

There may be a high amp breaker near there or on the panel or near the windlass, plus there may be a main inline (ceramic?)fuse or breaker in that heavy gauge secondary circuit within 8 or so inches of the battery that supplies it ( or it's battery switch) to help protect the wiring in the whole circuit.

This probably isn't your windlass, but it includes a wiring diagram that may be generic enough to give you some clues as to where/what to look for. Don't neglect to check secondary circuit ground connections too.
http://www.lewmar.com/assets/img/dat...20diagrams.pdf
Old 07-30-2013, 10:54 PM
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Thanks guys for your reply. I have a mawell switch set up and its all good power and working to the windless so I guess its the motor.

If it is what could it be? The motor shot or something else? It is in fact a Lewmar and I have full power to the windlass.

I am sure my 2nd Captain ran the windless full bor and put a strain on the windless. Its the motor or bushings I guess.

Not sure what to do from here on out? Get a new $1k winch or try and get this one fixed? I need that winch to work asap. Thanks again for all the replys.... Jim
Old 07-31-2013, 12:10 AM
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You mention the Maxwell switch- If it's a Maxwell perhaps you can find your model here:
http://www.maxwellmarine.com/gen_which_winch.php They list some obsolete models too.

If you find it, look for the manual if you really don't have one with the boat:
http://www.maxwellmarine.com/support_manuals.php
They have parts diagrams and lists and electrical diagrams.

But you do say "It is in fact a Lewmar". What model Lewmar? Did you find the manual?




If you have confirmed you have both + power right to the motor AND confirmed good ground connection from the motor but the motor does not spin , I would remove the motor to test again then contact the windlass manufacturer or nearest dealer to see if parts are still available. If so swap them out. If the removed motor was not working, I think I'd have to open it up to look for burned windings or worn brushes (if any) and test windings for continuity. But as a long shot there may even be an external thermal overload reset button or similar device on the motor to check . Even if it doesn't spin , does it get warm/hot when powered?

If the motor works when out, figure out what else is jammed in the windlass mechanicals. One way or another ,while you are at it you might as well open up the mechanical side and grease/lube as per the manual for annual or periodic maintenance that may be long overdue.

If you aren't comfortable with that and need it done fast and right, just take it to a good large boat yard with your credit card and ask them to do what they do.
Old 07-31-2013, 06:54 AM
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Originally Posted by TTaxi View Post
You mention the Maxwell switch- If it's a Maxwell perhaps you can find your model here:
http://www.maxwellmarine.com/gen_which_winch.php They list some obsolete models too.

If you find it, look for the manual if you really don't have one with the boat:
http://www.maxwellmarine.com/support_manuals.php
They have parts diagrams and lists and electrical diagrams.

But you do say "It is in fact a Lewmar". What model Lewmar? Did you find the manual?




If you have confirmed you have both + power right to the motor AND confirmed good ground connection from the motor but the motor does not spin , I would remove the motor to test again then contact the windlass manufacturer or nearest dealer to see if parts are still available. If so swap them out. If the removed motor was not working, I think I'd have to open it up to look for burned windings or worn brushes (if any) and test windings for continuity. But as a long shot there may even be an external thermal overload reset button or similar device on the motor to check . Even if it doesn't spin , does it get warm/hot when powered?

If the motor works when out, figure out what else is jammed in the windlass mechanicals. One way or another ,while you are at it you might as well open up the mechanical side and grease/lube as per the manual for annual or periodic maintenance that may be long overdue.

If you aren't comfortable with that and need it done fast and right, just take it to a good large boat yard with your credit card and ask them to do what they do.
thanks for all the great info. We have good power to the motor. Can't find the manual, but my friend says its a Lewmar windless.

I will take a picture of it today. It looks a little small for my size boat and the bay I anchor in. It did work good for me tho when i used it. I was very easy on it and not sure my 2nd captain was. Thanks again for all the info, Jim
Old 08-07-2013, 11:22 AM
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update, it was the motor, and the windless was a Lewmar 600? Old looking white one that was 12 years old. Lewmar told us that they were backed ordered till late Aug with a $279 dollar price.

The unit looks a bit too small for what I do, so I bought a Pro Series 1000 for $939 dollars. After I bought it I found out I had to but bigger chain and line, so there went another $500.

It is now installed and works great so far. Thanks for everyones help. Jim
Old 08-07-2013, 07:18 PM
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Originally Posted by 49erJim View Post
update, it was the motor, and the windless was a Lewmar 600? Old looking white one that was 12 years old. Lewmar told us that they were backed ordered till late Aug with a $279 dollar price.

The unit looks a bit too small for what I do, so I bought a Pro Series 1000 for $939 dollars. After I bought it I found out I had to but bigger chain and line, so there went another $500.

It is now installed and works great so far. Thanks for everyones help. Jim
Power requirements for the 1000 are much higher than the older 600.

I hope you have either confirmed the wiring is adequately sized, or have upgraded it (i.e. wire size, breakers, etc) with the new windlass installation. If not, you will have a lot of voltage drop, the windlass may not perform as you would want, and the motor will suffer as well.

Brian
Old 08-08-2013, 03:43 PM
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Default lewmar

I had the motor rebuilt at an auto elec shop for 180$ (lewmar) last month ' Most freeze up from lack of use.or..
The magnets break lose inside the motor and have to be re- glued

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