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question for rigging guru's...Seabob??

Old 07-27-2013, 10:28 AM
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Default question for rigging guru's...Seabob??

As Im rewiring this boats electronics....I find myself wondering if there is some sort of basic wiring harness available to professionals....for example: outboard, tilt & gauges, bilge pump, aerator & nav/anchor lights. what I have, is all that & it meets to a large square plug under the console...

if it helps...the boat is a 2000 Leader, Suzuki DT 115 outboard

thanx,

Adam
Old 07-27-2013, 10:45 AM
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http://www.cpperformance.com/p-13228...g-harness.aspx

Something like this?
Old 07-27-2013, 11:19 AM
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Originally Posted by DeepAnchorManagement View Post
yeah, actually...except none of the blower, volts etc. if there isnta more basic harness they may have wired those extra wire to the pumps & lights......

thanx!!!
Old 07-27-2013, 11:32 AM
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http://www.cpperformance.com/p-13229...g-harness.aspx

This one may be better. It may have a few extra wires but you could leave them unhooked and use them if later necessary.
Old 07-27-2013, 05:01 PM
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What DAM provided a link to is nice, but it is very generic...and therefore most likely won't fit your boat without having several leads too long, and maybe several leads too short. Builders have their harnesses custom made so the breakouts are all where they should be, the ground wires meet where the builder want's them to meet, in short, each and every harness is made for each and every boat, give or take a few models. The same harness for a 22 will probably be used for a 25.

The next issue is the connector that mates up with the helm switch panel. Molex connectors will do the trick, but they are cheap, and definitely don't keep moisture out. The pins that insert into the connectors CAN be crimped with a pair of needle nose, but it's a half ass job, you really need the crimping tool to do it right. My personal favorite connectors are Deutsch connectors, waterproof, and the connectors themselves are relatively cheap. UNFORTUNATELY, you need their crimping tool to crimp on the pins and sockets. At around $245 for the crimper, well, you better be building a lot of harnesses to pay for it. Amphenol connectors are very good as well, but, once again, you need their crimper to crimp on the pins and sockets.

The NEXT issue is the wiring on the switch/breaker panel. If the wiring in the hull harness is pretty well shot, then chances are the helm panel wiring is right along with it. So that needs to be re-wired (along with new switches and breakers, corrosion doesn't stop at the ends of the wires), and then terminated into the matching connector to the hull and/or deck harness.

I make my own harnesses and hardwire them to the helm switch panels, leaving about a 15" service loop. It is highly unlikely that the panel will have to be removed entirely so having the ability to un-plug it is typically not of a concern. I use all adhesive lined heat shrink terminals, so water intrusion is not a factor as well.

Wish it could be all easy, plug-n-play and all that good shit, but, unfortunately, it ain't...
Old 07-28-2013, 12:07 AM
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Originally Posted by seabob4 View Post
What DAM provided a link to is nice, but it is very generic...and therefore most likely won't fit your boat without having several leads too long, and maybe several leads too short. Builders have their harnesses custom made so the breakouts are all where they should be, the ground wires meet where the builder want's them to meet, in short, each and every harness is made for each and every boat, give or take a few models. The same harness for a 22 will probably be used for a 25.

The next issue is the connector that mates up with the helm switch panel. Molex connectors will do the trick, but they are cheap, and definitely don't keep moisture out. The pins that insert into the connectors CAN be crimped with a pair of needle nose, but it's a half ass job, you really need the crimping tool to do it right. My personal favorite connectors are Deutsch connectors, waterproof, and the connectors themselves are relatively cheap. UNFORTUNATELY, you need their crimping tool to crimp on the pins and sockets. At around $245 for the crimper, well, you better be building a lot of harnesses to pay for it. Amphenol connectors are very good as well, but, once again, you need their crimper to crimp on the pins and sockets.

The NEXT issue is the wiring on the switch/breaker panel. If the wiring in the hull harness is pretty well shot, then chances are the helm panel wiring is right along with it. So that needs to be re-wired (along with new switches and breakers, corrosion doesn't stop at the ends of the wires), and then terminated into the matching connector to the hull and/or deck harness.

I make my own harnesses and hardwire them to the helm switch panels, leaving about a 15" service loop. It is highly unlikely that the panel will have to be removed entirely so having the ability to un-plug it is typically not of a concern. I use all adhesive lined heat shrink terminals, so water intrusion is not a factor as well.

Wish it could be all easy, plug-n-play and all that good shit, but, unfortunately, it ain't...
aint that the truth!!!! all of the connections at the panel are NOT adhesive lined!!!!! 13 years old now....i may wind up doing my own harness for the pumps, lights, etc. im installing a new fuse block.

my boat was made by leader...I bought it from weeki wachee marina in april 2000....from what ive learned....the hull design is identical to a key West 1900 CC. Leader used some different, maybe cheaper accessories....as for the harness.....engine, tach, oil level, b uzzer, fuel all work!!! gauge lights used to work properly. it looks like the brown/red stripe ( bilge), brown/orange stripe (aerator) & grey/white stripe (anchor light) are the wires that need a little attention.....the grey also shows some corrosion at the pin!!

gonna head to the marina in the morning for new switches & breakers to see what works...

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