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HDS-7 Power/Data Help

Old 03-05-2013, 05:27 PM
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Default HDS-7 Power/Data Help

I'm getting ready to install my HDS-7 unit but I'm having some problems. The instructions are not that clear and are leaving this rookie stumped.

I'll be mounting the HDS-7 unit its on my ceiling of my hard top. However by doing this the power/data cable won't reach my batteries. Is it ok to buy extra power cable to go from my batteries up to the power /data cable? Also what the heck do I hook the data wires to on this unit? And what purpose does it serve? Thencan I just leave the yellow wire disconnected or do somthing else with it?

For the StructureScan HD unit I will be mounting it down in the cabin right by my batteries. The question I have is what should I do with the yellow cable on the power connector?

Any help would be great.
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Old 03-05-2013, 07:34 PM
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You should have a fuse box somewhere? And if you are lucky then there are free space on it - so you don't need to connect it directly to your battery. Connecting direct is not great since you can't switch power off to the HDS and StructureScan.

The yellow cable is the "wake up" signal cable. That makes the HDS able to "wake up" the structure scan. So when the HDS turns on - it will send a little bit of power out on the yellow cable - which the Structure Scan will respond to by turning on. So that is why it is smart to connect them.

If you don't need that - and want to switch them on when you switch on your battery switch - then just wire the yellow wire on the structure scan to the PLUS/RED cable. You can leave the HDS yellow cable "disconnected" but with some protection around the wire so it won't short out. Then you will at least be able to keep the HDS switched off even with batteries turned on. But then StructureScan is turned on at all times.

So Point 1 - Check for a fuse box. If you don't have one - buy 2 small blade fuse boxes. One to put next to the battery/structure scan (after your battery switch) - and the other next to the HDS. Then you have space for adding more electronics later.

Point 2 - find some 3 wire marine power cable to pull to the hard top and to the structure scan. 3 wires - so you can connect red/black and yellow. Pull the cable from hardtop HDS to Structure Scan or Fuse box if you have one.

Point 3: Make certain your Ethernet cable (the one with yellow screw terminals) - is long enough to reach between the HDS and the Structure Scan. Without it - they won't be able to talk to each other If the cable is not long enough - consider mounting the StuctureScan hidden behind the HDS - but ONLY if your transducer cable is long enough to reach the StructureScan. Else buy a longer Ethernet cable and leave structure scan close to batteries.

But all the above is recommendations without knowing the layout and electrical layout of your boat. :-)

But I would start by looking for fuse boxes :-) - if you have ANY other electronics like VHF, lights, bilgepumps - I'm quite certain you have fuse boxes somewhere.


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Old 03-06-2013, 05:00 AM
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Great info and thank you. My fuse box is not close to my batteries or where I plan on mounting the hds. So do I need a actual fuse breaker or can I put in a inline fuse and lead that to a on/off switch then to the units.

Thanks agin for the info because I thought I could just turn off the hds display with a push of a button...but that's not the case?

This is what I was thinking if I need a switch to turn off the units while i still have power running to the rest of the boat.

Battery---------on/off switch---------fuse-----red+yellow----structurescan hd

Battery---------on/off switch---------fuse-----red+yellow----HDS display


Then the power/data cable that gose into the hds display will be plugged into via the data cable into my VHF nmea wires?

Last edited by Scope3334; 03-06-2013 at 05:32 AM.
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Old 03-06-2013, 05:38 AM
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Originally Posted by Scope3334 View Post
Great info and thank you. My fuse box is not close to my batteries or where I plan on mounting the hds. So do I need a actual fuse breaker or can I put in a inline fuse and lead that to a on/off switch then to the units.
As a general rule, inline fuseholders should be avoided whenever possible.

Exactly what sort of boat is this, and do you not have SOME sort of DC distribution panel on it?


Thanks agin for the info because I thought I could just turn off the hds display with a push of a button...but that's not the case?
It still needs a breaker or fuse (preferably the former). And you still need to be able to remove power from it COMPLETELY under at least some circumstances.

This is what I was thinking if I need a switch to turn off the units while i still have power running to the rest of the boat.

Battery--------red+yellow to-----on/off switch---------fuse---------structurescan hd

Battery------red+yellow to------on/off switch---------fuse---------HDS display
Both of these are wrong.

The breaker or fuse needs to be at the SOURCE of the power for that circuit (preferably the distribution panel).


Then the power/data cable that gose into the hds display will be plugged into via the data cable into my VHF nmea wires?
I highly doubt it will "plug in". NMEA 0183 connections are generally made via individual wires. Interconnecting these can be done via either spade lugs and traditional barrier-type terminal strips, or by what some folks call "Euro" terminal blocks.



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Old 03-06-2013, 06:12 AM
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Originally Posted by Scope3334 View Post
I'm getting ready to install my HDS-7 ...what the heck do I hook the data wires to on this unit?
By "the data wires" you may be making reference to the NMEA-0183 interface circuit of the HDS-7 which is typically provided as a number of unterminated wires in a small cable that is part of the POWER/DATA connector fan-out. A NMEA-0183 interface is used to interconnect marine electronics. You may want to connect the HDS-7 to other devices on your boat.

For guidance on interconnection of NMEA-0183 device, please read and follow the procedure described at

http://continuouswave.com/whaler/ref...eNMEA0183.html

The article describes a consistent method for making interconnection of NMEA-0183 devices. If you follow the method described you will be able to deduce the proper interconnection of your Lowrance HDS-7 to other NMEA-0183 devices.

Originally Posted by Scope3334 View Post
And what purpose does it serve?
The purpose of making an interconnection between marine electronic devices using the NMEA-0183 protocol is to provide a method for the interconnected devices to exchange electrical signals and communicate with each other. The devices communicate by passing messages in an agreed upon manner. The general term for this is a communication protocol. Most marine devices are able to be interconnected using the NMEA-0183 protocol.

Last edited by jhebert; 03-06-2013 at 06:23 AM.
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Old 03-06-2013, 06:54 AM
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The boat is a wellcraft 252 Coastal..

this is what lowrance directions say for install. They say hooked up this way i can turn off the units complety using the switch on the yellow wire.



I want to hook it up so that when I have the power to the fuse box switched to off everything is off. But I also want to make it so when the fuse box is on I can have the unit off drawing no power but be able to run my other electronics. Or just to beagle to control power to this unit all together. Also is there a way to make it when I shut off the display it shuts off the structurescan hd unit.

Last edited by Scope3334; 03-06-2013 at 10:14 AM.
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Old 03-06-2013, 03:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Scope3334 View Post
The boat is a wellcraft 252 Coastal..
OK, then... You presumably DO have a DC distribution panel of some sort on that boat. It is from that panel that all of these items should be powered, NOT directly fom the battery.


this is what lowrance directions say for install. They say hooked up this way i can turn off the units complety using the switch on the yellow wire.
I cannot help but think something "got lost in translation" during your conversation with Lowrance.

That is NOT what those Yellow wires are intended for. As "kaz911" pointed out, the one on the HDS-8 is the "Accessory Wake Up" wire, which is designed to remotely control the power state of other related devices (such as your LSS-2). See Page 22 of your HDS Installation Guide. Also:





There need be no switch in that line. It connects to the (again, Yellow) "Ignition Sense" line on your LSS-2's power cable. See Page 9 of your LSS-2 "Module Installation Manual".


I want to hook it up so that when I have the power to the fuse box switched to off everything is off. But I also want to make it so when the fuse box is on I can have the unit off drawing no power but be able to run my other electronics.
You keep talking about a "fuse box". Do you mean that literally? Or are you really referring to a breaker panel? At this point, the distinction is important. Also, exactly what "other electronics" do you want to independently control the power feed to?

In any event, the "normal" way to set these things up -- and the approach I strongly suggest you follow -- is to have ONE breaker on your main distribution panel for all of the various navigation electronics at you helm station. The Positive line from that breaker goes to either a sub-panel, or (more commonly, if not more desirably) a fuse block (such as http://www.bluesea.com/products/5025..._Bus_and_Cover or http://www.bluesea.com/products/5026..._Bus_and_Cover) located in a protected location very near the electronics themselves (typically on the underside of the helm console):




This fuse block creates the fan-out for the various individual devices, with one fuse dedicated to each item. It is to these fuses that the primary positive power line to each device (the Red wires, in your case) connect.


Or just to beagle to control power to this unit all together.
Huh?!?

What do dogs have to do with this?


Also is there a way to make it when I shut off the display it shuts off the structurescan hd unit.
That is exactly what those Yellow wires are for. When you press the "Power" button on your HDS-8, it not only turns on that unit, it also puts a trigger voltage on the "Accessory Wake Up" wire. The LSS-2, in turn, senses that voltage and turns itself on.



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Old 03-06-2013, 06:05 PM
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Sorry for being lost...this is what I was referring to as a fuse box. This is what I have on my boat but with only one battery selector switch and its located in the same area. So ill run my red wires directly to here to a empty breaker or if one is not free buy a extra breaker and install it.

I have not looked under the helm yet but I think I have somthing like what you pointed out under there. If thats the case run my wires to there?

Thank you all for being patient im just doing a lot of looking around from mutiple sources and its giving me conflicting information for what im reading or know.




Or


Last edited by Scope3334; 03-06-2013 at 06:51 PM.
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Old 03-07-2013, 11:16 AM
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Originally Posted by Scope3334 View Post
Sorry for being lost...this is what I was referring to as a fuse box. This is what I have on my boat but with only one battery selector switch and its located in the same area.
Ahhhh... OK. Now at least I understand what you were talking about.

So when you said earlier, "I want to hook it up so that when I have the power to the fuse box switched to off everything is off", you were actually referring to the master battery switch. And yes, that would be the case (at least presuming your boat is not horridly mis-wired); with that master switch "Off", EVERTHING is off, except for whatever may be wired to either the hot (input) side of the switch or direct to the battery (and typically, that would only be a bilge pump).

You then went on to say, "But I also want to make it so when the fuse box is on I can have the unit off drawing no power but be able to run my other electronics." This part gets a little "iffy-er". I've cleaned up and enlarged that pic a bit (see attachment); but it's still difficult to make out a lot of detail. It LOOKS like, rather than a traditional distribution panel with an array of toggle-type circuit breakers, you have a bunch of panel-mount fuseholders, which presumably house AGC-type glass-tube fuses.

If that is the case, then strictly speaking the answer would be "No"; because while the HDS-8 can be turned on and off via its own power button, at least the LSS-2 (and probably the HDS-8 as well) is/are never completely "Off". Instead, it is in a low-power "standby" mode -- much like your TV set at home, where at least some small part of it must remain energized in order to "listen for" and receive the command from your remote control to turn itself on. In the case of the HDS-8/LSS-2, it's not an infrared remote that is doing this job; but the principle is essentially the same.

That said, for all practical purposes, this is indeed "close enough" to a true "power off" situation for your day-to-day purposes. The current draw when in this "standby" mode is exceedingly small, and thus not significant in terms of draining your battery over the course of a day's fishing or a night on the hook. And when you leave the boat for an extended period of time (say, from one weekend to the next), you would presumably be moving that master battery disconnect switch to "Off" anyway; and when that happens, ALL power is removed. Ditto for when you need to work on the wiring or similar -- the battery would be switched off, so all downstream circuits would be truly dead.

BTW... As a side note: Your mention of having "only one battery selector switch" raises something of a red flag on another front. Unless that one switch is a dual-pole switch like the Blue Sea Systems #5511e http://www.bluesea.com/products/5511...Battery_Switch, this implies that you do NOT have a proper dual-bank electrical system, where all "House" loads (such as your electronics) are kept segregated from the battery responsible for staring your engine. This is something you WILL want to fix, sooner or later. But it is not directly related to your current questions; so I'll leave it at that, for now.


So ill run my red wires directly to here to a empty breaker or if one is not free buy a extra breaker and install it.
First, check and see what circuits they have already installed. You may already have one designated "electronics" or similar. If so, you need to trace out where that circuit leads. It may be just what you're looking for.


I have not looked under the helm yet but I think I have somthing like what you pointed out under there. If thats the case run my wires to there?
Yes. As I mentioned earlier, standard (or at least very common) practice is to have one breaker for at least most of the nav electronics as a group (sometimes RADAR is handled separately; but this is mostly a hold-over from back when they drew LOTS of power); then a fuse block or sub-panel similar to what I posted earlier is used to fan out the power to each individual device.


Thank you all for being patient im just doing a lot of looking around from mutiple sources and its giving me conflicting information for what im reading or know.
That's OK. This sort of stuff can be very intimidating and/or overwhelming to folks who don't deal with it regularly, or are not tech-heads to start with. Just take it one step at a time, and work through everything methodically; you'll be OK.

Also, if you're really a newbie at this sort of stuff, we probably need to review proper wiring procedures in general (selecting the correct wire type/size, using the proper connectors, securing everything with hold-downs, etc.).



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