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Running power for an hds gen2 5 & 8 and structure scan

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Running power for an hds gen2 5 & 8 and structure scan

Old 02-24-2013, 12:07 PM
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Default Running power for an hds gen2 5 & 8 and structure scan

I'm getting ready to install an hds5 on the bow and an hds8 on the console along with structure scan. Would it make sense to mount a separate fuse block and run all three of them through it? I was also going to put a toggle switch on the structure scan line so I can independently turn it off so it doesn't draw. Would this be a sufficient way to set it up? I'm thinking about running 10 gauge from the designated fuse block back to the battery.
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Old 02-24-2013, 12:31 PM
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Sounds like an excellent idea You plan to do exactly what I've done in both my boats
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Old 02-24-2013, 12:50 PM
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Did you also fuse the power line back by battery? If so, what size fuse did you use? I know all three pieces of equipment use a 3 amp but should I use a different size on the single power back to the battery?
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Old 02-24-2013, 01:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Joepapar View Post
I'm getting ready to install an hds5 on the bow and an hds8 on the console along with structure scan. Would it make sense to mount a separate fuse block and run all three of them through it?
A circuit breaker panel, such as http://bluesea.com/products/4374/Wea...04%20Positions, http://bluesea.com/products/4376/Wea...06%20Positions, or http://bluesea.com/products/4378/Wea...08%20Positions, would be better (the individual breaker values can be selected from http://bluesea.com/products/category...ton_Reset-Only).

That said, IF you can put it in a properly protected location, a fuse block which uses blade-type fuses (such as http://bluesea.com/products/5025/ST%...%20and%20Cover) will suffice in a pinch.


I was also going to put a toggle switch on the structure scan line so I can independently turn it off so it doesn't draw.
The breaker panel suggested above would kill that bird, too.


Would this be a sufficient way to set it up? I'm thinking about running 10 gauge from the designated fuse block back to the battery.
The line FROM the battery TO the distribution panel/block should be sized to avoid excessive voltage drop (considering EVERYTHING which may be drawing from it), per http://www.acbsphl.org/Tips_and_hints/ABYC_Wiring.htm.


Originally Posted by Joepapar View Post
Did you also fuse the power line back by battery? If so, what size fuse did you use? I know all three pieces of equipment use a 3 amp but should I use a different size on the single power back to the battery?
Pretty much every wire on the boat needs to be protected by a fuse or breaker. Again, refer to http://www.acbsphl.org/Tips_and_hints/ABYC_Wiring.htm for guidance on the appropriate fuse/breaker ratings.



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Old 02-24-2013, 06:52 PM
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Thanks for the response. I figure that I'll need 10 gauge going back from the fuse block to the battery but I'm still not clear on what size fuse I'll need to install just off of the battery. I plan on running each piece of equipment through their own 3 amp fuse in the block but I'm guessing I probably should stick another fuse back by the battery. Any suggestions?
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Old 02-24-2013, 10:11 PM
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if your battery switch is in the console. just run power from switch to new fuse block. no need to run all the way back. plus should be after swtich anyways.
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Old 02-24-2013, 10:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Joepapar View Post
Thanks for the response. I figure that I'll need 10 gauge going back from the fuse block to the battery
Offhand, that sounds light; but I don't know enough about the particular application to say for sure. Also, "smac999" brings up a good point: If your master battery-disconnect switch(es) is/are in the console, the run is likely much shorter, which will help.


but I'm still not clear on what size fuse I'll need to install just off of the battery.
It depends in part on the specific configuration of your electrical system. But per http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/American_wire_gauge, AWG 10 is good for 30-40 Amps, depending on the insulation rating. Note that this is PURELY in terms of "ampacity" -- i.e., the maximum current the wire can carry before becoming a safety risk -- and does not consider voltage drop. To maintain acceptable voltage drop, the limits would typically be MUCH lower, but the exact values are dependent on the run length.


I plan on running each piece of equipment through their own 3 amp fuse in the block but I'm guessing I probably should stick another fuse back by the battery. Any suggestions?
You really should be powering these items from the boat's main DC distribution panel, assuming it has one (and if it doesn't have one, it should). The line which feeds that panel (which should be coming from the master battery-disconnect switch) does indeed need to be fused. The correct value for that fuse will depend on its AWG.



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Old 02-25-2013, 12:23 PM
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Great info. Subscribed.
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Old 02-25-2013, 04:44 PM
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I think I got it. Thanks for all of the great info.
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Old 02-25-2013, 05:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Itteldoo View Post
Offhand, that sounds light; but I don't know enough about the particular application to say for sure.
AWG10 is more than enough. AWG10 is 3.28ohm/km. If the distance is 5m, we have 10m cable and the resistance is 0.0328 ohm. HDS8 + HDS-5 + LSS-2 is about 2.2A in total, this gives 0.07V drop.
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Old 02-27-2013, 06:29 PM
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Thanks for the great info. Probably will start the install this weekend.
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Old 02-27-2013, 08:13 PM
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Just keep in mind that if you turn off your StructureScan unit then you lose networking between the two HDS units..... If you connect the yellow wires from the HDS head units to the StructureScan, then when you turn on either HDS the StructureScan will come on - and if both HDS units are off, the StructureScan will turn off.

Technically, all the units are "on" at some infinitesimal level all the time unless you physically "break" the the connection to the voltage source - when you press the power button on the HDS, there is already some power there and a circuit is detecting it - same thing the yellow wire does for you..... not really an issue if you keep your boat on a charger when not out on the water - over lots of time it will eventually draw down the battery, so a switch is not a bad idea - even if just the main battery kill switch
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Old 02-28-2013, 05:33 PM
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Good point! Didn't think about losing network connectivity when ss is off.
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Old 03-16-2013, 12:59 PM
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Everything is installed, powered up and appears to be working properly. Hope to water test next weekend. I ended up running all transducer cables though their own split wire wrap. Hopefully that will help eliminated potential interference.
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