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Amp is getting hot and cutting out?????

Old 08-07-2012, 05:16 PM
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Default Amp is getting hot and cutting out?????

I'm running a Fusion head unit, a Clarion APX290M amp, and 2 JL Audio and it sounds really good but now I'm starting to have a problem. Amp gets really hot to the touch. It's under my center console. At higher volume levels when rockin' out on the sand bar after an hour or so, sometimes less, I here the sound cut down and sounds muffled a little. I can turn the volume down for a little while and then it's all good again at higher volume levels again, I am only running like a 10 gauge power wire to the amp and I think that's my problem. I'm gonna jump the leads up to a 6 gauge and see if this helps my problem. How can I fuse a wire that large? Any ideas on what's wrong with my set up?
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Old 08-07-2012, 07:32 PM
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According to the Clarion APX290M Product Manual, page 7 of 56, the 10AWG supply and return are the correct wire size. Bigger is better.

What are the supply / return wire lengths?

How is the ventillation around the amp? Can the amp heat escape and be replaced by cool fresh air (see page 17 of 56)?
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Old 08-07-2012, 07:42 PM
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How long has it been in there and how long has it worked with no issues?
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Old 08-08-2012, 03:01 AM
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It's been there since early march, and my length is no longer than 10'.
Thanks.
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Old 08-08-2012, 03:28 AM
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could be your batteries getting weaker and causing more amp draw.
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Old 08-08-2012, 04:43 AM
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I had a similar issue with my amps due to the mounting location and lack of ventilation. I corrected mine by adding a 12vt computer fan. I just wired it to the amp turn on lead at the amp and it comes on with the radio. Here is what I used and I just made a bracket out of aluminum to aim the airflow over the cooling fins of the amp.

Here is one on ebay:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-BI-SONIC...item53ee29f40a
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Old 08-08-2012, 05:01 AM
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X2 on the cooling fan on the amp
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Old 08-08-2012, 05:06 AM
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Before you go buying fans, unbolt the amp and mount it again with four quarter inch Teflon plastic washers underneath the amp, so all the surfaces get circulation. That usually does it.
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Old 08-08-2012, 07:13 AM
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Originally Posted by Glen E View Post
Before you go buying fans, unbolt the amp and mount it again with four quarter inch Teflon plastic washers underneath the amp, so all the surfaces get circulation. That usually does it.
Took the words right outta my fingers...
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Old 08-08-2012, 07:22 AM
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Originally Posted by superfly View Post
I'm gonna jump the leads up to a 6 gauge and see if this helps my problem. How can I fuse a wire that large?
Blue Sea Maxi Fuse

http://bluesea.com/category/81/21/pr...e/overview/127
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Old 08-08-2012, 03:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Glen E View Post
Before you go buying fans, unbolt the amp and mount it again with four quarter inch Teflon plastic washers underneath the amp, so all the surfaces get circulation. That usually does it.
Yup...That will do it! My installer did the same exact thing on my Clarion XN-3210 2-Channel Amp (90 WPC) It's installed in my cuddy cabin & I do open the Bowmar hatch to get some air in there. I can tell you...On my last boat I had a Kenwood (non-marine) Amp that had a built-in 80mm fan. I have since sold the boat, but it's still going strong after 9 seasons!

I had the Kenwood KAC-7201. Now it's the KAC-7205. Can be had cheap @ eBay. With the fan...It never, ever got too hot.

http://www.kenwoodusa.com/Car_Entert...fiers/KAC-7205
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Old 08-08-2012, 04:02 PM
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Thanks for the ideas. I think I'll run the bigger wire, space out the amp, and add the fan if the problem continues. All great advice, thanks again.
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Old 08-09-2012, 03:42 PM
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Originally Posted by superfly View Post
Thanks for the ideas. I think I'll run the bigger wire, space out the amp, and add the fan if the problem continues. All great advice, thanks again.
If you do decide to do the fan thing I dont recomend powering it from the remote wire of the head unit. Wire in a relay and use the remote wire to trip the relay but not power the fan. The reason is that the remote output on the stereos is rated for less than an amp and sometimes adding something to the circuit will actually take out the remote output from the stereo leaving you wiring in a switch to turn your amp on and off. I dont think you will need the fan anyway once you upgrade your power wires and space the amp, but just incase.
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Old 08-09-2012, 03:54 PM
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Originally Posted by MB Marine Electronics View Post
If you do decide to do the fan thing I dont recomend powering it from the remote wire of the head unit. Wire in a relay and use the remote wire to trip the relay but not power the fan. The reason is that the remote output on the stereos is rated for less than an amp and sometimes adding something to the circuit will actually take out the remote output from the stereo leaving you wiring in a switch to turn your amp on and off. I dont think you will need the fan anyway once you upgrade your power wires and space the amp, but just incase.

Good point on this as I forgot this is how I did mine since I am running 3 amps and needed the extra power to turn them on plus the fan.
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Old 08-09-2012, 05:08 PM
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if you run your speakers in parallel it cuts the ohms in half and doubles the output of the amp but some amps cant handle it and it will do exactly as described . check the ohms of the speakers and ohms the amp can handle . try 1 speaker to 1 channel output and then turn the gain down a bit. if that doesnt work leave me message or post what happens.
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Old 08-09-2012, 08:05 PM
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Originally Posted by spearjim View Post
if you run your speakers in parallel it cuts the ohms in half and doubles the output of the amp but some amps cant handle it and it will do exactly as described . check the ohms of the speakers and ohms the amp can handle . try 1 speaker to 1 channel output and then turn the gain down a bit. if that doesnt work leave me message or post what happens.
My thoughts exactly.

Also make you buy an AMP with a regulated power supply.
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