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Blue Sea Add a Batter -7650

Old 04-25-2012, 11:09 PM
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Question Blue Sea Add a Batter -7650

At the present time I have a Perko (1/All/2/Off) switch for the 2 batteries on my boat, but I am thinking of installing the Blue Sea Add a Battery (7650- which consists of a switch & ACR).

Any advice or comments are appreciated.
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Old 04-25-2012, 11:51 PM
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I'm about to do the same. Heard good things about it. Good Luck.
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Old 04-26-2012, 03:46 AM
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I installed the same switch a few years ago. When you purchase the switch your also going to need more battery cable(for positive side) and compression eyelets.

If you have basic skills and are comfortable working around the elec system your be fine. Easy to install.
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Old 04-26-2012, 04:29 AM
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Do it, great unit that works very well.. Lots of info already here in this forum about it.
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Old 04-26-2012, 05:59 AM
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I understand that extra cables are necessary. But regarding fuses, I have read conflicting reports, some say that if you have a short cable between the ACR and the switch no fuses are needed, while others say a fuse is required.
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Old 04-26-2012, 06:16 AM
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Originally Posted by retired View Post
I understand that extra cables are necessary. But regarding fuses, I have read conflicting reports, some say that if you have a short cable between the ACR and the switch no fuses are needed, while others say a fuse is required.
No fuse is needed between the ACR and the battery switches, it's overkill.
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Old 04-26-2012, 03:48 PM
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Originally Posted by BeachTyme View Post
No fuse is needed between the ACR and the battery switches, it's overkill.
Thanks. Those fuses are not cheap.
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Old 04-26-2012, 04:56 PM
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I'll see if I can find you the diagram that the Yami boat guys use.
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Old 04-26-2012, 07:22 PM
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Originally Posted by BeachTyme View Post
I'll see if I can find you the diagram that the Yami boat guys use.
Thanks, that will help.
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Old 04-27-2012, 04:57 AM
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Here it is:

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Old 04-27-2012, 08:14 PM
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Originally Posted by BeachTyme View Post
Here it is:

Thanks! I'm installing one now and this design is better than what I had planned on!
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Old 04-28-2012, 05:58 AM
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If i just want to add a battery i think i can just combine to my current battery with the ACR and forgoe the switch. The only penalty is not being able to select the new battery by itself for emergency starting. Im not concerned with that since i have 2 batteries already and i just want to add a deep cycle for my stereo.

Blue seas said this would be fine. Any suggestions?
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Old 04-28-2012, 10:27 AM
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Defender sells the Combiner100 for $55 that does exactly that function.
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Old 04-28-2012, 08:08 PM
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I have just their combiner relay to replace a defective diode block on a Carolina Classic. I think it's the same device as in their kit. It's been just fine for circa 2 years.

Once installed, the only anamoly that you might not expect is that it will not combine from the side with the alternator to a completely dead battery. (The directions say this but it's easy to forget.) As my arrangement has a separate parallel relay, that's the "work around." If you get in that situation, you'll need to remember to do whatever you do with whatever switching you end up with to parallel the batteries for a while without needing the relay to do that work. Then, after a few minutes, the once-dead battery will have enough for the device to recognize it.

Good luck.
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Old 04-28-2012, 10:22 PM
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Beach Tyme, thanks for the diagram. The following is how I am thinking of wiring my Blue Sea Add a Battery-7650. This is taken from Blue Sea but I have eliminated the fuses between the batteries and the ACR. Contrary to what my drawing shows the cables between the batteries and the ACR are 4 gauge and not 6 gauge.

Does this make sense.
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Old 04-30-2012, 12:54 PM
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Originally Posted by retired View Post
Beach Tyme, thanks for the diagram. The following is how I am thinking of wiring my Blue Sea Add a Battery-7650. This is taken from Blue Sea but I have eliminated the fuses between the batteries and the ACR. Contrary to what my drawing shows the cables between the batteries and the ACR are 4 gauge and not 6 gauge.

Does this make sense.

If you connect ACR to the switch using beach's diagram rather than directly to batteries there are some advantages over the stock diagram.

When you turn off the bluesea switch it shuts down the ACR too. This keeps small but steady drain on batteries from adding up by continuous ACR polling when left unattended.

In most cases requires less wire to hook ACR up to posts on the switch rather than another battery run. Having less wire without recommended breakers is safer incase something does go wrong.

An argument for breakers it protects ACR from loads exceeding its amp rating. Depending on size of your batteries, alternator and SOC of each system worst case amps flowing between batteries when ACR circuit is opened could be significant.
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Old 04-30-2012, 01:45 PM
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Originally Posted by delphin View Post
If you connect ACR to the switch using beach's diagram rather than directly to batteries there are some advantages over the stock diagram.

When you turn off the bluesea switch it shuts down the ACR too. This keeps small but steady drain on batteries from adding up by continuous ACR polling when left unattended.

In most cases requires less wire to hook ACR up to posts on the switch rather than another battery run. Having less wire without recommended breakers is safer incase something does go wrong.

An argument for breakers it protects ACR from loads exceeding its amp rating. Depending on size of your batteries, alternator and SOC of each system worst case amps flowing between batteries when ACR circuit is opened could be significant.
Correct. Using the diagram I posted off = completely off. This is the way I've always done it along with 100's of others.

A few guys put the breakers in there, most do not. That would be a personal choice. I've never used them on the BS installs that I've used.
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Old 04-30-2012, 06:38 PM
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delphin & Beach Tyme,

Thank you for your obsevation on the Blue Sea drawing; ectricity is not my forte. Now that you mentioned it, I can see that the ACR is still active with the switch in the off position and I can see the advantage of the set-up drawn by "kvman".

A couple of questions.
Just an observations in regards to the "kvman" drawing. It would appear to me that if the switch is in the off position the bilge pump is off?

I am planning on mounting the 5511e switch in the same location as the perko which means I can use the same hole screws - I hate drilling holes in my boat. Does the positive (+) starter cable have to the ACR or can it be connected to the switch? This would mean, I would not have to move this cable.

The following drawing shows the changes that I would like to make to the "kvman" set-up.
Your comments will be appreciated.
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Old 04-30-2012, 08:25 PM
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In the case of the placement of the ACR on the switch - I assume you would need to have the switch on if connecting a typical non-permanant charger to the house battery in order to charge the start battery.

Are there are any major cons of this to the connected circuits when the switch is on whilst being charged? I would have thought not as this would be similar to when the motor is charging the system - but thought I'd ask the experts .
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Old 05-01-2012, 04:53 AM
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Originally Posted by retired View Post
delphin & Beach Tyme,

Thank you for your obsevation on the Blue Sea drawing; ectricity is not my forte. Now that you mentioned it, I can see that the ACR is still active with the switch in the off position and I can see the advantage of the set-up drawn by "kvman".

A couple of questions.
Just an observations in regards to the "kvman" drawing. It would appear to me that if the switch is in the off position the bilge pump is off?

I am planning on mounting the 5511e switch in the same location as the perko which means I can use the same hole screws - I hate drilling holes in my boat. Does the positive (+) starter cable have to the ACR or can it be connected to the switch? This would mean, I would not have to move this cable.

The following drawing shows the changes that I would like to make to the "kvman" set-up.
Your comments will be appreciated.
That is correct and most people wire their main bilge directly to the battery. You can even wire the bilge to the cranking battery as it should (at least in theory) never really be depleted like a house battery may be if you run all your accessories for extended periods.

Keep in mind here the battery switch has a combine setting that will combine the separate circuits in to one for emergency (cranking) purposes. You can also combine them for charging purposes, although there are some that would disagree with using the combine feature for charging in this manner.

The + from the engine should go to the ACR as it is responsible for directing the charge to the batteries in order of circuits. I.E. the primary (cranking) circuit will be recharged first and then the house circuit will get the juice. That's the beauty of the ACR and how it distributes the power that comes back to it.
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