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Please Evaluate Wiring Schematic...

Old 02-26-2012, 09:18 AM
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Default Please Evaluate Wiring Schematic...

Hello all,

Long, long time lurker. I feel like I know a lot of you because I've been reading your stuff for so long. Finally got a boat (2005 SeaSwirl Striper 1851 Dual Console with 2004 Yamaha V4 115 2-stroke), and she's in need of a wiring cleanup/rewire. I've read and read and read, and I have the Illustrated Wiring book on hold at the library (they're closed today), but I'm anxious to get started on my parts list for her wiring cleanup/update.

I created a wiring schematic using SmartDraw, and I understand that it's very basic, but I don't have much of an electrical background. My goal is to keep it as simple and clean as possible, and finishing everything up with crimped connections covered in clear shrink tubing. I'm going to order my parts from So far the only thing I'm sold on is the Blue Sea Systems 12 fuse Fuse Block with the positive and negative buses. Here it is...

A couple of questions...

1. Do I need the positive and negative buses in my primary wiring schematic, or just run the positive wire from the common switch connection and the negative wire from the battery straight to the fuse block up front under the console?

2. Do I need some type of fuse in my primary wiring schematic, prior to the fuse block?

3. My understanding so far is that 2 awg for the battery connections and 10 awg for the run from the switch should be sufficient...any thoughts?

My accessories and future accessories are simple, to include:

Nav/Anchor Lights
Trolling motor receptacle
12V receptacle
Stereo w/2 speakers
Garmin 541s
Compass light
Bilge pump
Livewell Aerator
Raw water washdown pump

I have already contacted SeaBob reference wiring my switch panel with new switches, so that will be taken care of. I just can't wait any longer in order to get a complete rewire, although I know Bob's work would be perfect.

Thanks a lot everyone. I believe that I'm on the right track, but I trust your input more than some of my own knowledge. Take care everyone.
Old 02-26-2012, 06:31 PM
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1) the positive and negative bus-bars just provide for a place to aggregate connections - nothing says you HAVE to have them. If you have various loads near your batteries that you need to connect (bilge pump, etc), then having a bus-bar may be convinent. Make sure you fuse any +12 wires coming off the +12V bus bar to any loads.

2) Fuse - you must have a fuse or breaker within 7" of any voltage source - in this case, your battery switch. The fuse/breaker is there to protect your wire - not the device it is powering. Even though you may not connect load directly to the wire (i.e. the wire may feed a fuse panel), you need to protect the wire with an appropriate sized fuse or breaker for the aggregate load that that wire may source.

3) Wire gauge - depends on the loads you are pulling on the circuit. 2 ga may be / probably is bbig enough for your motor. The supply line going to your console will depend on what load that circuit has to carry, and how far the run of that circuit is - the longer the run, the more the resistance and thus voltage drop. Looking at your list, even putting the Trolling motor aside (which really should be running on its own batteries and definitely its own circuit), I expect you need something beefier than 10 ga, but I'd have to know more about the distance run, and the current draw of the various loads to be able to confirm - got to run the #s. Also, don't forget that the -12V "return" needs to be of the same gauge as your +12V supply
Old 02-27-2012, 07:23 AM
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That helps a ton. Thank you very much.

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