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Robertson AP11 - RUDD.ANG fail

Old 02-26-2012, 07:37 AM
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Default Robertson AP11 - RUDD.ANG fail

Read the manual and only guidance is to check connections. I checked them visually and all seems fine / connected.

I haven't used the AP11 since last September. I turned it on last trip out two weeks ago and noticed my rudder angle was hard to port. I thought I must need to calibrate it, turned it off and went on with my day.

Went out today to zero out the rudder but now get the alarm.

Ideas?
Old 02-26-2012, 07:50 AM
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you need a new rudder angle indicator sounds like its shot.
Old 02-26-2012, 08:28 AM
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if it's a linear rudder feedback, do yourself a favor and get the teleflex smart stick
Old 02-26-2012, 08:50 AM
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Originally Posted by mstyle8517 View Post
if it's a linear rudder feedback, do yourself a favor and get the teleflex smart stick
check your PM
Old 02-26-2012, 11:20 AM
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before everyone starts the kneejerk diagnostics.
what kind of feedback is it? outboard? inboard? did you check the feedback? or just the wiring at the junctionbox?. there could be more than a few reasons for your problem. so to skip the 20 questians. describe your system better.
if you have an inboard system make sure link between the arm on the feedback and the rudder is attached.

Last edited by philgorp; 02-26-2012 at 11:32 AM.
Old 02-26-2012, 02:41 PM
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Originally Posted by philgorp View Post
before everyone starts the kneejerk diagnostics.
what kind of feedback is it? outboard? inboard? did you check the feedback? or just the wiring at the junctionbox?. there could be more than a few reasons for your problem. so to skip the 20 questians. describe your system better.
if you have an inboard system make sure link between the arm on the feedback and the rudder is attached.
That is why I love this site - no knee jerkers allowed.

Twin outboards with the LF3000
I did not check the feedback do to not knowing I needed to do so or how to accomplish.
I checked (as manual suggested) all wiring "connections" of which all seem to be connected.

All help is appreciated especially from the pros of which I am not when it comes to auto pilots. Ask me some air conditioning or fiberglass restoration questions and I can help.
Old 02-26-2012, 05:35 PM
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try an see if you can do the ruddder settings.
if you have an LF3000 theres a box (LFI3000) between the feedback on the outboard steering ram and the junction unit. you can check it here to see if you see anything wrong.
heres the deal 90% of the time the feedback on the steering ram goes bad. the solder joints corrode off. its repairable, but only if your stuck in a third world country and need to get home. so like mstyle said, get a teleflex feedback. simrad sells it as a replacment. but they want 500$ last i checked. if you don't find something obvious or can't do the rudder setting then order a teleflex AR4505SI. the install is pretty easy and its a nonpolarized (if it makes you feel better connect it white to white and black to brown) 2 wire connection directly to the jbox. good luck
Old 02-26-2012, 06:53 PM
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Philgorp, I have experienced the exact same problem, but since I am in the process of transferring the AP 11 and 3000 junction to another boat I haven't pursued the solution except to note that there is alot of talk about which smartstick to use and an issue about differences in input and output voltages. Does the AR4505SI directly replace the Simrad unit? Also I know that I need an RPU 80 pump and have found a MUCH cheaper unit from a supplier in the UK. Do you know of any other replacement options?
Old 02-26-2012, 08:35 PM
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the J3000 will handle most pumps. can you post some info on the pumps you found? i have had very few problems with AR4505SI feedbacks
Old 02-27-2012, 03:43 PM
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Originally Posted by philgorp View Post
try an see if you can do the ruddder settings.
if you have an LF3000 theres a box (LFI3000) between the feedback on the outboard steering ram and the junction unit. you can check it here to see if you see anything wrong.
heres the deal 90% of the time the feedback on the steering ram goes bad. the solder joints corrode off. its repairable, but only if your stuck in a third world country and need to get home. so like mstyle said, get a teleflex feedback. simrad sells it as a replacment. but they want 500$ last i checked. if you don't find something obvious or can't do the rudder setting then order a teleflex AR4505SI. the install is pretty easy and its a nonpolarized (if it makes you feel better connect it white to white and black to brown) 2 wire connection directly to the jbox. good luck


Thanks, got home a little late today so too dark to go investigate. How to I gain access to see if corrosion is the culprit as described above.

If it is $500 to drive a straight line it is money well spent especially when fuel in the Bahamas will be in the $7.00/gal range.
Old 02-27-2012, 03:50 PM
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CHECK WITH THESE PEOPLE--FIRST CLASS AND REALLY KNOW THE AP11

http://robertsonrepairs.com/aboutus.aspx

http://robertsonrepairs.com/default.aspx
Old 02-27-2012, 05:37 PM
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Originally Posted by red20 View Post
Thanks, got home a little late today so too dark to go investigate. How to I gain access to see if corrosion is the culprit as described above.

If it is $500 to drive a straight line it is money well spent especially when fuel in the Bahamas will be in the $7.00/gal range.
you should be able to pick up an ar4505si for less than 250$ simrad sells it under their own part #. what i meant was get the teleflex.
Old 02-28-2012, 04:45 AM
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Do I eliminate the j-box my current LF unit plugs into? Then wire the teleflex unit into the main board for the AP11.

Seems right but worth asking.

Even if the issue is not the LF but is actually the j-box it is still better to replace with the teleflex?
Old 02-28-2012, 05:23 AM
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the small square box is the linear feedback interface. its part of the simrad linear feedback system. the feedback has two coils inside. as the rod slides in and out, it changes the impedence of the coils. the interface box reads the impedence between the two coils and produces a frequency that the processor on the main board uses to determine the rudder position. so the feedback has a 4 wire cable that goes to the interfacebox. the interface box has a sheilded 2 wire cable that goes to the processor in the junction box.

and yeah its just better to scrap that setup. and replace it with the teleflex. it has a simple 2 wire cable that connects directly to the j box.
Old 02-28-2012, 09:23 AM
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thanks
Old 09-03-2012, 07:34 PM
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I installed the Smartstick about 3 years ago---I had to because there was no way to use the old Simrad rudder reference because of the wya my transom well is layed out

Works perfectly--no problems. It seems a little more sensitive than I expected and getting the calibration on target was a PITA
Old 09-04-2012, 04:27 AM
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Originally Posted by NoFearEyes View Post
I installed the Smartstick about 3 years ago---I had to because there was no way to use the old Simrad rudder reference because of the wya my transom well is layed out

Works perfectly--no problems. It seems a little more sensitive than I expected and getting the calibration on target was a PITA
if you turn the helm 1/4 of the way and then adjust the magnet collar so the magnets are centered over the stick it will be more consistant. and less sensitive. also the closer the collar and stick are the better.

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