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Electronics just shut off....

Old 02-22-2012, 06:42 AM
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Default Electronics just shut off....

I just replaced two old batteries last night with two new Optima Blue Tops, Group 27's and connected everything just how it was connected to the previous batteries. Started the engine to make sure everything was good to go, which it was. Turned on all electronics from the swithces on the dash to make sure everything was connected properly. All electronics came on fine, but after about 5 minutes they all shut off like someone pulled the power cord out of the wall.

I shut down the engine rechecked all connections to the battery to make sure nothing was loose and started it back up. Still no power to the electronics. It seems as if the switches on the dash are not getting any power. Any help on what might be causing this? I am thinking it could be a fuse but I am not sure how to check this.

Also, went from group 24's to the larger 27's but not sure that would make a difference.

Thanks guys.
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Old 02-22-2012, 06:49 AM
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Are you sure it's charging? What's the voltage at the battery with the motor running?
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Old 02-22-2012, 06:52 AM
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I am not sure what the voltage was when the motor was running. What would happen if the voltage dipped? Would that cause a breaker or fuse to trip/short?
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Old 02-22-2012, 08:38 AM
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fuse/breaker
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Old 02-22-2012, 12:39 PM
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I am thinking the same thing. Running from the battery switch, all the connections feed to a bus bar. From the bus bar a wire goes into a sealed "box" compartment that has a 30 amp breaker in it. I am going to start here and hopefully it will resolve the issue. Will I just need to reset the breaker? Or do I need to replace it?
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Old 02-22-2012, 01:30 PM
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I am 99% sure its one of two things:

1) Voltage Drop or

2) a UFO flew by.
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Old 02-22-2012, 02:22 PM
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You can reset the breaker. But if it happens again I would replace the breaker. You should also check the appliances on that circuit to make sure it is not over burdened.

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Old 02-22-2012, 07:29 PM
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Had problems with my RL70CRC Pathfinder radar screen. It would shut off every time I restarted my engine after a drift. PITA waiting over a minute for radar to warm up Battery isolator is what fixed it for me.
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Old 02-22-2012, 07:39 PM
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Do all your displays enable you to show voltage? Secondly, what is the amp draw of all your electronics when all are operating, especially radar? I would bet it's less than 15A. Add up the draws that are available in your owners manuals, see what that is. A 30A circuit should handle what is thrown at it, could be a batt that has a weak cell. Shows good voltage, but can't handle the amps...
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Old 02-22-2012, 08:29 PM
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I would look for & check the larger amp fuse or breaker that should be in the main house/electronics supply circuit within 6-7" of the battery + or the nearby battery switch it likely goes through. That fuse protects the wiring from the battery that goes forward to the breaker panel or dash fused switches.

I would also confirm the black main battery cable (negative "strap"?) that must be connected between the 2 batteries' negative posts was reinstalled on the new batteries. Usually only one of 2 batteries is connected to the engine ground to complete it's charging circuit, and the other battery's neg must be electrically connected to that of the 1st battery to complete the 2nd's charge circuit.

My boat's winter yard regularly "forgets" to reinstall that negative strap cable at spring commissioning resulting in the engine start battery on that side charging nicely but no charge current reaching the electronics battery, while the full load of electronics quickly drains that battery below the voltage level at which the electroincs will stay powered on.
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Old 02-23-2012, 07:28 AM
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Originally Posted by MYTraveler View Post
I am 99% sure its one of two things:

1) Voltage Drop or

2) a UFO flew by.
Haha this is great. The problem was that the breaker tripped, due to voltage drop. The second battery was dead and when I switched over to this battery it caused the voltage to drop, triggering the breaker. Replaced the second battery and also replaced the 30 amp breaker. Reconnected everything through the new breaker and now, not only do I have two fresh new batteries, but also the electronics are working on both batteries!!

Thanks for the help guys, probably one of the easiest fixes I ever had to do, thankfully.
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Old 02-23-2012, 09:53 AM
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so a new battery you bought was defective? and the second new battery voltage was under 12v?, why would a low voltage battery cause a fuse breaker to trip? bob? just asking
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Old 02-23-2012, 02:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Fish-on-21 View Post
Haha this is great. The problem was that the breaker tripped, due to voltage drop. The second battery was dead and when I switched over to this battery it caused the voltage to drop, triggering the breaker. Replaced the second battery and also replaced the 30 amp breaker. Reconnected everything through the new breaker and now, not only do I have two fresh new batteries, but also the electronics are working on both batteries!!

Thanks for the help guys, probably one of the easiest fixes I ever had to do, thankfully.
OK, this makes no sense at all. A circuit breaker will not trip "due to voltage drop". A circuit breaker trips because more current is flowing through it than it is rated for. It's there in the first place to protect the boat's wiring from an overload and possible fire.

Replacing a tripped breaker also makes no sense unless it wouldn't reset. If that is the case, then replacing the battery had nothing to do with it.

But, if everything works now, you must be happy, and in the end, that's what is important.
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