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re-wiring and circuit protection (is this overkill??)

Old 02-20-2012, 11:22 AM
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Default re-wiring and circuit protection (is this overkill??)

Whats up everybody?

I have been working really hard all winter long on re-habbing my '74 Seacraft 20SF.
I have been doing a ton of reading and research on here, and other forums as well as a couple of books.

I am getting ready to order all of my electrical components and begin the re wire process.
Before I order anything, I just want to make sure I am getting the proper pieces to the puzzle.

My question is that of circuit protection (fuses and breakers), and having too many unnecessary ones which would cost more. I know they wouldn't hurt the system, i just dont know if they all are required.

Any help and comments on my wiring diagram would be very helpful.

I have zoomed in on two sections of the diagram so you can read the text.

Thanks in advance

UrbanAngler
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Old 02-20-2012, 04:27 PM
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Exact same set up that I had on my Yamaha jet boat, bullet proof.

I'm no electronics expert, but the inline fuses seem a little redundant as you're already protected at the fuse blocks.

If you were taking a direct run from the house battery to something like a stereo amp, the inline would be needed at the beginning of the run.

Last edited by BeachTyme; 02-20-2012 at 04:39 PM.
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Old 02-20-2012, 04:55 PM
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Well, I commend you on your design, but it is definitely overkill. First of all, you dont have anything that will need more than a 14 ga. wire at the maximum. Remember, 14 ga wire can carry 15 amps in most circumstances. All the 10 and 12 ga are just a waste of money and space. Also, ditch ANY glass fuses. They are more likely to corrode than a marine grade blade fuse.

Also, all the fuses coming off the battery feeding the multiple fuse panels is a waste.

Here is a simpler idea that will save you a lot of money and be just as reliable:

Take your house battery coming off the dual battery switch with a 6 or 8 gauge wire, though a 60 amp circuit breaker, directly to a Blue Seas 12 circuit blade fuse panel. Either with or without a ground bus. Then run a 14 ga wire directly to every accessory you want to run.

Then install a Yandina battery combiner between the #1 and #2 lugs of your battery switch and you are good to go! Connect your starting battery to #1 and your house battery to # 2 and leave the switch on #1 unless the cranking battery becomes defective.

Save about $1200 and get a simpler, more reliable system.
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Old 02-20-2012, 06:07 PM
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Thanks for the replies

I wasnt quite sure if seperate fuses were needed prior to the fused switches to protect the heavier guage wire that comes off the buss bar from the battery switch.

Also, I came up with the wire sizes by using the charts and calculators, while shooting for a 3% drop or less on all of my accessories. I guess a bit higher of a voltage drop will be fine on the bilge pumps and bait pump and wash down pump.

Any body got any other thoughts?
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Old 02-20-2012, 06:15 PM
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I have mine to install over the next month. My schematic is setup similar to the way xrayengineer explained.

Here is my diagram. Not quite as nice as yours.
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Last edited by Gmack; 02-20-2012 at 06:25 PM.
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Old 02-20-2012, 07:38 PM
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Gmack,
Why are you using 1/0 GA for the engine run? Even with the batts in the console, an F225 will be perfectly happy with 2 GA.
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Old 02-20-2012, 07:46 PM
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sorry to hijack the thread, but I got a question.

I need to add extra switches, and I don't have much space on the console. Right now I have 9 switches along with 9 pop-up breakers next to each switch. I'm gonna re-do the panel and I was thinking on ditching the breakers, and simply have switches thru a 12 or 14 position blade-fuse type panel. Any recommendations??

Thanks in advance.


Originally Posted by xrayengineer View Post
Well, I commend you on your design, but it is definitely overkill. First of all, you dont have anything that will need more than a 14 ga. wire at the maximum. Remember, 14 ga wire can carry 15 amps in most circumstances. All the 10 and 12 ga are just a waste of money and space. Also, ditch ANY glass fuses. They are more likely to corrode than a marine grade blade fuse.

Also, all the fuses coming off the battery feeding the multiple fuse panels is a waste.

Here is a simpler idea that will save you a lot of money and be just as reliable:

Take your house battery coming off the dual battery switch with a 6 or 8 gauge wire, though a 60 amp circuit breaker, directly to a Blue Seas 12 circuit blade fuse panel. Either with or without a ground bus. Then run a 14 ga wire directly to every accessory you want to run.

Then install a Yandina battery combiner between the #1 and #2 lugs of your battery switch and you are good to go! Connect your starting battery to #1 and your house battery to # 2 and leave the switch on #1 unless the cranking battery becomes defective.

Save about $1200 and get a simpler, more reliable system.
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Old 02-21-2012, 08:06 AM
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Originally Posted by seabob4 View Post
Gmack,
Why are you using 1/0 GA for the engine run? Even with the batts in the console, an F225 will be perfectly happy with 2 GA.
Sorry to derail.

Long story ....... but the first 215 I bought was hit by an eighteen wheeler in NC when I was towing it back. The boat was "totaled". It needed a re-wire and the previous owner had bought all of the wire from geniunedealz.com but didn't complete it. He bought about 20' of red and black 1/0 for the battery wire so that's what I'm going to use for this one!

I put the 30 amp breaker on the run to the e-box since I have that breaker and it will be run thru the t-top pipe work. Figured it would be safe since it's running thru metal pipe and could short out. Do you think it's necessary?

If you have any other advice or critics I'd appreciate it!

Gary
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Old 02-22-2012, 03:00 AM
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Originally Posted by UrbanAngler View Post
I wasnt quite sure if seperate fuses were needed prior to the fused switches to protect the heavier guage wire that comes off the buss bar from the battery switch.
I believe you are asking effectively the same question that I am pondering..... you show a fuse on the primary feed from the house battery, which is protecting that run of wire. It appears the reason you are proposing to fuse the links after the +12 bus bar that feed the sub-panels is due to the fact that you are fanning the house battery lead out at the +12 bus bar, and dropping gauge at that point - correct?

I have a similar situation - I'll have a main feed coming from the house battery aft up to the console where it will feed a fuse panel (which will feed some various loads) and also two switch panels (which have breakers ahead of the switches, feeding other loads).

If I were to use a bus bar to fan out (or daisy chain from one panel to the next), AND used the same gauge wire going to the fuse block and the switch panels as comes in (likely to be 4 or 6 ga so still somewhat reasonably pliable), there is not a need for any additional fusing like you show in your diagram? However, if I were to drop gauge on any wire feeding one of the panels, then that wire should be fused within 7" "downstream: of the transition point ....

DC Wiring Experts - Is this understanding correct?

This is what I was currently planning to do.... do the fan-out through a fuse block - effectively the same as you are showing.....



Originally Posted by UrbanAngler View Post
Also, I came up with the wire sizes by using the charts and calculators, while shooting for a 3% drop or less on all of my accessories. I guess a bit higher of a voltage drop will be fine on the bilge pumps and bait pump and wash down pump.
Nice to see someone else being as anal with their planning

Last edited by mwardncsu; 02-22-2012 at 03:13 AM.
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Old 04-20-2012, 08:39 PM
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I'm re/cleaning up wiring and have pondered the same question. The most important thing about fuse protection is you are protecting the wire from shorting and heating up until a fire starts. I've found these links helpful: http://bluesea.com/viewresource/96
and
www.abycinc.org/committees/.%5CE-11.pdf

http://circuitwizard.bluesea.com/

I've a less than 3' run from my bus bar to my fuse panel but abyc states that run must be protectected with in 7 " of the battery or source or in conduit and protected no longer than (going by memory) 40" or so. seems like overkill in a bay boat cc but if "it can go wrong, it will"
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