Notices

Any Pics of a Bluesea ACR Installed?

Old 10-11-2011, 08:12 AM
  #1  
Senior MemberCaptains Club Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Aston, PA/Sea Isle, NJ
Posts: 231
Default Any Pics of a Bluesea ACR Installed?

I'm ready to order a Bluesea Add a Battery for my boat. It's a single F150 with two Sears AGM's on an EdgeWater 188cc.

All the parts are within a few feet from one another in the console...so, I'm thinking I can get by with just a few feet of new #6 wire for the ACR. I'm confused about the real need for the 80 amp fuse though. I'm concerned about safety, but I'm thinking fusing may be overkill?

Is there an easy way to do this? Some sort of inline fuse on the cable perhaps?

Any pictures of a similar installation would really help, thanks!
Mellow Yellow is offline  
Old 10-11-2011, 09:54 AM
  #2  
Admirals Club Admiral's Club Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 11,654
Default

I have one, I didn't fuse mine. Where did you see in the instructions that you need a fuse? Maybe I missed that? If it does need a fuse you can get a blue seas 5503 fuse block and fuse, not too hard to install.
VanW is offline  
Old 10-11-2011, 10:04 AM
  #3  
Senior MemberCaptains Club Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Aston, PA/Sea Isle, NJ
Posts: 231
Default

The pdf instructions on line appear to call for an 80 amp fuse. As I understand it, the fuse is primarily for protection of the wire and not the component.

Looks like adding a fuse/breaker would mean mounting another component and an additional wire. That's why I asked about an in-line type of fuse which I don't think exists for a cable and fuse that large.

I'm all for doing it the easier and less expensive way as long as it's reasonably safe. Total length from battery to ACR would be less than three feet.
Mellow Yellow is offline  
Old 10-11-2011, 10:05 AM
  #4  
Admirals Club Admiral's Club Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Plymouth Ma.
Posts: 8,036
Default

ABYC requires circut protection within 7" of a voltage source exept on starter cables after a switch. that being said, if the cables from the switch to the ACR are short, and they are not next to any source of ground then use common sense. the last issue with not fusing is if, one batterey becomes internally shorted AND the ACR becomes stuck closed, then you would have a dangerous situation. I have installed them without circut protection when I can mount the ACR directly next to the selector switch and use the switch studs for connection.
CMEBoston is offline  
Old 10-11-2011, 10:19 AM
  #5  
Senior MemberCaptains Club Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: North Charleston, SC USA
Posts: 22,073
Default

Originally Posted by Mellow Yellow View Post
The pdf instructions on line appear to call for an 80 amp fuse. As I understand it, the fuse is primarily for protection of the wire and not the component..
Do you care if the wire melts, starts a fire, and burns your boat to the waterline? With you in it?

Fuses and circuit brealers are called "overcurrent protection" and just like in your home or business, are used to prevent overloading the wires or cables and having them overheat and possibly cause a fire.

If the instructions call for a fuse or circuit breaker, install the fuse or circuit breaker and make sure you understand where in the circuit it is to be installed.

If you don't understand, call in a pro.
rwidman is offline  
Old 10-11-2011, 11:26 AM
  #6  
nsh
Senior MemberCaptains Club Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: USA
Posts: 3,400
Default

So, fuse or no fuse, just curious what route you are going to take.
nsh is offline  
Old 10-11-2011, 11:52 AM
  #7  
Senior MemberCaptains Club Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Aston, PA/Sea Isle, NJ
Posts: 231
Default

Been looking around some more and a terminal block connection

http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs...classNum=11287

with a terminal fuse

http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs...classNum=11287

seems like a safe and easy way to go.

Comments?
Mellow Yellow is offline  
Old 10-11-2011, 11:54 AM
  #8  
Senior MemberCaptains Club Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: North Charleston, SC USA
Posts: 22,073
Default

Before you elect to eliminate the fuse, try this experiment. Wear eye protection and leather gloves. Do this outdoors and not in a car or boat.

Connect a two foot long piece of #6 cable to a battery connector and connect it to one terminal of a fully charged 12 volt marine or auto battery. Now holding the other, stripped end of the canbe with a pair of pliers or other protection, press it hard against the other battery terminal. Hold it there if you dare.

Now, do you think a fuse on your boat is a good idea or not?
rwidman is offline  
Old 10-11-2011, 11:55 AM
  #9  
Senior MemberCaptains Club Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: North Charleston, SC USA
Posts: 22,073
Default

Originally Posted by Mellow Yellow View Post
Been looking around some more and a terminal block connection

http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs...classNum=11287

with a terminal fuse

http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs...classNum=11287

seems like a safe and easy way to go.

Comments?
That will work.
rwidman is offline  
Old 10-11-2011, 11:58 AM
  #10  
Senior MemberCaptains Club Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Aston, PA/Sea Isle, NJ
Posts: 231
Default

OK!

Fuses win!

thanks
Mellow Yellow is offline  
Old 10-11-2011, 12:07 PM
  #11  
Admirals Club Admiral's Club Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Plymouth Ma.
Posts: 8,036
Default

Those terminal fuses will not allow for proper terminal tourqe. Use a thermal breaker, that way if you do have a problem you dont have to carry spares JMHO
CMEBoston is offline  
Old 10-12-2011, 01:05 PM
  #12  
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 2
Default

Originally Posted by Mellow Yellow View Post
I'm ready to order a Bluesea Add a Battery for my boat. It's a single F150 with two Sears AGM's on an EdgeWater 188cc.

All the parts are within a few feet from one another in the console...so, I'm thinking I can get by with just a few feet of new #6 wire for the ACR. I'm confused about the real need for the 80 amp fuse though. I'm concerned about safety, but I'm thinking fusing may be overkill?

Is there an easy way to do this? Some sort of inline fuse on the cable perhaps?

Any pictures of a similar installation would really help, thanks!
Wiring diagram included with blue sea shows cable runs from batteries to ACR. In this diagram fuses are placed close to batteries as possible protecting wire runs from any possibility of short to ground. Documentation on the bluesea site states fuses are intended to protect the wire.

My opinion better approach is very short cable runs from switch to ACR rather than batteries to ACR. This provides benefits over the stock diagram:

1. Less wire assuming ACR is placed closer to switch than batteries.
2. When switch is off ACR does not draw constant 15ma parasitic load from batteries

When sizing wire and fuses with ACR you should be mindful of the worst case maximum current between batteries. If one battery is full, the other drained close to the 10.5v cuttoff and the ACR is switched on it is not only capacity of the alternator going into charging the battery it is also current from a fully charged battery making its way into the discharged battery. How much current is this worse case? Is your fuse and wire big enough to handle this load based on the size/draw from each battery?

In addition to protecting wire runs at least one fuse in ACR link between batteries:

1. Protects ACR from current loads in excess of the ACRs 150amp limit
2. Protects other battery from shorts
delphin is offline  

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off


Thread Tools
Search this Thread