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Re-wire Schematic Part 1 - Please Review/Critique

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Re-wire Schematic Part 1 - Please Review/Critique

Old 10-10-2011, 06:57 PM
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Default Re-wire Schematic Part 1 - Please Review/Critique

About to start the re-wire of my boat. When I decided to tackle the project on my own I also decided it would be well laid out before starting. I found this software online to draw it up, but only have a 7 day trial so need to finish up the schematics quick! I'm breaking the schematic down into 3 parts. 1 - Main or Console 2 - T-top electronic box & 3 - bilge or rear. This is my first attempt at this so I'm sure it's not the best you've seen, but I don't think it's terrible.

Please take a look and let me know if you see any mistakes or critiques. Thanks!

Last edited by Gmack; 11-04-2011 at 05:06 PM.
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Old 10-10-2011, 07:14 PM
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Can you post a bigger image?
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Old 10-10-2011, 07:33 PM
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Sorry I'm trying
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Old 10-10-2011, 09:14 PM
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Hold the "Ctrl" key and tap the "+/=" key until the page is zoomed in to your liking. Hold the "Ctrl" key and tap the "_/-" key to zoom out.
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Old 10-11-2011, 08:44 AM
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It appears you are running 4 awg from each battery to the MBSS and the ground bus, and then 1/0 to the engines starter? This is probably wrong, you need to do 1/0 from the MBSS to each battery as well. The case where this may work is if there was a long run to the engine but very short run to the MBSS. I think 4 awg is too small anyway though, but I am not terribly familiar with outboards electrical requirements.

The way the ACR is setup, you only really need two breakers if the battery cables are very long. You can avoid this by running the ACR directly off the two terminals of the MBSS if there is room, and use a single breaker to protect the ACR.

It also seems you've fused your main panel, plus two 8 awg feeds to other locations, with a single 30A breaker... this does not sound sufficient, I believe you'll want a much larger breaker and to have the two 8 awg runs come off your fuse panel, or something like a BlueSea SafetyHub 100 which supports 4 larger fuses.

It would take a bit more info about your setup and the locations/actual items present and future to be able to help more.
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Old 10-11-2011, 09:13 AM
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You're feeding a 1/0 with a 4GA. Other way around. If you are running O/Bs, you need not use 1/0, you can run 4GA if the batteries are in the bilge, 2GA if they are in the console. Vrods, however, need 1GA

Sorry, didn't pay attention. Yam 225 4S...
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Old 10-11-2011, 07:27 PM
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Originally Posted by TheLucille View Post
It appears you are running 4 awg from each battery to the MBSS and the ground bus, and then 1/0 to the engines starter? This is probably wrong, you need to do 1/0 from the MBSS to each battery as well. The case where this may work is if there was a long run to the engine but very short run to the MBSS. I think 4 awg is too small anyway though, but I am not terribly familiar with outboards electrical requirements.
The batteries and switch/ACR (I'm guessing MBSS has something to do with the switch) will be in the center console. Only a couple of feet apart. The 1/0 is not necessary, but I have it (long story) so that what's going to be used for the long (12' -15') run to the outboard). I think 4 awg should be OK for everything else.

Originally Posted by TheLucille View Post
The way the ACR is setup, you only really need two breakers if the battery cables are very long. You can avoid this by running the ACR directly off the two terminals of the MBSS if there is room, and use a single breaker to protect the ACR.
Are you saying instead of running 4 awg from the ACR to the batteries to instead run the 4 awg from the ACR to the battery switch?

Originally Posted by TheLucille View Post
It also seems you've fused your main panel, plus two 8 awg feeds to other locations, with a single 30A breaker... this does not sound sufficient, I believe you'll want a much larger breaker and to have the two 8 awg runs come off your fuse panel, or something like a BlueSea SafetyHub 100 which supports 4 larger fuses.
You are right. The breaker probably is too small. I had a 30A, but looking at my total loads it's not enough.


Originally Posted by TheLucille View Post
It would take a bit more info about your setup and the locations/actual items present and future to be able to help more.
T-Top E-Box (8awg +/- feeds to blue seas 6 position fuse panal) anchor light 1 amp, spreader lights 1 amp, horn, vhf 1-5 amp, ext speaker 1.5 amp & radio 5 amp

Console/Bigle/Rear of boat (blue seas 12 position fuse panal & 8 awg common - to bilge) washdown 10 amp, 2 x bilge pumps 4.8 amp (each), live well 2.8 amp, underwater lights 2 amps, bow light, 1 amp, dept finder 1 amp & gps 1 amp

Also forgot the stero amp will need to come off the main + & - bus. It's a small amp with a 33 amp draw at full power.

Last edited by Gmack; 10-12-2011 at 11:40 AM.
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Old 10-12-2011, 02:16 PM
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The breakers on either side of your ACR are totally optional when everything is real close like that. You can call Blue Sea to confirm since it is contrary to their instructions.
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Old 10-12-2011, 05:35 PM
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Thanks Jim
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