Notices
Marine Electronics Forum

battery tray installation question

Old 09-10-2011, 02:56 PM
  #1  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location:
Posts: 822
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default battery tray installation question

I want to take out my 3 low grade batteries and put in 3 new blue top optimas and new trays. It looks like the current trays (which are broke) were just screwed into the bottom of the battery compartment. I will likely have to remove the old trays and screw in the new trays. Do i just screw these to the floor as well? Any particualr screws or length that i need? My other option is to take it to the dealer nearby.. just not sure how difficult this job is.
Thanks
Old 09-10-2011, 03:00 PM
  #2  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Weeki Wachee (home of the mermaids), FL
Posts: 11,691
Likes: 0
Received 15 Likes on 14 Posts
Default

Remove the old trays. Fill the mounting holes with silicone. Locate the new trays and mark the mounting hole locations. Drill new holes. Shoot silicone in new mounting holes. Secure trays with appropriate length #10 Pan head screws..........done.

You don't need a dealer or marina...
Old 09-10-2011, 03:12 PM
  #3  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location:
Posts: 822
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

Originally Posted by seabob4 View Post
Remove the old trays. Fill the mounting holes with silicone. Locate the new trays and mark the mounting hole locations. Drill new holes. Shoot silicone in new mounting holes. Secure trays with appropriate length #10 Pan head screws..........done.

You don't need a dealer or marina...
Will typical outdoor silicone work or is there a marine type silicone? How far should the screws pentrate the floor? Im not sure how thick the floor is but i might get an idea when i remove the old trays.
Old 09-10-2011, 05:05 PM
  #4  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Weeki Wachee (home of the mermaids), FL
Posts: 11,691
Likes: 0
Received 15 Likes on 14 Posts
Default

I use GE Premium Waterproof Silicone, about $8/cartridge at HD...

The screws you remove? Match them to the new ones...

This type of thing isn't rocket science, you know...
Old 09-12-2011, 07:20 AM
  #5  
Senior MemberCaptains Club Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: North Charleston, SC USA
Posts: 22,073
Likes: 0
Received 22 Likes on 22 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by seabob4 View Post
This type of thing isn't rocket science, you know...
There are rockets and there are ROCKETS.

Use a stop on the drill bit so you don't drill through the hull. Set it at the length of the screws minus the thickness of the part you are attaching to the hull. Actually, set it 1/16" or so less.

For someone who has done this a time or two, a piece of tape on the bit works as a drill stop as long as you can see where you're drilling.
Old 09-12-2011, 09:22 AM
  #6  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location:
Posts: 822
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

Good idea. I pulled a screw out over the weekend and they go down 3/4 of an inch. I plan to only go 1/2 inch with my installation.
Old 09-13-2011, 04:39 AM
  #7  
Senior MemberCaptains Club Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: North Charleston, SC USA
Posts: 22,073
Likes: 0
Received 22 Likes on 22 Posts
Default

When you go to seal the old holes, holding a tube of caulk over the hole and squeezing won't get caulk into the hole because air will be trapped in the hole. Use a toothpick or such to put some caulk into the hole, then cover the top with caulk.
Old 09-13-2011, 07:10 AM
  #8  
Admirals Club Admiral's Club Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 442
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
Default

Better yet find some wood dowels thaks a snug fit (hard wood if you can) and mix up some epoxy and glue the dowel in the old screw hole, cut and drive slightly below level with surface coat with a cap of epoxy to seal top of dowel from moisture. Do it once the right way and never have to do it over...If it were my boat, I'd clean the surface as well as I could effect the old hole repair and repaint the area to match...which would then lead to me making new battery leads ( #2 welding cable) with soldered lugs with a layer of adhesive heat shrink. But thats just me,,,
Old 09-13-2011, 08:56 AM
  #9  
Senior MemberCaptains Club Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: North Charleston, SC USA
Posts: 22,073
Likes: 0
Received 22 Likes on 22 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by westiemax View Post
Better yet find some wood dowels thaks a snug fit (hard wood if you can) and mix up some epoxy and glue the dowel in the old screw hole, cut and drive slightly below level with surface coat with a cap of epoxy to seal top of dowel from moisture. Do it once the right way and never have to do it over...If it were my boat, I'd clean the surface as well as I could effect the old hole repair and repaint the area to match...which would then lead to me making new battery leads ( #2 welding cable) with soldered lugs with a layer of adhesive heat shrink. But thats just me,,,
westiemax, You were doing fine untill you got to the part about welding cable and soldering. Both are "less than optimal" on a boat.

Boat cable is different from welding cable because the conditions are different. Boat cable should be used for boat wiring.

Thr ABYC does permit soldering for battery cable lugs, but it's not the best way to do it and the average boater does not have the equipment, skill, or experience to make a good solder connection, especially with large gauge cables. Crimping is far more reliable.
Old 09-13-2011, 09:48 AM
  #10  
Admirals Club Admiral's Club Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 442
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
Default

I beg to differ...#2 welding cable is about the same guage at reg battery stuff but has many more strands and I agreed the soldering is a bear. but I've had mine in service for the last 10 years on the Searay I just sold and its the same shape as the day I installed it...

http://www.mcmaster.com/#welding-cable/=e1nxae

if done properly ( operative word) it will remain supple for a long time and if heat shrunk properly it will remain water tight for years...
Old 09-13-2011, 11:02 AM
  #11  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location:
Posts: 822
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

I'm not going to mess with the cables, they look fine.

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off


Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service - Do Not Sell My Personal Information -

Copyright © 2018 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.