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blue seas switch panel (need more output)

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blue seas switch panel (need more output)

Old 09-09-2011, 12:27 PM
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Default blue seas switch panel (need more output)

Is there any way I can bump up the output on this? Right now it seems to say it can handle 45 amps but I have a few large loads I'd like to put on it. The wires on it are pretty small like 14 gauge. This is what I have. http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?...449&id=1355726

What I want to put on it if possible is

Rule 3800 livewell pump (15.5/20.0/25) amps @ 12v/13.6/fuse size
Rule 1600 livewell pump (8 amps?)
Raymarine DSM 300 (maybe, if it works on it) 8 amps
Raymarine Radar 15 amps
Raymarine X10 Autopilot 15 amps

What I was thinking I could do is break it into two sections by running two larger positive wires to it and changing the wires on the inside between the switches if they are too small.

I'm sure some people will say to buy a different panel or an extra one, but that's not an option for me.
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Old 09-09-2011, 01:58 PM
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I did exactly what you are suggesting, kinda. I have a 6 switch panel, and 5 of the items are just normal 5 amp type stuff (GPS receiver, NMEA network, VHF...). But my last items is my AP. The AP has a big draw due to the large hydrolic power hungy pump. So what I did, was disconnext the 6th switch from the other switches power lead which is just looped from one switch to the next..., and ran to the AP switch it's own power lead, with heavier wire and properly fused.

Works just find, and all is safe and compliant. That limit is strictly the limit that 14 gauge "loop" wire can hanlde...


One suggestion though, get the panel with BREAKERS on it, instead of the fuses. Who want's fuses??

http://bluesea.com/category/62/27/products/8373

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Old 09-09-2011, 02:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Birdman View Post
I did exactly what you are suggesting, kinda. I have a 6 switch panel, and 5 of the items are just normal 5 amp type stuff (GPS receiver, NMEA network, VHF...). But my last items is my AP. The AP has a big draw due to the large hydrolic power hungy pump. So what I did, was disconnext the 6th switch from the other switches power lead which is just looped from one switch to the next..., and ran to the AP switch it's own power lead, with heavier wire and properly fused.

Works just find, and all is safe and compliant. That limit is strictly the limit that 14 gauge "loop" wire can hanlde...


One suggestion though, get the panel with BREAKERS on it, instead of the fuses. Who want's fuses??

http://bluesea.com/category/62/27/products/8373

Whatever you do, keep in mind that there is the same amount of current flowing in the negative portion of the circuit as the positive side. I'm assuming that there is a negative buss somewhere that connects back to the battery. Be sure it has the same capacity as the positive wire or wires.
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Old 09-09-2011, 02:53 PM
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Hmm, I just have a buss bar type thing with the screws in it. Can that be overloaded? I don't have any info on it as it came with the boat....
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Old 09-09-2011, 02:56 PM
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I do have an empty one sitting here but don't have any info on it either, just happens to have 5 screws. I guess I could install it. Then I can run a 4 ga wire to the battery negative.
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Old 09-09-2011, 03:02 PM
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Originally Posted by VanW View Post
Hmm, I just have a buss bar type thing with the screws in it. Can that be overloaded? I don't have any info on it as it came with the boat....
I'm assuming it's the negative buss bar. It can be over loaded, but you're not likely to overload it. What you need to do is make sure that the wire (black or yellow) between it and the negative terminal of the battery is not being overloaded. Normally, this won't happen because the manufacturer of the boat will have used a fuse or circuit breaker rated to protect the wire that was installed to supply power to the helm. The danger comes from when an owner or installer runs additional wires for high power accessories and neglects to run additional wires for the negative return, but connects the negative leads from these devices to the existing buss bar.

As for your panel, you can't really "bump" the capacity (you can do what Birdman did, but you need to understand what you are doing). You're far better off installing a panel that's rated for the intended load. Or, you can split the load between multiple panels.
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Old 09-09-2011, 03:05 PM
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Just make sure the switches that come with the panel have a 25A rating at 12V.
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Old 09-09-2011, 03:13 PM
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The switches are 20 amp max and so are the fuse holders. No one item will be more than 20 amps.
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Old 09-09-2011, 06:54 PM
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I'd say put in an additional panel with the right sized wiring. Why Gomer up something that can burn your boat down? There are some things where over kill is preferential to being killed.
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