offshore3144

They dont include any hydraulic fittings or tubing. You will have to get that locally or from Teleflex. Also your on off switch and breaker if you dont have a accessory switch available you will have to purchase. Mark

Getn Busy Livn

Well I figured I'd post an update on the installation of my AP12. Started yesterday by "planning the location" for all the components and I think everything is going to fit nicely in my console.

I started by mounting the Pump, Course Computer and Compass on Starboard material for easier installation. Within about hour and half I had all three components mounted and ready for electrical connection to Course Computer.

After work today I managed to get the Rudder Feedback unit installed, wire run and connected to the Course Computer. Thanks to Offshore and Thom for the great suggestions on the stainless steel hose clamps

Tomorrow night I hope to install the Control Head and get that connected. Then all that remains is to hook-up the Hydraulics, hook-up the Course Computer to my Panel Switch/Breaker, Bleed the system and then take her out for the shakedown / set-up cruise.

So far --- it's going very smoothly! Hopefully getting the hydraulics hooked-up will be a smooth!

offshore3144

Sounds like it is going well. Do what Thom said about priming the pump. add fluid to the helm steering unit.Get a 12volt Battery and take the two leads from the pump and alternate leads from - to+ foward then reverse to prime the pump then continue to fill the system. you will probrally need two people for this part. Mark

dburbage

I'll also be doing an AP-12 install in a few weeks and have this question: How do you operate the "bleeder nipples" on the Sea Star hydraulic unit? I've never done any hydraulic work so am totally unfamiliar with them.

For what it's worth, I bought my AP-12 on e-Bay new from Boat US at a good price; $850. You might try that if you are in the market.

offshore3144

dburbage,
It is pretty simple. First prime your ap pump then turn your motor port or starboard you will probrally have to do this by hand because your system is almost empty. Then if your motor is turned hard to port then attach a piece of clear hose about three ft long to the starboard bleeder and put the end in a clear container. Open the starboard bleeder about a half a turn and start to fill the helm unit.Important once you start do not let the helm unit level get below 1/2 inch from the top. As you fill turn the steering wheel back and forth as you do this you will start to see fluid exit the bleed valve with lots of bubbles. As the fluid removes the air the Hydraulic fluid will quit blowing bubbles in the fluid in the clear container make sure that the clear hose stays in the fluid in the container so no air will back up into the system. When you dont see any more bubbles exiting the hose while you are filling the system and turning the steering wheel that side of the system is done tighten the bleeder while the fluid is still in the hose. remove hose and do the port bleeder the same way. Turn the motor by hand hard to starboard and repeat. Your system is now ready to go. Mark
Here is a link to teleflex bleeding PDF incase I left something out!!! http://www.seastarsteering.com/PDFs/296784-AB_47-51.pdf

dburbage

Thanks, Mark! So the Sea Star bleeder nipple is a screw out plug? I just unscrew it a bit with a wrench and the fluid begins to leak out? Do I remove the plug entirely or can it bleed with the plug just loose?

Sorry to be such a nit-picker, but my boat is 50 miles away and I don't want to be missing any tools when I start.

Devar

offshore3144

On my bleeders you just loosen them around 1/2 turn to 3/4 turn and the hydraulic fluid will start to flow. There is a nipple on the end to attach a hose to. I like clear hose so you can see if there is air still in the fluid. Sometimes there is no bleeder fitting installed you might have to order them. There is a picture of one below. Mark

N3NFX

Odered my AP12H today from Jim, hopefully I'll have it to play with tomorrow and the weekend!

dburbage

Mark,

My bleeder valves appears to have a rubber cover (I'm looking at a picture of it), so I guess I just remove that, slip the hose over the end and turn it as you suggested until I get a flow. Does this sound correct?

dburbage

offshore3144

dburbage,
Yes just remove the rubber protection cap and you will slip your piece of hose over the nipple you might need a small hose clamp to hold it in place. Mark

dburbage

Mark, your posts have been extremely helpful! Many thanks!

Devar Burbage

N3NFX

Hey Devar,

Hopefully mine will be here today! How did the feedback sensor come setup? Looking at the instruction manual, looks like there is a threaded balljoint on the end to attach it to the engine?? Looks like what I need (for a hookup to SeaStar HC5345) may be an option?

Rob

Getn Busy Livn

If you have the Seastar 5345 Ram you'll need to order a different mounting bracket (called something like LFK Seastar Kit) from a SIMRAD dealer. I think I paid $58 for it from a dealer in Tampa. Hope that helps!

N3NFX

Yep, that's what I am seeing as I read..Thanks Getn Busy! Any trouble bleeding yours?

offshore3144

I have had to get the same kit. I am doing a Honda 225 repower with the 5345 cylinder as we type and had to order the same kit.( Right when you get everything perfect!!) I will follow up when the repower is done. Mark

Getn Busy Livn

I got the system all set-up and ready to calibrate. Unfortunately the weather is going to be awful this weekend so the "on water" set-up and test is going to have to wait until this system moves out.

Can't wait to try this out! Thanks to Offshore and Thom for the great advice!!!!!!!!! I'll let you know how the shakedown goes.

offshore3144

Getn Busy Livn
Hope all went smoothly!! You can do the rudder limits part of the commisioning
off the water. All you will have to in the water is the heading sensor calibration and then trying your AP12h out for the proper tracking. Let us know how it goes. Good Luck Mark

N3NFX

Well I figured I'd post an update on the installation of my AP12. Unit arrived one day service from Byowner Jim (thanks Jim), had most of where I wanted to install already figured out. On Saturday mounted the compass and control unit. Sunday ran most of the wiring, installed the RRU and pulled the steering wheel and hoses, had a few issues there. For me, it looks like the hydraulics are going to be the toughest part. My local hydraulic shop didn't have what I needed, ended up going to a farm equipment place, these guys were more then willing to help me out. Ended up substituting a few connectors with galvanize, all in all, 3 - 6 foot hoses with all the connectors $90
Next step will be to mount the pump and run the hoses...

endoman

You WILL regret that decision down the road.

Thom

Here's what you want to do about those hoses. First off go ahead and use them. Do your install and go through the orientation run. Run the boat for a day and of course use the auto pilot a lot as you play with it to learn it. When you get home check for leaks - and that was my point, make sure its not leaking but don't wait to long, and then buy yourself a small can of 3M Scotchkote Electrical Coating - No. 43906. Your local friendly Lowe's or Home Depot will have it in the electrical department. Paint your fittings and the first inch or so of your hose with this stuff. The applicator lid will have a small brush on it. Try not to drip any more of this stuf than you have to and don't wear anything you care about - this stuff is worse than 5200. The stuff will set up to a rubbery consistancy after a while, it will not come off and no salt will penetrate it to start the corrosion process. You'll never get another wrench on that fitting though, vice grips or a pipe wrench maybe, but not a tubing wrench or even a conventional open end or adjustable without it slipping. Seal them with this stuff and you'll probably never have to replace them. Leave them like they are and you can figure 5 years.

Thom